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JackedDriver's R1 Build (non-specific purpose / just wanted a good build)

JackedDriver

Newbie
Joined
Dec 20, 2015
Messages
9
Location
Alameda
First post and wanted to say hey.

Well, it's Christmas and I wanted to buy my son an RC truck. The boy loves anything with wheels. Well, I fell in love with the R1, but quickly figured out that it was waaaay too much for him. BUT NOT FOR ME! lol And I sold it to my wife as it would be a way for him and I to get out of the house together.

Anyway, most of the stuff to get the build going should be here today hopefully. Bought most of it from RPP, and the rest from Amazon. On to the build list.

R1 ARTR Rock Buggy Crawler (Black Version)
Futaba 3PL 2.4G FHSS with R2004GF Rx

Tekin ROC412 BL Crawler Motor 1.5Y 3100kV
Tekin RS GEN2 Brushless Sensored/Sensorless D2 ESC
Axial Racing Aluminum Servo Horn
Castle Creations BEC 10A Switching Regulator
Hitec RCD HS-7955TG V2 High Res. Ultra Torque Titanium Gear Servo

RC Screwz Stainless Steel Screw Kit
G Made R1 Delrin Skid Plate
G Made Skid Plate
G Made Hardened Carbon Steel Universal Shafts
G Made High Clearance Link
G Made R1 Shock Brace
G Made Piggyback Shocks F&R

This won't be for competitions for even crawling on much. It's just for playing around with the kids. I know there will be some of you that will say that for my needs I've gone overboard, and would've been fine with the stock parts. But I can't help myself. LOL If anything is able to be upgraded and made better, then I have to rebuild it to how I like it. "thumbsup"

And so it begins...


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It's coming along now. Swapped out the shocks and added braces and a few other bits. I mounted the ESC and the receiver on the plate that the instructions say they should go, but I'm seeing now that it's not going to leave much options for battery placement unless I want it hanging out the rear. I've pulled them off and I'm going to mount them on the battery tray and hopefully figure something out for the batteries up front under the hood where there's more room and a lower CoG. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. This is my first build so I'm kinda winging it. lol :shock:


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Does no one comment in the R1 forum anymore?

The frustration with battery placement is really making me wonder if I should've gotten the Axial Wraith. :/
 
I run a small 2200mah pack stuffed in the back of the chassis. There really isn't a lot of room in there. Works fine for my needs.
 
I know I started this build without a specific direction, but the more I lurk and build the more I like the rock racers. I've already started building it with a higher CoG than what I've seen the racers have, but I'd hate to waste the money on the links. Oh, well. We'll see how it evolves.

I work a night shift, and I took this whole past week off so I could get onto a normal schedule for time with the family. Didn't work so well. I sleep in four hour stints and never sleep the whole night. Kind of a good thing since I'll be back to work Monday night, but here now it's 4AM and I'm tinkering while sipping on some Makers that my awesome wife got me for Christmas. "thumbsup"

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Like I said, I'm a total noob but I try to research as much as possible before making purchasing decisions as I hate buying things twice. With that said, do you guys think my Tekin ROC412 / Tekin RS GEN2 combo with push this bad boy to some decent speed? Looking for somewhere in the 20s. Also, after doing a bunch of measurements and rearranging I've purchased two Venom Fly 50C 3S 2200mAh that I think I can fit in series. If not, one will work just fine. What do you guys think?

Amazon.com: Venom Fly 50C 3S 2200mAh 11.1V LiPO Battery with Universal 2.0 Plug: Toys & Games
 
I use a Traxxas 2200 2s for their 1/16 vehicles. They are pretty small.

Thats a lot of power for this vehicle. I don't think gmade had 20 mph in mind when designing it. I say go for it - curious as to how it turns out.
 
Slow progress. Got the motor installed and wired, and I didn't expect it to be as big as it is. Like I said, this is my first build. :| So I pretty much screwed my idea for the battery/batteries in the front of the buggy. So I've put it in the rear under the battery plate. Just waiting on a Deans pigtail to come in the mail to do the final stuff.

Question... do I need to use the BEC? The Tekin ESC has an internal BEC so I haven't used it, but I've seen people install them just in case. Would this be a good idea, or would it be unnecessary?

I'm guessing once I get the battery leads on and get power to it, I then can program the ESC? Do I have anything left on the build that I'm missing? Or any suggestions that I could do differently!?! I'm all about constructive criticism! "thumbsup" LOL I have a SS screw kit that I'm gonna be slowly changing over to. Thanks everyone.

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I run an R2 in mine...works good. Had to shoehorn it in there, tight fit around the upper links.

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
 
Looking good!

I think you do need a BEC to run that high voltage servo to its full capacity, most people use a castle BEC but you will need a castle link to program the BEC to the appropriate voltage. Also… before you switch the voltage on the BEC, check how much voltage your radio receiver can handle so you don't fry it, use a Y splitter cable to bypass the radio if it won't handle the voltage.

I don't know about a 2 speed transmission (I'd rather spend the money on tires and foams) but if you got the extra bread you ought to consider a VP servo armor because they take a beating, the delrin skid is probably the best upgrade you can do but I would also recommend the upper link mounts for the axles. Both of those hop ups help with the triangulation of the links removing side to side play on the axles, it''ll track better at higher speeds. One last suggestion would be to find a way to protect your shocks or flip them upside down as they also take a lot of abuse.

Cheers
 
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