After shedding some weight in my initial build, I was curious to how much my complete axle weighed. This is complete with the old Bully shafts, servo mount etc,.
9.5oz
9.5oz
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DLUX super build
- Thread starter Erik D_lux
- Start date
While doing the rebuild, I threw on some new servo horns. I cant even count how many clamping style horns I went through on this car. :roll: Hopefully these solve the problem.
These are the Air Wild horns. I also ordered some of the Hi Tec horns and they look just as good. I have been running a Hi Tec on my 2.2 and it has been treating me good. The Air Wild horns come threaded for 4-40 but I ran a 3mm tap through it and the threads look great.
Thread for more info:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/410433-long-non-clamping-servo-horn.html
These are the Air Wild horns. I also ordered some of the Hi Tec horns and they look just as good. I have been running a Hi Tec on my 2.2 and it has been treating me good. The Air Wild horns come threaded for 4-40 but I ran a 3mm tap through it and the threads look great.
Thread for more info:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/410433-long-non-clamping-servo-horn.html
I got it out for a couple of packs today. Only issue I had was that my front pinion mesh was too sloppy, everything else was great!
Having that much steering is pretty awesome. Its a whole new level though and much different than the 2.2. I quickly found that you can get into a lot of trouble if you go to full lock and bind the steering up. There is NO coming back, well, maybe if you had dual 7980's? It will take some serious attention to not get into those situations though.
Lots of full binding, jamming on the throttle trying to break the axles and they look good so far. I do need to either wait to drive this car more or I need some better batteries. Those Sky lipos DO NOT like 30* weather, at all. I think I will try my super fresh packs. The ones I tried to run today are pretty tired, even in the summer.
Another goal of rebuilding the car was to drop the ride height down some. Now that I am not fighting the shocks being into the motors and the motors being into the links, I am able to drop it down even more than I am now, if I want.
I moved the electronics into the chassis and moved the battery behind the gear box with one of my Berg battery mounts. I know this might be backwards thinking to some, and I could have found a spot on my front axle for the battery but, I just got away from a setup that had a lot of compromises and was hard to work around. I am looking forward to everything fitting perfectly and not fitting tolerances so badly. Sometimes, IMO, things being in the "ideal" spot are not ideal. Overall, I am pretty happy with the changes thus far.
Couple shots of the day:
Having that much steering is pretty awesome. Its a whole new level though and much different than the 2.2. I quickly found that you can get into a lot of trouble if you go to full lock and bind the steering up. There is NO coming back, well, maybe if you had dual 7980's? It will take some serious attention to not get into those situations though.
Lots of full binding, jamming on the throttle trying to break the axles and they look good so far. I do need to either wait to drive this car more or I need some better batteries. Those Sky lipos DO NOT like 30* weather, at all. I think I will try my super fresh packs. The ones I tried to run today are pretty tired, even in the summer.
Another goal of rebuilding the car was to drop the ride height down some. Now that I am not fighting the shocks being into the motors and the motors being into the links, I am able to drop it down even more than I am now, if I want.
I moved the electronics into the chassis and moved the battery behind the gear box with one of my Berg battery mounts. I know this might be backwards thinking to some, and I could have found a spot on my front axle for the battery but, I just got away from a setup that had a lot of compromises and was hard to work around. I am looking forward to everything fitting perfectly and not fitting tolerances so badly. Sometimes, IMO, things being in the "ideal" spot are not ideal. Overall, I am pretty happy with the changes thus far.
Couple shots of the day:
Del Monte
Y-Town Crawlers
Nice work on the new shafts "thumbsup"
I noticed the same thing driving Jeremy's rig at Nationals. I had the steering lock out on me a couple times throughout the day. It happened once on the big side hill bonus line on one of the top courses... it took some very scary wiggling and throttle blips to get it to work free :shock:
Nothing like having to figure a new car out,... at your first comp,.... which happens to be Nationals. LOL
At least its a very beneficial quirk.
At least its a very beneficial quirk.
Nimyad
Quarry Creeper
Dang, so much steering.
Thanks
Since I put in all of my http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chas...htweight-small-diameter-**cross-braces**.html the chassis became much more ridgid and I also lost some weight. Its was rigid enough that I got rid of the "X" brace in the back and also the windsheild brace in the front. Those two alone were almost 1oz. I also shaved some here and there.
5.5lb for the car
6.6lb RTR
I think the general consensus is that you want your rear caster to be neutral. I like mine to have some caster in the same direction as the front axle though.
Having the rear with caster in the opposite direction really does screw up your plans for steering angle. It makes it eat the links even more.
Having the rear with caster in the opposite direction really does screw up your plans for steering angle. It makes it eat the links even more.
While doing the rebuild, I threw on some new servo horns. I cant even count how many clamping style horns I went through on this car. :roll: Hopefully these solve the problem.
These are the Air Wild horns. I also ordered some of the Hi Tec horns and they look just as good. I have been running a Hi Tec on my 2.2 and it has been treating me good. The Air Wild horns come threaded for 4-40 but I ran a 3mm tap through it and the threads look great.
