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Double triangulated 4 link?

Mule

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Aug 19, 2006
Messages
261
Location
CO burbs
Has anyone tried to do a double?
I'm a total newb to the rc crawling thing, but have lots of exp. with the real thing. I know the double on my buggy worked sooo much better than a std single triangulated 4 link w/ trac bar.

I'm waiting for my first TLT, I ordered it today..... I can't believe the old stuff is bing used on the rc rigs. I worked in a hobby shop back in the late 80s and raced a 10 in 85.
I'm pissed though. I just bought a tmaxx and then found this stuff. $350 wasted. Go fast stuff just doesn't compare.
Greg
 
Most of what I see is a triangulated upper w/ a straight to slightly off angle lower. A true triangulated lower would come together like the arms do on the axle - only on the chassis mounted to a bar running from frame rail to frame rail. It allows two almost equal yet opposing triangles to be the axis of rotation. Generally the lower arms are a little bit longer due to upper spacing issues. There should actually be some degree of binding up in the configurations I'm seeing. Not really knowing anyone with a rc crawler to look at, it may not be real here. What will happen with the lowers not being triangulated properly is a side walking of the axle. Basically, side walking of the axle. Enough force and bam, something will break. Let's see if the picture thing works here.

If you look under my drivers seat area on the frame, you can see the cross bar and my lower control arms coming up to it. The upper arms mount to the inside of frame rails about 2" above the lower ones. That gives the center of rotation only about 2" of offset on the frame side of the thing. This was phase 3 on my buggy. I don't have any ph 4 pics. The only thing Jeep was the body and 3/4 of the frame.

Frankenmule-1.jpg


Like I said, this may be a mute point for what you guys are doing here. I just think it would help articulation to be smoother and have less forces pushing sideways on the axles. I'm just curious here. I like the engineering side of these things. It's fun to play the what iff game. Look at Clifton at Poison Spyder Customs, this is what he uses on his hard core rigs (at least he use to, I quit crawling three years ago). He helped me with some advise on my setup.
 
PS,
it also allows you to drop your center of gravity and retain ground clearance.
 
So what do those rock catchers on the bottom frame rail of your jeep do?

True triangulation on 1:10 scale is tough to achieve with larger than scale links and drive shafts. there are major clearance issues. It is also not needed. single triangulation is more than sufficient, we dont have the side load issues real rigs have. Hell the rigs I build now dont even have any links of any kind, or shocks for that matter.......and are leaf spung!

Oh and welcome to the board!
 
I'm kinda surprised nobody's mentioned it. You CAN turn that T-MAXX into a crawler... but I supposed since you already bought a TLT, this info is too little too late :)
 
Kitchen sink post.

rockwerks said:
So what do those rock catchers on the bottom frame rail of your jeep do?

True triangulation on 1:10 scale is tough to achieve with larger than scale links and drive shafts. there are major clearance issues. It is also not needed. single triangulation is more than sufficient, we dont have the side load issues real rigs have. Hell the rigs I build now dont even have any links of any kind, or shocks for that matter.......and are leaf spung!

Oh and welcome to the board!

Thanks.
thread hijack on.
Actually, there was supposed to be a skid plate there. I got lazy....
I never did catch rocks on them, it was more of the sheet metal under what was the door. I didn't want to raise the upper arms into the pan, so that was the lesser of the evils..... I was wondering if someone would say something about that. 3 times through Patriot, no breakdonws, never hung on them. I did catch one on the waterfall on Carnage, but that was because I was ligned up wronge. I deleted most of my pictures, so there isn't much to show now.
hijack off.

Well, I'm actually relieved to know all of "Murphy's" rules don't apply here. It's hart do think small sometimes.... Thanks for the info. It will save me a headache or two in the future.

I think I saw one of your sprung - no shock builds. That is pretty cool. The leaf spring setup is fascinating. Don't you have bounce back from them? How do you do shackles? I have some other questions, maybe I should start another thread. Frame buildups......


I heard about t-maxx conversions, not sure I want to go there, they weigh soooooo much that I can't see them doing very well. Or do they?
Greg
 
Mule said:
Thanks.

I heard about t-maxx conversions, not sure I want to go there, they weigh soooooo much that I can't see them doing very well. Or do they?
Greg

a maxx can be built to perform very well, I like building the wierd stuff, a maxx is the next to go under the knife.
 
there is alot that you can get away with on these little guys that you can't on the 1:1 rigs.:lol: that to me is what makes it fun! test new ideas, good or bad, without the consequences.;-)
 
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