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Emaxx + XF2 = EX Spawn, My creation

Cildein

Newbie
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Messages
42
Ok so after several questions, months and labor. I finally created my hybrid Emaxx and X-Factor 2 truck. Basically I am using the XF2 chassis with cantilever suspension (Take that WannaBeDigler http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5178 ;-) ) which allowed me to mount the post on the emaxx axles (locked) and use the Emaxx transmission. This baby has a johnson DC motor ($3.50 cheapo), GD-600 with 2.5 gear, 76T spur, 14T pinion, front and rear steering, both differentials locked, and good old carbon arrow shafts! My focus point was to leave the spaces in the axles to allow batteries to be dropped in to allow low center of gravity and front end weight.

I do have a couple of questions to finish him. Does the Novak Super Stock (4300) motor fit up to the GD-600? I am still just not 100% when it comes to the motor sizes etc. If I go brushless and kick in a GD-600 3.8 gear with 16T pinion, I keep my speed at 2.7~mph yet only have to have 4 cells all which can be in the front.

Also I could use some ideas on how to keep the batteries from jumping out. I have unlockable zip ties but I don't like pinching the wires. I thought about getting some of that strong locking velcro to put on the bottom of the battery and on the axle, then maybe some foam tape (in pic) to stablize it?

I am going to move my RX pack to the chassis. I do have a little bit of body twist but I should be able to remidy it by tightening the shock threads on that side. Unfortuantly I don't have a pic but I do get about 70 degree articulation as recommened on this forum. I am locked in first gear.

Oh and any other tips are welcome
 

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not bad, but i think it just sits to high. i really never seen the reason for canti's myself, but some people like them...I personally think canti's are just a waste. flex is overrated ;-)


also, no reason to nag at digler. there is no reason to start shit
 
Too high?

It really does not sit that high, I just have it resting on my 100 Disc case. Most of the weight is actually on the axles.


I am just pulling wannabe's chain, that is why I have that link (previous post). He was poking at my canti's question before so I was just letting him know that I still used them. :-)
 
Ride height

I will try to get some ride height pictures posted tonight. Though why would height be an issue if the weight is mostly on the axles themselves? Does it help if I mention that the wheel base is 2 inches longer then my friends stock twin force?

SR5Dave,
SinCity was great.
 
nope WB doesnt help... it may not seem like alot of weight is up there, but it will still play a big factor. it is just adding alot more leverage to the top then necessary. specially with that AL. chassis up there
 
Ride height

I suppose this can be easily remedy by spinning the thread nut back on my xf2 shocks? I currently have them almost tightened all the way. What are your suggestions to how much I should lower? 1inch 2 inch?

I guess I should post the standard ride height pics, before expecting an answer to that.

No answers to my other two questions? ;-)
 
Twisted is right about the hight of that truck! You are on the right track about keeping as much wieght as possible on the axles, but that will only help so much when the rest of the truck is so high up. I would suggest that you shorten your cantilever links by enough to make your lower links parallel with the ground (2 inches maybe?). I like my cantilevers too, so I certainly understand why you want to keep them. Wheelbase is also important, but again, it can't fix a truck that is too high up.

As for the stiffness of the shocks, I like to keep mine as soft as possible. You can use wieght placement and 4-link geometry to cut down on torque roll or torque twist (instead of using stiff springs). Also, lowering the truck and CoG will greatly reduce any torque roll that you might have.
 
That thing would crawl right over a friggin circus tent!!!!!!!!!!! and would then stop in and have some popcorn and watch the elephants!!!
 
To answer your questions: The Novak Brushless motors have the same mounting holes that stock motors have (i.e. the 4800 & 5600 are the same as a 540 can, and the HV4400 is the same as a 550 can). So if you can fit your stock motor to your reduction, the brushless should work.

For battery straps, try using strips of velcro instead of twist ties. Cheap, easier, and relatively secure.

While your rig doesn't look like a "Comp" truck, I think it looks great. It might have a bit of a higher COG, but if you're having fun, who cares. I say drive it around and have fun. If it sucks, then remake it!
 
Thanks for all your comments/help guys!

The only thing I have to worry about is lowering the chassis too much and it hitting the axles.


bRIBEGuy,
Thanks for the info on the brushless setup. I was worried that the 550 can holes would not line up with a 540 style brushless motor. So I guess that kills that Idea. Maybe I should look at the super rooster or would the 550 sized johnson motor be to much? Specs say it can go as low at 3volts.


As for the batteries I don't have twist ties (my bad) I have the zip ties that allow you to unlock themselves. I was thinking of velrco, but the industrial stuff that is clear hard plastic with little mushroom arrow heads? Anyway it can hold a lot of weight per square inch and is very sturdy.
 
Cildein said:
Thanks for all your comments/help guys!

The only thing I have to worry about is lowering the chassis too much and it hitting the axles.


bRIBEGuy,
Thanks for the info on the brushless setup. I was worried that the 550 can holes would not line up with a 540 style brushless motor. So I guess that kills that Idea. Maybe I should look at the super rooster or would the 550 sized johnson motor be to much? Specs say it can go as low at 3volts.


As for the batteries I don't have twist ties (my bad) I have the zip ties that allow you to unlock themselves. I was thinking of velrco, but the industrial stuff that is clear hard plastic with little mushroom arrow heads? Anyway it can hold a lot of weight per square inch and is very sturdy.

May have already been said but....brushless motors are not ideal for crawling. Ditch that idea and you will be glad you did.
 
WannaBeDigler said:
May have already been said but....brushless motors are not ideal for crawling. Ditch that idea and you will be glad you did.


Actually I would like to ditch the idea if I can find a controller that will run my johnson 550 can with 4.8 volts? The EVX I don't think can handle that, it got figity on me when I tried to put two 3 cells on each battery connector (7.2volt in series). Suggestions? I suppose I could do four 2 cells in series for 9.6volt

Ok for all you that are complaining about my ride height, I was wrong the shocks are as loose as they go and it only sagged about .5 inch. Think I will have to go to ligher springs.
 

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yeah thats tall... my underbelly clearance is only like 5", but the rest of my motor/tranny and stuff only sit at like 7 "( 2" above bottom of chassis.. yours is like up in the 10-11" range. my whole truck is only 11 1/2" tall
 
Cildein said:
I will try to get some ride height pictures posted tonight. Though why would height be an issue if the weight is mostly on the axles themselves? Does it help if I mention that the wheel base is 2 inches longer then my friends stock twin force?

You've still got a tranny and a motor up there ;)

SR5Dave,
SinCity was great.

I feel like its the best movie I've seen to date. I just loved it. Marv is my hero :lol:
 
New springs

Ok so I got the Red springs (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/149356.asp ) and it droped about an inch, so now it is 5 inches from the ground and the motor (heighest point) is only 10 inches. One thought was if I switched the cantilever around so the long end was at the shock and the short end was at the rod?


Anyone know a good EVC that does reverse and handles 4 cells. Maybe the XRS? I assume the johnson (20T?) would not over load it?
 
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