Thread for more info:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/410433-long-non-clamping-servo-horn.html
I've had those servo horns on at least 4 different supers, including the super I'm driving now. I think you have keepers now! "thumbsup"
Nice poser shot! At least plug the battery in so it looks real.
JeremyH
I wanna be Dave
:ror:
TedBull
Rock Crawler
Nice steering. Good work on those shafts.
I was able to find someone to trade me their HR large 2nd gears for my Berg 2nd gears and they are in the mail (Thanks Jeremey). Erik, thanks for giving me that Idea.
I look foward to the reduction in gearing, the tall gearing is my only complaint with the berg gearboxes on the super. Have you done any more work regarding the gearing? Still running 12t pinions and 45t Broods? I think I will also start with 12t and maybee swap my 45t HHK arms out and swap in my 45t GT arms.
I was able to find someone to trade me their HR large 2nd gears for my Berg 2nd gears and they are in the mail (Thanks Jeremey). Erik, thanks for giving me that Idea.
I look foward to the reduction in gearing, the tall gearing is my only complaint with the berg gearboxes on the super. Have you done any more work regarding the gearing? Still running 12t pinions and 45t Broods? I think I will also start with 12t and maybee swap my 45t HHK arms out and swap in my 45t GT arms.
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Cool. Glad you finally found a set.
I was forced to a bigger pinion since I put the servo between the motor and tube. I am pretty sure I can fit a 13t but I went with a 14t. Before I even switched out the tubes, I felt the 12t was too small.
I only have a couple of packs through this (thanks snow!) but the 14t and a 45t motor feel like they are very, very close to what I am looking for. I will probably try a 13t just for the knowledge.
Will you please do me a favor if you switch out those arms and let me know what you think? On my 2.2, I have HHK and GT arms and I prefer the HHK hands down, no competition. These 45t on my super are GT and I am pretty close to getting some HHKs for it. I think with the lower gearing I want a more powerful motor. Either that or I would even consider trying my 35t motors again with a 12t, not so sure I would try that with my 13t though. Anyway, I think the gearing is just about perfect or as close as you will get with the supers. Youre still driving 8" tall tires, 3s, and 540 cans.
I was forced to a bigger pinion since I put the servo between the motor and tube. I am pretty sure I can fit a 13t but I went with a 14t. Before I even switched out the tubes, I felt the 12t was too small.
I only have a couple of packs through this (thanks snow!) but the 14t and a 45t motor feel like they are very, very close to what I am looking for. I will probably try a 13t just for the knowledge.
Will you please do me a favor if you switch out those arms and let me know what you think? On my 2.2, I have HHK and GT arms and I prefer the HHK hands down, no competition. These 45t on my super are GT and I am pretty close to getting some HHKs for it. I think with the lower gearing I want a more powerful motor. Either that or I would even consider trying my 35t motors again with a 12t, not so sure I would try that with my 13t though. Anyway, I think the gearing is just about perfect or as close as you will get with the supers. Youre still driving 8" tall tires, 3s, and 540 cans.
TedBull
Rock Crawler
Good to know. I thought it looked like you switched up your axle setup and steering. Did you notch your tubes at all for the servo clearance or was it a clean fit with just the larger pinion?
I am still running the 8" rovers, 540 Brood Vapors with 45T HHK, and 3S. Also running FXR's and the drag brake is terrible. I am realy looking foward to this mod. Hopefully it will improve the drag brake enough that I dont feel like I need to switch to BRSL's.
Our next comp is Jan 20th. I probably wont have the truck back together untill right before the comp since my 7980's are at Hitec for service. I will let you know about the GT arms.
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I am still running the 8" rovers, 540 Brood Vapors with 45T HHK, and 3S. Also running FXR's and the drag brake is terrible. I am realy looking foward to this mod. Hopefully it will improve the drag brake enough that I dont feel like I need to switch to BRSL's.
Our next comp is Jan 20th. I probably wont have the truck back together untill right before the comp since my 7980's are at Hitec for service. I will let you know about the GT arms.
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You will have to notch the tube unless you want to run a 16-17t(?) pinion. My tubes are basically a copy of the 2.2 version. I am not 100% that they will hold up with the notch but I have beaten both my 2.2 and super to an inch of their lives, ruined just about every part except the tubes. I think they will be fine.
If you want, I can notch that tube of yours too, just let me know.
Seems like I hear a lot of complaints of the FXR and drag brakes. The Sidewinders were somewhat loose until I did the gear mod. Its a night and day difference. I didnt pay particular attention to it after changing pinions, that usually means that it was not any worse though.
If you want, I can notch that tube of yours too, just let me know.
Seems like I hear a lot of complaints of the FXR and drag brakes. The Sidewinders were somewhat loose until I did the gear mod. Its a night and day difference. I didnt pay particular attention to it after changing pinions, that usually means that it was not any worse though.
TedBull
Rock Crawler
I have run FXR's in all four of my crawlers and a scaler and I myself have had no previous issues. Even my 9+ pound 65:1 super bully with 8" tires had plenty of drag brake with the fxr's. It was not untill I swapped to Berg boxes that I had drag brake issues.
