Dlux Fab cvd's?

[xwoop]

Hi all,

Just got the Dlux Fab Yeti CVD's (open diff version). Super strong and quality feeling about these parts, but got into a bit of an argument with Dlux while the cvd set I got was way too long to fit. He claims I'm the first to have any problems (which I believe) but I'm also 100% sure there is a problem with the parts (shaft+cup+cvd) total length I got. Tested the cvds with complete stock setup Yeti front end, stock (except RPM arms) Exo, and my custom build score with metal concepts arms and VP bulkhead and VP caster/steering parts. With all these Tires lean outward and cvd being tight all the way in the cup you can just have the tires upright, but any suspension travel will make the cvd pin bind too deep into the bottom of the cup and push the cvd outward form the cup, most probably breaking the pin or cup or causing some other problems in the long run. Having the tires lean a tiny bit outward and having a shock tower extra part to not let Yeti bottom out these would work....but looking for maintaining full suspension travel and possibly the tires leaning inside a tiny bit I just couldn't do it.

I managed to make the CVD's work by dremelling the shafts quite a lot and cutting the cup set screw shorter (to fit all the way in to the cup screw hole) to allow the cups sit way deeper actually inside the bulkhead and just a hair away from the diff cup outer bearing. With VP bulkhead the cups fit inside the bulkhead nice, but with the stock bulkhead you need to enlarge the output hole in the bulkhead.

Still, this bothers me not knowing what is different here. To find out I hope you could reply this post if you have a Yeti with those open diff version Dlux CVD's and give me some measurements. I need to find out why yours work without mods but mine didn't.

1) the dlux shafts and cups installed the distance between cup end to cup end? Mine was 67mm before the mod, and now after dremelling the shafts it is 63,4mm and working all good. 3.6mm is quite a difference. I want to know do other who have these working ok the distance 67mm or closer to the 63.4mm I needed to make these fit.
2) The gap size between the cup and the diff cup outer bearing? As from DLUX there was a significant cap between the bearing and the cup. After the mod there barely is a gap. How is it with your set?
3) Total length of the CVD part from the end of the dogbone end to where the first bearing starts (inside (closer to bulkhead) end of the bearing).

10+ hours of work and 150USD in these CVD's now, and I want to know why they didn't fit. so please help me out and give me some measurement numbers. Thanks for your help in advance.

pics:
1) Cup & shaft installed prior to shaft modifications
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2v7ihi0y246badh/IMG_1835.JPG?dl=0

2) Shaft before and after the mod
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fd721qwfp3rv7pm/IMG_1846.JPG?dl=0

 

[xwoop]

Anyone? There must a 100 pairs of these out there.

cup end to cup end measurement? Easy to take without disassembling anything.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I don't have these CVDs so, unfortunately, I can't help you. But I absolutely hate companies that argue with their customers and tell you that your issue is the first they've ever had. It's usually a lie.

 

[magic_yeti]

i also don't have them. but the original was edit:94mm, later changed by axial to edit:92mm.
Had some issue with the incision cvd's, now i use the gpm cvd's.
edit corrected length

 

[DukeMinnix]

also don't have them in my yeti, sorry I can't be of assistance.

 

[84yoda]

I just measured mine and just the shaft part he makes, pin to pin is 87mm. I haven't got mine installed yet though, so I'm not sure if I'll run into the same problem. But I doubt he changed the length so they all should be the same.

 

[xwoop]

Thanks all for you replies.

I'll be back home later today and I'll measure the shaft...even though I doubt there is any difference that'd anyway be something to see the shaft lengths match.

