First kit advice?

[solidshark91493]

Finally broke my lurk and made an account here, and also got my first kit.
Axial RR10 Bomber.
Mostly built, but Im kinda stuck currently.

1. The guys at CKRC didnt tell me I needed paint. D:< Any ideas/recommendations?

The box has a lot of extra parts and plastic and im not sure what all of it is for?
I think its the hi/lo... but no idea.

Still trying to figure out my electronics. So heres what I got with it, try to make sense of things.
Tactic TTX300 radio/receiver -fairly straight forward, however I cant figure out which direction to plug things into the receiver..

2x Gens ACE 2200mah 3s lipo - No idea what to do with them, do I charge? or.. discharge? how many times do I need to before I use them?

Castle sidewinder 3 esc - it says waterproof all over when I search it but the manual says its not. Also cant figure out which pins to use for the motor.

Traxxas 550 titan motor (Brushed so only two wires)

Castle BEC - Straight forward, plugged into battery on receiver and Im stuck at soldering it and the esc to my deans connector. I removed the red wire from the esc connector.

Savox servo - dont have the box so I dont know which one it is atm.. its copper colored.


So any advice on this stuff / input would be great. I wanna use led's and a light bar for crawling but not sure what to get, prefer cheaper on that..

 

[Chris81]

All the battery info here you could want.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34047

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[solidshark91493]

Thats a start! thank you.

Edit: Well Im still slightly confused.. I dont know how to use the charger yet and set it up. Also I cant really charge it outside and I dont have a lipo bag yet D:
Hm.. to youtube..
I have a Hitec X1 ACplus charger. forgot to mention it.
I have figured, my batteries are 2200 mah, 25c, 11.1v
So Im gonna put it on the charger and to charge it at 1C that would be 2.2A. Then Ill leave it there till its done. Or at 4.2v if Im not mistaken.

 

[sabo308]

Welcome to the forum, mate.
The Bomber is a great kit, you're gonna love it.

Tamiya is generally the "go-to" brand of paint, and for good reason.
It's available pretty much everywhere and is top-notch stuff.
Having said that, though, most of the brands that hobby stores carry are generally pretty decent, so you can't really go too wrong.

Having a ton of plastic parts left over from a kit build is just the Axial way.
They tend to give you spare rod ends, pivot balls... in the Bomber kit you get a spare set of sliders for the driveshaft, servo and other mounting parts for the 2-speed option, spare trailing arms, the list goes on.
Nothing to worry about there.

Regarding the Castle Sidewinder 3, it is waterproof according to Castle's website, albeit with a *disclaimer:
Sidewinder 3 Sport 1:10 Scale ESC

I highly suggest doing some research regarding battery/electronics. There is a ton of info on this forum as well as all over the rest of the internet, so you will be able to find out everything you need to know to get you going.

 

[Ditchrat]

Finally broke my lurk and made an account here, and also got my first kit.
Axial RR10 Bomber.
Mostly built, but Im kinda stuck currently.

1. The guys at CKRC didnt tell me I needed paint. D:< Any ideas/recommendations?

I'm new enough to remember those feelings, so much information to process, so many opinions often time conflicting. Lets see if I can help a little.

Sabo mentioned Tamiya as the go to paint, I agree and have had good luck with it. But there are lots of other paints and lots of Tamiya paints for that matter. I have had my best results using the Tamiya PS(for polycarbonates) using rattle cans.

I have tried the "plastic" paints from hardware stores and failed miserably.

Make sure you do a good washing of the body panels before painting them. the Tamiya PS is forgiving but it will still fish eye if the lexan isn't clean.


Tamiya America - Paints & Finishes


Your charging issue, I cant help you on the operations, but for the time being don't worry about a Lipo bag. You can charge it by laying the battery on a non flammable surface, I used a ceramic cooking pot, so long as you are around when its charging. It shouldn't be more then 45min to an hour.

I have intentionally set lipos ablaze, they go quick, but without something to catch on fire they burn out quick too. Get a bag as soon as you can.

 

[QuesoDelDiablo]

Sounds like everyone has got you the answers you need so I'll disregard most of your post...

Just a quick post to mention that for the first couple of years I used LiPo batts, I charged them in a cookie tin with a brick on top (to hold the lid down if something did happen).

I've also know people to put them in the hole of a cinder block flipped on it's side and cover that with a brick or something.

Back in the olden days LiPo bags were expensive and hard to find..

 

[Chris81]

Ammo cans work great for storage too!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[LokisTyro]

Why would you put your battery in something that can build pressure and then put more shrapnel on top? I know they burn up, but even so. .Hobbyking or one of those websites had lipo bags for a buck the other day..

Anyway, if you're mechanically inclined find an exploded view(s) of your vehicle and that should help you out a lot in identifying parts and have a parts list with part numbers to go along with it. Some of my exploded views have part numbers and some only show how assemblies are put together and what order parts go in etc etc.

 

[doubler]

I ended up ordering a v2 scx10. Most of the locals run them and the og scx10. Can't wait for mine to get here.... come on RPP!

 

[Bigmud]

Guess I'm an outlaw charging batteries. Lol still charge my lipos out on the table in the open

 

[QuesoDelDiablo]

Why would you put your battery in something that can build pressure and then put more shrapnel on top? I know they burn up, but even so. .Hobbyking or one of those websites had lipo bags for a buck the other day..

Anyway, if you're mechanically inclined find an exploded view(s) of your vehicle and that should help you out a lot in identifying parts and have a parts list with part numbers to go along with it. Some of my exploded views have part numbers and some only show how assemblies are put together and what order parts go in etc etc.

Guess I should've clarified. Lokis is right about the sealed container. If you do use a cookie tin or something like that, make sure you vent the container.