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Good hex driver set?

May be late to the game but this is the driver I use. Got it on ebay years ago and love it. Only have to carry one thing in my pocket for trail runs and fits it all. Has 4 metric and 4 standard sizes, 2 Phillips and 2 flat bits.

eBay link

I ordered with a blue but got black but that doesn't matter to me.
 
I like Wiha and MIP. They fit very well - much less likely to strip out a screw. They do cost more but if you can swing it they will last longer and work better then cheaper tools. Tools are one thing I find it worth spending the extra dough up front if I can swing it.
 
I picked up a set of the the long shaft Turnigy drivers.
$12. STMD 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.

s-l500.jpg


Haven't broke them in three years use.
They all fit tightly into their prospective grubs @90*
And have never rounded out any of them, nor the mild steel std grubs.

Haven't twisted nor broken the 1.5 tip
and that's the only one I'd have most concern about.
But it's held up to torquing the pinion gear tightly many times.

Quality or not... the Turnigy drivers get it done. And for less coin.

It's the Bondhus ball drivers that fail (round out) consistently.
Sure would like to know whom sells a hardened set of those for cheap.
It's nice to be able to angle the driver for certain screw positions.

These are decent drivers... MIP Thorp Metric Hex Driver set
but I'm not that spendy.

Ham fisted knuckle heads will probably break everything they touch. :razz: Lol
 
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I bought those Turnigy drivers to try just because they were so cheap. Maybe lasted a week. Maybe you got a lucky set. I'll stick to my MIP's.
 
Yeah the difference, I think, is in the tolerances and the materials. I've snapped the shafts on cheap hex drivers, especially in the smaller hex sizes. Sometimes you'll get a good fit on a cheap driver, but other times you won't.

Ball drivers just can't get the same fit as a straight driver. That's the sacrifice of being able to get in at an angle. So, you just can't tighten with a ball driver the way you can with a straight driver. For tight spaces, I'll initially loosen with a hex key, then use a ball driver, and vice verse for tightening.
 
I bought those Turnigy drivers to try just because they were so cheap. Maybe lasted a week. Maybe you got a lucky set. I'll stick to my MIP's.
I'm just curious as to what broke and what you were applying torque to when that occured ?

I mean it shouldn't take that much torque to thread into plastic...
and even threading into metal doesn't require excessive torque
if some locktite were applied.

So what caused yours to failure ?

It's possible I've been lucky... but I'll doubt that. I'm just careful.
Always being sure they're used at 90* and never leveraged at angle.

I do know I could snap the tips if I tried, especially the 1.5
and possibly even from just the weight of the handle leveraging.

But up to this point... I feel I got my $ 12. use out of them.

They'll probably fail tomorrow just because I inquired here !? Lol
 
They didn't snap at all. They just fit terrible in my screws and rounded off the screws then the tips. Almost like the were labeled metric but were standard sizes. Never had a problem with my MIP's and the same screws.
 
I have owned quite of few hex wrenches over the years. Integy, Hudy, Turnigy and MIP. All wrenches have a time and place but the MIP and Hudy wrenches were by far a superior tool. With the cheaper brands, they did work fine, just after acouple months the tips would start to round off. I own a set of Turnigy. They are my trail tools. They do the job and if it breaks or gets lost no big deal. However I would never use those to put a kit together. Everything from the tip to the ergonomics of the handle are much better on the Hudy and MIP. The tools are not really thay expensive, especially considering how long they last. My Hudy lasted me over 5 years before the tip was no good. Quality tools are extremely important in this hobby. You are using them all the time. A set of MIP works out to about $10 a tool while Turnigy is around $2 and I feel the MIP with last at least 5 times longer. So for me it is cheaper to by a set of MIP, which is my current tool of choice. I bought the 3 hex wrenches I use 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 2 nut drivers 5.5 and 7mm for around $70 Canadian. This is the case with anything. That is why people buy Axial kits instead of Redcat Racing. They are both remote control vehicles. They both accomplish the same job. The quality is no where near the same. Hence the price difference. All hex drivers work, just some work better than others. Personally with the amount of money I have invested in vehicles I can spend an extra $10 a tool for quality tools, it's well worth the investment from my experience and I have tried the cheapo method.
 
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I do know I could snap the tips if I tried, especially the 1.5
and possibly even from just the weight of the handle leveraging.

I'm fairly certain I could use my 1.5 MIP bit as a chisel and not damage it. I have turned on them with a nice fat Klein handle as hard as physically possible without any ill effect.

$45 for 3 tips and a handle isn't bad, I do work in a $500 torque wrench field though :lmao:
 
I've used the Integy hex drivers for a couple of years. Always replacing the 1.5mm and 2mm tips. Finally bought 1.5mm and 2mm Hudy tips. They mount perfectly to the Integy handles. I'm still cheap that way. Bottom line, I had a grub screw with a 1.5mm hex that I couldn't get out with anything, including an Allen wrench. I was ready to apply some heat but just out of curiosity, I decided to try the Hudy and had no problem removing the grub screw. I'm impressed and will be replacing the rest of my Integy tips with Hudy. "thumbsup"
 
In my pocket out on the trails:
https://www.teamassociated.com/news/latest_products/491-8-Piece_14"_Hex_Driver_Set/
With a Leatherman and this kit I'm able to do most repairs out on the trail.

On my work space:
MIP Hex Driver Wrench Set, Metric (3) #9502

MIP is by far the best drivers I've ever used. They look simple but the handle feels great and the tips lasts forever. I've actually broken a 2,5 mm shaft though, using it as a pry bar far beyound their inteded use. Everything has limits.. :mrgreen:
 
I have some Bondhus ball end blades coming. I'll update with a review when I get them. The ball end drivers I've been using are hand tools, and come from Park Tool.
 
MIP is the best. I have tried many others with the exception of Hudy. But MIP has been the best investment I have made for RC hex drivers.


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I have several hex sets.

In the field and at the track, I run Hudy. Fantastic drivers. But, pricey. I have run mine for 12+ years with no breakage.

On the bench, I have 3 sets. Wiha T-handle. Wera hex drivers, and Bondhaus ball end. I am a technician by trade.

The Wiha and Wera, top end. Can't recommend then enough. I find the Bondhaus handles to be to small for my taste.

These days, I stay away from RC branded tools. I can buy top end German tools for way less than most RC brands.

The biggest difference I find with RC brand tools is they have larger handles to apply more torque. Why I use regular and t-handle sets.

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Lightweight, good quality spring steel and comfortable is Hudy Profi line. Don't like heavy metal handles.
 
Lightweight, good quality spring steel and comfortable is Hudy Profi line. Don't like heavy metal handles.

I will say when your hands are covered in shock oil that these are harder to grip than the metal handled ones, but the not a deal breaker for me. Also like the thin shaft as it gives good feedback as far as torque applied.
 
I have a set of Hudy and they are great. The price is worth it if its quality and gonna last forever.
 
I was joking a while back at how overpriced MIP was, but you honestly get what you pay for. I can't believe how great they work
 
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