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MaX-D's Wroncho Build

But, when the right side is at full Flex, the right side link barely touches the cross brace. The left side doesn't touch at all. Maybe 1-2 mm of space. I may have to look for an alternative spot to mount the electronics. Thoughts?
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Do you have a flat piece of aluminum that you could bend to be vertical at the frame rails while still stretching horizontally between them? Kinda like a sheet metal shelf. You wouldn't have the thickness of your crossmembers to contend with then, and you could form it to be whatever height you wanted.

Another option would be to use 4 simple servo brackets (which I'm sure you've got some plastic ones sitting around somewhere) mounted on their sides (one set of holes against the frame rail, the other set facing up) inside the frame rails, with your plate bolted on top of those. That wouldn't gain any clearance right next to the rails, but the space where the links need to pass through would be wide open just like my above "shelf" idea.

With 4500kv on tap, I'm sure you WILL find both shocks compressed at the same time.
 
I do have a piece of aluminum that I can bend vertically and run it horizontally straight across. I've also got some Servo brackets as well. Thanks for the ideas. I'll play around with it tonight to see what works best.

Before you had answered my questions , I had thought about mounting the ESC on the transmission. I know The Wraith usually comes with a small, Square plastic plate if you will, that you can mount the ESC on top of the tranny. I like your ideas better.

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These are the cross braces that came with the BP chassis. These will actually work perfectly. More than enough room for the top links. I'll be using a thin piece of aluminum for the ESC and receiver to sit on. I made a template out of scrap lexan to drill the holes in the cross braces.
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Isn't it nice when something you already have solves a problem perfectly? That's almost exactly what I was thinking with the "shelf" idea. I've still got my eye on a BPC Bomber chassis for my Wraith, I just haven't decided if there will actually be any performance advantage so I'm following along with your build.
 
Isn't it nice when something you already have solves a problem perfectly? That's almost exactly what I was thinking with the "shelf" idea. I've still got my eye on a BPC Bomber chassis for my Wraith, I just haven't decided if there will actually be any performance advantage so I'm following along with your build.
Yes it is quite nice when something you have solves the problem. My goal is to get all the electronics mounted up and connected tonight, bind the radio and receiver, drive it around the house and torment my dogs with it.

My next issue is body posts. I'm thinking about using Pro-Line body posts with magnets. I used these monster Earth magnets on my TRX 4 sport and you just about need a crowbar to pry the body off. A second option is Velcro. I'm undecided.

My second issue is Rock sliders. I'll Mount the body up first, then see how wide I need the sliders to be

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I've been happy with velcro. Just enough grip to keep it mounted but not a pain to remove. It will pop off in a rollover but I kind of want it to to keep it from being damaged more than it needs to. Figured if it was a 1:1 rig and rolled you'd have worse things to worry about than having to pop the body back on lol.
 
I just haven't decided if there will actually be any performance advantage.

I'm anxious to see if there is any type of performance Advantage myself. My main reason for this build are two reasons;

1. I wanted easier access to the electronics without having to deal with the cage.

2. I wanted the ability to run various lexan bodies just because I think they look cool.

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I'm on the fence on how to set up the ESC and receiver. Picture one is the most logical for wire routing, but it puts the port for the program card on the back side making it difficult to access.

Picture two is just the ESC flipped around with the program card port on the front side for easier access.

Picture three I figured having the ESC on the driver side for more weight distribution since the motor is on the passenger side, but the pumpkins are also on the drivers side adding some weight.

Thoughts?
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How much does the esc weigh? Doesn't seem like it would be significant enough to throw the balance off. At least not compared to say a battery.
 
I was changing out the bearings on the front end and came acrossed this. I have no idea how this happened or what would cause it. A new set of Knuckles are on order
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It's a runner! Drove it around the house tormenting the dogs.
I'm using a Hobbywing v3.1 ESC that I pulled out of my 2wd TLR 22 SCT 2.0. I've never used it for crawling, but it has a crawler profile in it. I need to tweak the settings a bit. It doesn't have that super slow crawling ability like a brushed set up right now. It actually cogs a bit.
The punch settings go from 1-30. I turned it down from 25 to 5! It still wants to lerch a bit when you pull the trigger. I'm going to try it on 1.
If this ESC doesn't work out, I'm pulling it and the motor out and putting in a Hobbywing 1080 and a Holmes Hobby Trailmaster 540 35T or Crawlmaster 13T. I miss my Castle MMP. That thing was as smooth as a brushed set up. It's a shame it bought the farm.
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I will be painting the body this week and putting the rock sliders on. I'm unsure what would be the best way to mount the body. I could go with Pro-Line, axial or some variant body post with body clips, Velcro, or Earth magnets mounted on the proline body posts.
For guys running a truggy style cab only set up, do you just rely on the body posts up front to hold the body in place, or do you use some kind of Mount on the back of the body?
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For guys running a truggy style cab only set up, do you just rely on the body posts up front to hold the body in place, or do you use some kind of Mount on the back of the body?


I’m very curious about this too. I have a cab only and I haven’t really found a sturdy way to mount it.

I would imagine there’s something that goes on the back, but I have yet to find out.


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I need your opinion on the rock sliders. In this pic you can see that the sliders aren't lined up with the body, but I'm using the screws for the skid.
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In this pic, I moved them forward, but I would have to trim the front of the slider 1/2" or so because the tire rubs. The front of the slider is actually higher than rear.
Which would you choose?
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I think I figured out how to secure the rear of the body using small L-brackets. I don't know if I'll use magnets or velcro though?
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