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DP Torsion bad review

studboy62

Newbie
Joined
May 30, 2011
Messages
12
Location
Alpena
Hey everyone, I'd like to give my review of the DP Torsion chassis just so people have some good info to make a buying choice. I thought it was a really good deal at only $15. I'm not trying to buy every upgrade I can with my truck but I still want a good crawler. I thought the Torsion would be a good, economical, way to get better performance. I was wrong.

The only thing I have done to my truck is defoamed my tires, flipped my motor/tranny, and moved the battery to the back tray. I have no other mods or aftermarket parts. It was basically stock when I put the DP Torsion on there. It installs in about 15 minutes and lowers the stance of the truck which is awesome. Definitely doesn't roll backwards as easily when you're playing on the couch. However it does not flex! Definitely not like some of the pictures I've seen on other reviews. You can twist the axles by hand and they can definitely go further than stock but by itself the truck is not heavy enough to flex the torsion arms.

So I asked for help and people told me I needed to add weight to my wheels in order to get it to flex. So I did the PVC beadlock mod and wrapped very thin solder around all 4 wheels. I used the thinnest I could find so it would pack tighter and add more weight. Barely made a difference with the chassis.

In the end I put the stock chassis back on and looped the ends of the springs around the top of the shocks. This lowered the stance of the truck to about the same as the DP Torsion chassis and it flexes! With my new homemade beadlocks, weighted wheels, and lowered stance it is now a million times better then straight out of the box. And the best part is it only cost me $5 worth of solder and $.48 worth of PVC.

So if you are trying to make a good crawler at an affordable price and like the $15 price tag of the DP Torsion, don't be fooled. You'll also need the $50 aluminum wheels and $15 wheel weight kit in order for that thing to work. If you truly want to keep things on the cheap then stick with the homemade mods.
 
The micro crawler is just too small of a cralwer for a torsin chassis to work on.


But taking your foams out is also a bad idea for almost all rc cars.
 
This thread reminds me a friend that bought crappy offroad tires for his truck. No matter how many runs we took, or how many times he got stuck, he wouldn't admit he bought shitty tires. You've eaten your crow and admitted your mistake. Not too often people spend money on a mod ( whether $15 or $40) and give an honest review simply based on the pride of buying said part. While I have not tried said chassis, thanks for the review.
 
I will add to this as I bought the dp torsion for one of my crawlers. out of the package it was a poor performer. I was not about to give in though. The only way I was able to get the chassis to flex like it should was to a set of the bwd weights to it along with lead shot in the tires once they were de foamed. Still did not want to flew proper so I took the chassis back off. Read up some more and alot of people boiled it to aneal the delrin. So I figured what the hell. why not. So I boiled the chassis plates for about 15-20 minutes on high. Put it all back together and it worked quite a bit better. Decided to run it some more and after about 5-6 packs ran through the crawler the chassis now flexes like it did in the pictures. DOes it flex liek it should? yes. Did I have to do alot of stuff to get it to that? yes. I have heard alot of people talking about it though being rather stiff out the packageing so you arent the first one.
 
try this

loosen the screws
look at my pics, (microNthuzest)







Hey everyone, I'd like to give my review of the DP Torsion chassis just so people have some good info to make a buying choice. I thought it was a really good deal at only $15. I'm not trying to buy every upgrade I can with my truck but I still want a good crawler. I thought the Torsion would be a good, economical, way to get better performance. I was wrong.

The only thing I have done to my truck is defoamed my tires, flipped my motor/tranny, and moved the battery to the back tray. I have no other mods or aftermarket parts. It was basically stock when I put the DP Torsion on there. It installs in about 15 minutes and lowers the stance of the truck which is awesome. Definitely doesn't roll backwards as easily when you're playing on the couch. However it does not flex! Definitely not like some of the pictures I've seen on other reviews. You can twist the axles by hand and they can definitely go further than stock but by itself the truck is not heavy enough to flex the torsion arms.

So I asked for help and people told me I needed to add weight to my wheels in order to get it to flex. So I did the PVC beadlock mod and wrapped very thin solder around all 4 wheels. I used the thinnest I could find so it would pack tighter and add more weight. Barely made a difference with the chassis.

In the end I put the stock chassis back on and looped the ends of the springs around the top of the shocks. This lowered the stance of the truck to about the same as the DP Torsion chassis and it flexes! With my new homemade beadlocks, weighted wheels, and lowered stance it is now a million times better then straight out of the box. And the best part is it only cost me $5 worth of solder and $.48 worth of PVC.

So if you are trying to make a good crawler at an affordable price and like the $15 price tag of the DP Torsion, don't be fooled. You'll also need the $50 aluminum wheels and $15 wheel weight kit in order for that thing to work. If you truly want to keep things on the cheap then stick with the homemade mods.
 
loosen the screws
look at my pics, (microNthuzest)

:lmao: You have to have the screws loose in the front any ways because of the servo.

The back just made sense when you flex it by hand. Did you figure out a way to cut down on the noise? Mine makes little weird noises when the arms flex over the screw threads.
 
boil the chassis in a pot of water for about 10mins give or take. stand there and keep an eye on it. gives it much better flex. i saw it off another forum and my friend has just done it too his about a month ago. we screw around in the front garden all the time. i have the tmc chassis and his (the dp) can prefrom much better than mine. i think he only boiled his for 3mins but he didnt have a clock or anything so if you decided to do it just be sure too have some tongs to pull it out lol he didnt and it didnt end well for his hand hahaha. hope that helps.
 
Never had a problem with mine. Had mine setup with the screws almost all the way out, defoamed tires with led shot. Sucker had some flex to it. Usually, torsion chassis' aren't the best performers when first bolted up. Gotta give them some time to wear in. Also, slow and steady is the name of the game, as you have to let the chassis do its thing. No torsion chassis at any scale is like driving a setup jp with shocks.
 
Just ordered this chasis. Couple questions-Can you be more specific when you say defoamed? Cut it like a star, took 50% away from height or removed all foam. What tire & wheels would you recommend over stock.

Thx!"thumbsup"
 
BerticusPryme,

Thx!

Since I just ordered my micro today (played with one at a comp today) can you tell me your thoughts on 1.55 tires? I will probably re-use the stock rims.
 
wait. did you order a micro crawler or a mini crawler? the micro uses a tire that is smaller than the 1.5 tires. if you got a micro then you got a few options. you can get the ones from rc4wd (boggers or rok lox would be my choice). or go to rcmart or ebay and have them slow boat some miclaws over. you will have to search for miclow though. Personally I prefer the rok lox and boggers. I cut my lox and they grab like crazy now.
 
IMGA0002-1.jpg


IMGA0001-2.jpg


AND I DIDNT BOIL IT
IMGA0001-2.jpg
[/QUOTE]
 
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