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How to shorten a Deadbolt to fit a D90 body

DougM

Newbie
Joined
Jun 15, 2015
Messages
6
Location
Australia
I thought this might be of use to some people - I searched and searched and searched for info on how to do this and could not find anything terribly helpful (on here or other sites).

I wanted to shorten my RTR SCX10 Deadbolt to fit an RC4WD D90 body. Since then I've also bought a Boom Racing D90 body (and some other stuff :)).

So I set about trying to find out how to shorten the wheelbase on the Deadbolt. Everything I found mentioned rod lengths but nothing about the actual full length required - they all assumed you were using / had / knew the tie rod end lengths they'd used. If you've got an RTR Deadbolt they just come with links with no separate tie rod ends so I was a bit lost.

So, quite a few orders to Asia Tees later (several sets of rods - a bit of trial and error took place) plus an order from RC4WD for tie rod ends (and other odds and ends) and I now have this:

36744677351_b83ee62311_c.jpg


The body is too high - I'll trim the BR one to get it lower but want to keep the RC4WD one standard so I think a set of 1.5s might be needed. Wheelbase is 283 / 284mm (or thereabouts).

Anyway, on to the bits I used:
Tie Rods are RC4WD M3 Medium Straight Plastic with Axial Balls:

M3 Medium Straight Plastic Rod Ends w/ Axial Width Balls (20x)

The distance between the centres of the tie rod balls on the links I used are as follows:
Front Lower = 113mm = 75mm rod + 2 rod ends
Front Lower = 105mm = 65mm rod + 2 x 1mm spacers + 2 rod ends

Rear Lower = 108mm = 70mm rod + 2 rod ends
Rear Upper = 100mm = 60mm rod + 2 x 1mm spacers + 2 rod ends


The rods were all Boom Racing and came with spacers.

I 4 linked the front end - the RTR has the link mount you need to use on the parts tree - you need a new 30mm bolt and a nut to fix the links to the front axle. You need to remove the servo from the axle to remove the 3 link mount.

You will need to shorten the driveshafts:
Front - replace the longer of the two tubes with a shorter tube from the parts tree.
Rear - shorten both tubes and the splined shaft that joins them together. I just cut bits off until I was happy with it.

I also moved the top mount on all of the shocks one hole nearer the centre of the chassis - they are all now in the centre hole on the shock hoop.


I hope that is helpful - I'm off to figure out how best to mount the body.
 
Thanks for the post. I know I get all confused trying to figure out if someone is talking Rod length or hole to hole length or what. I'm glad you did the trail and error so I don't have too!
 
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