I used to have vanquish CVDs (or they called the VVD's), but the pins got all loose during first drive and destroyed an almost new Vanquish bulkhead :evil::evil: Only thing I noticed was why does this thing pull to the left even though I just adjusted steering.....10 seconds later lifted the car up and saw the pins had come out and carved the bulkhead holes way bigger on both sides. Vanquish did good customer service here and replaced the parts. Vanquish suspected this was due to the shafts being too long (or the the gap for them too short) and the pin bottoming out in the cup, but though it was tight, I did't notice it being too tight (means e.g at max suspension travel/droop while the pin is vertical the lower pin end might bottom out while the dogbone end is even touching the cup bottom)

there is definitely some negative magic in me buying high end Yeti CVD's....I was sure I did something wrong first, but after building a stock yeti front end from scratch and trying these out in several Exos as well all having the same problem I'm sure it just cannot be. One of those exo's I didn't even build my self, just bought it used. Only thing here would be how you build the diff cup.....but there really isn't a way to build it wrong that way that would put the cups/shafts too far apart from each other while still fitting it in the bulkhead.

And 84yoda, let us know when you decide to get those installed. And if you run into the same problem I had, modding the short shafts going in to the diff cup will help. By that I got the distance between cup ends from 67mm to 63,4mm. Mine runs now perfect, and full suspension travel in use, even the HR sway bar fits now without modification. Waiting to get a replacement pair of those shaft parts from dlux so I can take them to a real machinist (or actually a watch maker nearby) to do the mod properly....there is some room for improvement in quality of my own work with the basic home tools.

 

[xwoop]

i also don't have them. but the original was edit:94mm, later changed by axial to edit:92mm.
Had some issue with the incision cvd's, now i use the gpm cvd's.
edit corrected length

Yeah, and I think the exo original shaft 96mm. And I can fit that one in my yeti without problems. In the end it is the same front end with parts that are in play here. Nearest thing being different I think is the steering rack.

With the 96mm shafts, you just cannot use a thick rubber "cushion" piece in the cup, "bare" it fits all good.

With these Dlux cvds you get different cups, so you need to rebuild your diff with the new cups. They are stronger (bigger) and take the bigger pin in CVD that wouldn't fit the normal Yeti diff cup.

 

[Bombgoat]

Well at least you got your shafts. I ordered a set of yeti shafts for a b1b conversion I’m waiting to do and I paid $88USD for the part and shipping and an additional $25 CAD for import taxes and when I got home and opened the package it was just a 128GB flash drive. Emailed dlux. Claimed to be out of office for two weeks. Opened dispute with PayPal. One hour later dlux magically appears back in office and refunds my money without offering any sort of explanation as to whether it was a mistake or someone just trying to take advantage.

 

[xwoop]

Well at least you got your shafts. I ordered a set of yeti shafts for a b1b conversion I’m waiting to do and I paid $88USD for the part and shipping and an additional $25 CAD for import taxes and when I got home and opened the package it was just a 128GB flash drive. Emailed dlux. Claimed to be out of office for two weeks. Opened dispute with PayPal. One hour later dlux magically appears back in office and refunds my money without offering any sort of explanation as to whether it was a mistake or someone just trying to take advantage.

What???

Honestly even with the argument I had with Dlux he didn’t sound that kind of a guy who would so that. More like a guy who does high end products but might have difficult to take any critic about his products or possible mistakes.

Just went through my paypal and hop up orders for last couple of years and it is almost 20% of the parts that have not worked at all or worked only after some real modding of the parts. And this is only counting if the part doesn’t work with otherwise stock setup. And my orders have been 2/3 US manufactured parts.

So US manufacturers, you guys really need to improve your game, quality is not to my experience any better than with the Chinese parts.

 

[fr8cture]

I'm having the same issues. Is the only option to modify the included outputs?

 

[xwoop]

Yes. I bought a dremel to cut those down to appropriate length (kind of expensive cvd's.....the original price+dremel :lmao

Also received some replacements later on from Dlux, and those length pretty much matches the ones I cut myself. So definitely at least some the original output shafts are too long.

 

[Beest]

Over the years ive bought many parts from Dlux. Every single one needed some kind of work to make them work. Even fitting them to his own parts. They have served me well after making them fit, but it sux to have to cut on a brand new part.

Its kind of a catch 22 though, he is the only one who makes the parts. Im happy to have a supplier for them, but itd be cool if they fit better.

I dont mean this in any way to be a dig on Eric. He seems like a good dude.

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