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Mid engine class 3 buggy

Two different ways of mounting the servo. Since the rear axles approach is starting behind the axle I wanted the servo completely out of the way of the rocks. With the front axle the servo sits behind the axle so it's mounted lower.
 
Dinky rc makes a servo mount similar to my rear one. But itwouldn't work with my panhard bar. So i made one that is smaller.

Better pix of the rear.



 
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Dinky rc makes a servo mount similar to my rear one. But itwouldn't work with my panhard bar. So i made one that is smaller.

Liking the progress. "thumbsup"

Just FYI, the Dinky links are steel, and can be modified/welded to. I have done this on a couple occasions. You probably knew that and it looks like you do just fine making your own parts.
 
Yes. I could have cut and made the dinky one work. But since I had to alter it anyways I decided to make my own. The dinky ones are very solid. They use thicker material than I did. But mine don't budge, very solid.

Here is one I did for my c2. It works awesome with the xr mod and high steer.



 
Loving this build so much! Coming along nicely.

Just curious though as to what gauge you made the servo/winch mounts out of? I'm thinking something like this could work for my narrowed ar60s on my 1.9 u4 build. My dlux sporty truss setup is just too cramped and crushing my servo wires.
 
Thanks. I am pretty sure it's 16guage Steel. At first I was a little worried it would not be strong enough. But with good mounting points its plenty strong.
 
Loving this build so much! Coming along nicely.

Just curious though as to what gauge you made the servo/winch mounts out of? I'm thinking something like this could work for my narrowed ar60s on my 1.9 u4 build. My dlux sporty truss setup is just too cramped and crushing my servo wires.

I used 18ga to build my truss and servo mount on Slimer, my 1.9 build with ar60s I narrowed by 35mm. They're still just tacked, I have yet to fully braze them yet, but as they sit they hold up just fine.

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-Derek
 
in the next few days if the snow is gone I will post a video. Then it gets completely torn down and finished for Colorado.


I ran a comp today to test it out. It well .....really impressed me. It did things a scale truck should not have. Really happy with the motor.

Weight rtr is 5lb 10oz. But that is without paint and interior. So i am over my goal of 5.5lbs. I will have to figure out a way to shave a few more oz?
 
in the next few days if the snow is gone I will post a video. Then it gets completely torn down and finished for Colorado.


I ran a comp today to test it out. It well .....really impressed me. It did things a scale truck should not have. Really happy with the motor.

Weight rtr is 5lb 10oz. But that is without paint and interior. So i am over my goal of 5.5lbs. I will have to figure out a way to shave a few more oz?

Good to hear it is working well for ya so far. With rear steer it will be tough to keep it under 6 lbs but you will probably pull it off with how light your chassis is. I yanked my rear steer off for a bit and was under 6 lbs but with a 13.75" wheel base it was just not the same car as before so it went back on.

I use beef tubes in both axles, super heavy SS highland lockers,MIP shafts and an 8 oz cobalt brood axle buster and sit at 6 lbs 4 oz.

Maybe lighter links and tie rods? I also use alum and Ti hardware where I can, maybe shaves an oz is all though.

Good luck in Colorado "thumbsup"
 
Thanks. I run the t max shafts. They are strong enough and very light and smooth compared to the metal ones. Less drivetrain binding. You could save at least 3oz here.

Problem is I am about maxed out on shaving weight on the chassis. Maybe an ounce I could shave? So like you my links are about my only thing left to consider. I did DE case the mmp. And shortened most all my wires. Believe it or not that shaved almost 2 oz of weight. LOL

I don't want to lighten my axles/tires any more. Because right now having the axles\tires\wheels at 65% of my overall weight is really working great. Very little torque twist even on steep inclines with out my axles strapped.

10 wt oil in the shocks really settled things down compared to no oil. But i may try and go with even a lighter oil For better axle fall. Full droop set ups are a little harder to dial in.
 
Not much of an update. Working on panels. Should be almost finished with them tonight.

Practicing every single day until the Rocky Mountain Nats!

 
New driver. Besides I need all the points I can get. Got the temp panels cut And installed. Now to work on the interior.

I still can't figure out a color? Any suggestions would be great.






 
That driver is perfect proportions.

I would paint the chassis red or gold, and leave the panels raw aluminum.

Looks super, super capable, and cool!
 
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