• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

House of Kolor paint?

JeepCrawler

Rock Stacker
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
76
Location
Drexel Hill
Has anyone ever used it here? I saw that they carry it at the lhs. I did some research on it and saw a few posts/internet articles that said it didn't adhere to lexan that great.
Kevin
 
i use it for everything, the kustom kolor line has been formulated for lexan paint. but regualr automotive paints will stick pretty damn well if you scuff and clean it. you'll want to give it a good scuff with a gray scratch pad (apprx 600 grit) availible at places that stock house of kolor and automotive body supplys

besides that its pretty easy to use just mix anywear from 1-1 for large heavy coverage and 1(paint-2(reducer for a little thinner but you'll find a mixture that works, you can also get the paints premixed but i wouldnt recomend it
 
same here. i was skeptical about using pigments from a company accustomed to covering steel for my rc bodies, so i started with just two bottles.

two days cure on 3 coats metallic green, with a clearcoat over it (backed with clear, painted on the inside) and the paint was just as pliable as any fascolor i'd ever used, but much prettier.
the pigment distribution was beautiful and deep, the clearcoat self-leveled so smooth you'd think it was wet sanded.

the metallic green was airbrushed on but the clearcoat was rattle can. both worked well.

to sum it up: i bought 8 more bottles :-P no more rattle cans just because of the control and distribution with airbrush
 
ppg will work as well as house of kolor, you just have to remember to scuff that lexan! you need physical and chemical binders to hold it on there

adding flex agents will help but not really needed
 
same here. i was skeptical about using pigments from a company accustomed to covering steel for my rc bodies, so i started with just two bottles.

two days cure on 3 coats metallic green, with a clearcoat over it (backed with clear, painted on the inside) and the paint was just as pliable as any fascolor i'd ever used, but much prettier.
the pigment distribution was beautiful and deep, the clearcoat self-leveled so smooth you'd think it was wet sanded.

the metallic green was airbrushed on but the clearcoat was rattle can. both worked well.

to sum it up: i bought 8 more bottles :-P no more rattle cans just because of the control and distribution with airbrush

Have any pictures of your paintjobs?
 
Thanks for the replies guys. So if I scuff the inside with a gray scotchbrite pad to assist with the paint adhereing to the lexan will the scratches show up under the paint at all? Does painting over the scratches cover them well?
Thanks,
Kevin
 
I had the same Q's so contacted HOK themselves and they sent me a nice long e-mail back. Valspar makes the stuff for them with HOK mix recipes I guess. Quoted from them "safe for lexan" "Can use Acetone or an Aggressive thinner to reduce but not the Testors line" "Maybe reduced up to 20%" "23psi should be a good start for air pressure" "Thin coats best with adequate dry time between coats"
 
Back
Top