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Do you think this will work?

AdamF

RCC Addict
Joined
Apr 6, 2004
Messages
1,673
Location
Cincinnati Ohio
Trying to think of a way to beef up the axle tubes and knuckles. Here's the plan. See if you can follow.

Take a stock plastic axle tube. Cut off the C part where the steering knuckle mounts. Cut off the little round bubble where the stock ladder bars mounted. Cut off the fins and the round part that mounts to the gearcase. Basically, your left with a nice smooth round tube that will hold the bearings and axle in place.

Then, find a peice of steel tubing that will fit snugly over your modified axle tube, so there is no play inside. On the end that mounts to the gearcase, cut out a circular peice of steel plate, cut a hole for the axle tube to fit in, weld it to the tube you slid over the plastic tube, drill holes to match the gearcase, and bolt it onto the gearcase.


Then, bend/weld up a C shaped peice of steel for the c part for the steering knuckle mount, and weld it to the tube.


This way, you have a steel c hub and axle tube, but still use the stock plastic axle tube to hold the axle and bearings in place. Should be very simple to make, and a big improvement in strength over stock. My only concern would be the added stress of the heavier stronger parts on the stock gearcase axle tube mounts. Hope they dont rip out or break the gearcase.

Then I would get some ALU steering knuckles.


So what do you guys think? I'm tired of breaking axle tubes and knuckles. Plus im tired of spending money on this clod. So this would be a cheap way to add a whole lot of strength.
 
I don't see any faults in the idea, but agree the next weak point is the gear case.

I'd add in the usual harassment about your driving, but I'm too tired.

Maybe it's the hefty truck you drive?
 
hmmm ... this is what i noticed with my gearcase setup. i kept breaking my knuckles so i bought a set of 4 aluminum from inetrc and broke my c hub. well my point is you make one place stronger the stress points move to a different location then you need to secure that too. using steel just adds more weight and may weaken the gearcase iteself ... id go the aluminum route.
 
I'm not going to spend $500 to get aluminum axles. I can do this for $20 in steel.

If I could weld aluminum I would use aluminum tube and plate instead, but I cant.
 
Adam,

I’m planning on doing something similar.

Here is what Ace did: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3382&highlight=axle

I built my version using aluminum & stock axle parts.

I wanted a wider stance, so mine is three inches wider than stock.

I’m working on a design for portal axles that is on hold until I finish my crawler for
Digler’s “World Crawler Build Off”. With the three inches of added width, I need to get the differential higher off the ground for better ground clearance. I need to get my 40’s Moab tires & wheels ordered so I can see if I’ll be able to tuck everything inside the wheel assembly. I’ll just make something similar to this design:


With the new 40’s, it should be possible to put this entire assembly inside the wheel.


Here’s a sneak picture of my axle.
I haven’t finished all the machining on some parts, and the axles, shocks, & shock mounts shown are just there for measuring/fitting purposes. Don’t ask questions on how I did it until after the Build-Off competition. I’ll have a little write-up on it then.
My final design will be to replace all plastic axle parts with aluminum.

 
AdamF said:
So what do you guys think? I'm tired of breaking axle tubes and knuckles. Plus im tired of spending money on this clod. So this would be a cheap way to add a whole lot of strength.

me like...

i hate clod axles simply because mine always break right at the c-hub. brittle plastic or not, its just weak as heck right there. i dont think you would break the gearcase half being that its a sturdy way to bolt up to it.

i would be very interested if you felt like making another set.
 
Alright, sounds like it should work.

Hardest part will be finding the correct inner diameter tubing to fit snug over the axle, and have it be thick enough to weld without burning through. I might have to learn how to braze. I wonder if brazing would be strong enough?
 
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