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GOM reliability

BAJAREY2017

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
274
Location
St George
Iv ran a couple 2s packs and a 3s pack through my GOM and so far have been impressed with it. Not sure about how reliable the plastics trans gears are though especially on 3s. What’s everybody else’s experience with it. Iv been shifting on the fly and not sure if you’re suppose to or is it better to come to a complete stop. I plane on upgrading to metal gears when/if these strip out but not something I’m looking forward to doing. I did get the aluminum shift fork along with rear shock brace, slipper clutch, and knuckle bushings. What all have people been breaking and what should I look out for.... thanks


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I didn't want to risk plastic gears so I've put all metal gears on my build. I haven't run it yet though, I need a few more parts from Junfac and hoping the aluminum dig fork gets released soon.
 
Cva pins...they like to snap. Just done a rear one with the upgraded Junfac locking jobbies. Well I didn't do it but my youngest son did. Gears seem to be holding up ok...Im on a mamba X with a tekin rok 3100kv on 3S. My son is running a mamba with 3800kv on 3s....seems ok so far.

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I didn’t know they had metal gears until after I had it together, oh well. I’m out now trying to break it but it’s not happening. I don’t trust the clips on the drivelines but no issues yet. I’ll get the metal ones as soon as I lose a clip
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Plastic gears in the gearbox aren't that big of an issue - that's what most of my race cars have as well. Especially since they're 32p. I'll probably order the metal ones if the plastic ones do break, but also might just get the single-speed gearbox at that point (assuming it's available). But frankly especially since I only have a 2850kv motor in it - which seems quite fast enough for my needs, not much smooth surface driving - I reckon they should last quite some time. The most likely cause of failure would be going into full reverse instead of breaking since I'm currently running the new ESC in FWD/REV mode. FWD/REV/BR has such an annoying delay for crawling purposes but is of course much less risky for high speeds.

For actual breakages - having only driven ~80 minutes, mind you - I only broke the front bumper so far. It's badly designed around the lower screws, the screws really shouldn't "sink" into the tube because that makes it too thin in those points.

And as I mentioned in the main GOM thread, I think part number GM60019 is pretty nice to have for spare parts purposes, it has many useful parts.
 
I've been running 3S Brushed with no issues with the plastic gears.

They say to shift while stopped, I often shift while moving slowly though sometimes it wont engage until I roll backwards so I've started to do it while stopped more.

the Front CVA's need a few mods to make reliable (longer 12mm pins or the center barrel with set screw, or heatshrink to keep the retaining ring in place), and the driveline does look like a weak point, I replaced mine before even using the stock ones but yeah not too trusting of the C clips.
 
I've been running 3S Brushed with no issues with the plastic gears.

They say to shift while stopped, I often shift while moving slowly though sometimes it wont engage until I roll backwards so I've started to do it while stopped more.

the Front CVA's need a few mods to make reliable (longer 12mm pins or the center barrel with set screw, or heatshrink to keep the retaining ring in place), and the driveline does look like a weak point, I replaced mine before even using the stock ones but yeah not too trusting of the C clips.

Mine shifts best at a slow speed from 1st to 2nd otherwise it wont fully engage. Going the other way stationary works fine. Still cant get DIG but with 4WS I dont really need it.

Even with the set screw and heatshrink it broke a pin today...on the rear ! Ive now got a 12mm + heatshrink + set screw.

Driveline holding up well, brushless on 3S, but I make sure punch control is ~60% at least, not need for it to wheelie off the line and break stuff.
 
Well that’s good to know the gears are holding up, I also wasn’t sure about the cast pinions but stock parts are cheap so not a problem. I ran 2 more 3s packs and going to run it again later. My Ascender and other rc’s are collecting dust, a new rc is like having a new girlfriend. Just hope I’m not sick of it in a month.


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So far so good. I run mine on 3s and other then losing a couple c clips on the driveline I haven’t had a problem


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