HELP shredded tranny gears!

[dannyboyjdc]

So I shredded the plastic teeth in my deadbolt on the differential gear and idler gear in my transmission (all started when the 3 little screws backed out of the locked diff gear). Should I upgrade to steel? or does the plastic take the abuse as long as the screws don't back out on me?

If I wanted to get beasty transmission gears or uber-durable after market transmission what options are out there?

Thanks!!

 

[Locked Up]

Plastic gears usually hold up fair well but steel is obviously a much stronger alternative. Once you start adding metal drive shafts and upgrading diff gears, lockers ,etc ... it's usually a good idea to upgrade the transmission gears.

Personally, I prefer to use a plastic spur gear and they that be the "weak link" in my drive train. they are cheap and usually pretty easy to swap out (compared to taking apart the whole trans or an axle housing).

I'm out of stock on these right now but...
AX10 LOCKED TRANSMISSION - COMPLETE METAL GEAR SET (STEEL) - 3 PCS

I'm sure you can find them in stock someplace if you need to order them today.
"thumbsup"

 

[dannyboyjdc]

Sweet, thanks a ton!! I don't need them today, gonna be at least 2 weeks until I could even think about going back out.
Any timing on when they will be back in stock?

 

[redsawacs]

I agree with Patrick, there is no reason to upgrade for "strength" unless you have a MONSTER powerplant stuffed in the truck. The stocks hold up just fine. I have yet to tear up any of my gear sets....even on my crawlers. As long as you keep the screws tights (loctite) and make sure the bearings don't have excessive slop, you'll be fine.

I tell folks, "If you break a part, replace it with stock (its cheap to do that). If you break it again, perhaps you should entertain upgrades."

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Once broken, once upgraded period. Why waste money on more stock stuff that is proven to break? The lower gear will last a long time before it loses teeth but the idler gear should always be replaced with a metal version since it takes the most abuse in the trans.

 

[redsawacs]

Nah...if I can fix it with a stock fix and it was a FLUKE break, why spend the money on upgraded parts that I don't need. I have yet to break an idler gear either....Apparently I don't drive like White-Trash.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

You say it as if driving like me is a bad thing.


Need is a variable idea. Do you NEED to run lipo? Do you NEED to use 2.4ghz radios? Do you NEED to keep chasing weak parts with more weak parts? The plastic gear kit is $5 the steel idler from Robinson Racing is $12 and won't ever go bad. If $7 is THAT much of a deal breaker for you then you're in the wrong hobby.

 

[ClovisCrawler]

You say it as if driving like me is a bad thing.


Need is a variable idea. Do you NEED to run lipo? Do you NEED to use 2.4ghz radios? Do you NEED to keep chasing weak parts with more weak parts? The plastic gear kit is $5 the steel idler from Robinson Racing is $12 and won't ever go bad. If $7 is THAT much of a deal breaker for you then you're in the wrong hobby.

It is when you don't have $7. And somebody in the family will probably suffer with that $5 investment. Maybe he is in the wrong hobby. Most will upgrade with power before upgrading with strength. Bad move. My rigs are all stock with metal replacements at critical areas.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

It is when you don't have $7. And somebody in the family will probably suffer with that $5 invest. Maybe he is in the wrong hobby. Most will upgrade with power before upgrading with strength. Bad move. My rigs are all stock with metal replacements at critical areas.

That's what I'm saying. I'm no baller with cash falling out of my pockets. I don't own any metal housing for my axles or trasmission, nor do I have any bling bead locks. I just spend money where it's a better investment in the long haul.

I heard a saying years ago and it's the truest thing when it comes to these things. "Poor people can't afford to be cheap". 8)

 

[redsawacs]

The Idler gear, or any gear in the transmission has not proven to be a trouble spot for me, any of my rigs or any of the members or the SOCOCrawlers here in "The Springs"...ok, one or two but it hasn't proven to be a trend.....so, based on my experience and I see no reason to upgrade it as a "Proven weak spot". The 3 screws in the output shaft - yup, they need loctite from factory! my comments support that.

You're original statement about the steel gears are accurate and I agree....notice I agreed with Patrick from Locked Up RC as well - I'm not trying to take that away from you.

My goal on the forum is to provide practical, logical, affordable advice to newcomers getting into the hobby who may want to consider all their options and make the best choice for them. I'm not saying that you're wrong, I'm simply saying "I disagree with your approach". If the Original Poster wants to go for the upgrades, thats his or her OPTION to choose. Will I be upset, NOPE!

Throwing options that make sense to me....and perhaps to others new to the hobby.

Last think I want is someone to think this hobby is a money pit and walk away altogether.

Reference Tag line below


P.S. Poor people can't afford this hobby....thrifty is a whole different animal.

 

[ClovisCrawler]

That's what I'm saying. I'm no baller with cash falling out of my pockets. I don't own any metal housing for my axles or trasmission, nor do I have any bling bead locks. I just spend money where it's a better investment in the long haul.

I heard a saying years ago and it's the truest thing when it comes to these things. "Poor people can't afford to be cheap". 8)

Amen

 

[dannyboyjdc]

I think I have a plan that is actually to take both sets of advice "thumbsup"
The steel is out of stock and a whole set of replacements is only $5 shipped, so I am going to get the stock style for now and wait for the steel to get in stock. If nothing new has broken by then I will go for the steel set

Based on my limited skill and aggressive nature I have a feeling there will be another weak spot found fairly fast :mrgreen:

Appreciate the help guys, I am a total newbie in rc.

It is a perfect fit with my two other main hobbies though, camping and atv trail riding and hill climbing so I won't be able to go back now.

 

[Fergy]

Best advice not said while running stock gears with shallow pockets (mine feel that way often) is to make sure that the slipper can do its job-SLIP WHEN IN A BIND TO NOT TEAR THE GEARS OUT.

If its locked down you will strip gears.

 

[dannyboyjdc]

So I think I know why the teeth spun off

Here is the complete low down. Original failure was the 3 screw coming out of the diff gear. When I tore it apart i manage to re-cut the burrs off a few of the teeth that looked stripped out and still had good engagement. All good got a few more runs out of it.

BUT, I had no idea what I was doing and tightened the nut all the way down assuming that there would still be slipping in the clutch. (Thanks Fergy you just saved my new set of gears :ror I think I may be safe with plastic gear now that I have combed through some of the slipper adjournment threads and will get loc-tite on the diff screws.


Thanks again for all the help!!

 

[Flash178]

I just replaced the idler gear with a robinson racing one.
That's the gear that fails. then it wipes out the diff gear.
Using a replacement stock diff gear and it's smooth and quiet