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Freakaccident's tube chassis crawler build...

Have you tried Safety Silv 56? It flows so much better

I used it on this build.







"thumbsup"

Ernie

PS: sorry, some how I missed your post about getting your Safety Silv.
 
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So I received my Safety-Silv 56 and flux today. Wow. This is so much better than brazing rods. My main concern is cost.

So I fishmouthed a tube and brazed it to another tube. That would be tube 1 brazed to tube 2 in the picture. I cooled it, cleaned the joint, and then added in the third tube. It turned out really well. The first joint didn't melt away like it did with the bronze rods. My fitment could be better and I should have used a little more solder.

Thoughts?

XBNsoY4h.jpg

Since those parts are practice, You might learn something from testing the strength of that joint. I always like to test once in a while. And yes, a little more solder. "thumbsup" A couple tips for you, when using the safety silv heat you joint until your flux turns to a clear and watery then apply your safety silv. Your joints need to be super clean, I always use the grinder to clean every joint. If you get your joint to hot and it builds up with carbon, you may as well just stop clean everything and start over. And yes Safety Silv isn't cheap but now you have seen the difference.
Hope these help you out. I've been building for quite awhile and one thing I've learned is it just takes a lot of practice.
Ernie.
 
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I broke down and ordered Safety-silv 56. It isn't cheap so I am hoping I won't use much. The low melting point should help a lot. I will post more when I get it tomorrow.

Thanks for watching!

Once you get the hang of its melting point and reading the flux it'll become cheaper lol.

You wont use that much on each joint. I use to average half a roll per frame and I built some weird/intricate stuff years ago lol.

I also did it all on MAP gas, thought about trying an oxy setup but never needed the heat. Plus Oxygen's free :ror:

A couple tips for you, when using the safety silv heat you joint until your flux turns to a clear and watery then apply your safety silv.
Ernie.

Yup exactly what I mean by 'reading the flux' ...... Great point Ernie!
 
Nice work. The thing I found after building my first cage is you want as tight a fit on all tubes. So if your doing a corner with 3rd member in at a 45, you want that 3rd member to have a point which gets its right into the corner.

For the skid mounting, this would be ideal. https://www.scalerfab.com/collections/diy/products/wraith-rock-slider-chassis-cage-brackets-2

You could change that inner tube which is currently touch the skid for this plate and still keep a lower skid height.
 
Nice work. The thing I found after building my first cage is you want as tight a fit on all tubes. So if your doing a corner with 3rd member in at a 45, you want that 3rd member to have a point which gets its right into the corner.

For the skid mounting, this would be ideal. https://www.scalerfab.com/collections/diy/products/wraith-rock-slider-chassis-cage-brackets-2

You could change that inner tube which is currently touch the skid for this plate and still keep a lower skid height.

Wow. Thanks for the link. I didn't even know that website was out there.
 
Thanks for sharing the process!



I'm not sure why I can't see those pics in that thread

'snip'
How did you get that pic? All I see on the pics in that thread is blur and a photobucket watermark.




There are some plug ins for various browsers that can potentially fix some of these images. This thread hasn't been updated for a while but I would try searching the term 'photobucket' within your browser's plug ins to see whats current http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chit-chat/592867-photobucket-embedded-image-fix.html
 
How is the progress going on this tube chassis?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
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