MRC to LCC adapter thingies and shock mounts

[Erik D_lux]

Adapter for the LCC C to go onto the stock MRC axles. Absolutely no mods need to be done to the MRC axle to get this to work. All you would need to do is set your caster and then install the LCC C onto the MRC axle. Some may need to drill two holes for the mount to screw into the stock holes (screws not included). Pretty easy stuff.

$7 for a pair of adapters and screws to attach the C to the adapters

$15 for a pair of shock/link mounts for the front

$10 for a pair of shock/link mounts for the rear

DLUX FAB | Products

 

[Erik D_lux]

What are the benefits?

Ability to run knuckle weights
Infinite caster adjustment
MUCH stronger LCC C and knuckle
MUCH stronger steering arms and bolts
MUCH stronger LCC stub shaft
No more flex at the end of the axle housing
No more slop from the MRC knuckle bushings
Bigger bearings in the knuckle

Helpful into to complete the mod:

LCC stub shafts $8
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...CV-Axle/Detail

Knuckle weights $53
http://www.dluxfab.com/products

LCC C's and knuckles, plastic is overkill on these cars, AL would be bling $8
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...Carrier/Detail

Bearings and kingpins $10?
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...ng-Pins/Detail

JeremyH just pointed out that you can buy this kit for $39.95

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...it-cln-/Detail

I have installed one set and its amazing how the mounts really firmed up the end of the axle housing. Everything is sitting super tight and solid.

Here are a couple pictures.

 

[Erik D_lux]

Each install will be different according to what parts you are using. If you use the stock MRC inner shafts with the LCC stubs, you will need to grind the chub down so that the inner shafts are long enough and reach the locker. See Jeremy H's thread below.

You will still need to figure out your steering tie rods and drag links at the least.

Threads with some good info

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=326839&page=3

JeremyH's build

Starting at post #182

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270206

 

[onespeeder]

Mine worked like a champ! Definitely toughened up the front of my truck. The fit was so tight, I didn't have to drill the holes to screw into the axle casings. Once I installed the screws that hold the C's, it wasn't going anywhere.

And the $39.99 rear steer kit has everything you need to make the conversion.

Thanks Erik for possibly saving the 1.9 class!! "thumbsup"

Love the name too!!

 

[928darwin]

Nice "thumbsup" just ordered... now i can dust off the lcc :lmao:

 

[03kjrocky]

Order placed yesterday "thumbsup" (#1726551)


Thanks Eric

 

[ClassicGMJunkie]

order placed. thanx!! "thumbsup"

 

[Erik D_lux]

Thanks guys!

All sold out of the adapters. I am waiting on material and will be shipping again starting Thursday.

I have a couple knuckle weights left. If you are really wanting these I suggest ordering now. I am told it will be a couple of weeks until I get more but that usually means a month.

 

[EvilTwin v2]

I let my MRC go to Nationals with a friend. He bound it up so hard that it stripped out my rear axle and either stripped or broke the locker in my front axle, yet the C-Hub addapters and the link/shock mounts held perfectly. "thumbsup"

 

[brazwewn]

I've had this adaptor for a little while. Just got the electrical bugs worked out, so not much testing time. So far I am super impressed though. I think a few guys, in the local club, might be switching to this set up for next season. I want to go with the knuckle weights, but wasn't sure which wheels would fit the weights. Until I get better ones would the stock MRC plastic ones fit over the knuckle weights?

Wes

 

[53 willys]

I've had this adaptor for a little while. Just got the electrical bugs worked out, so not much testing time. So far I am super impressed though. I think a few guys, in the local club, might be switching to this set up for next season. I want to go with the knuckle weights, but wasn't sure which wheels would fit the weights. Until I get better ones would the stock MRC plastic ones fit over the knuckle weights?

Wes

pretty sure you would have to try and open the ID of the beadlock ring up to get them to fit a stock MRC wheel?? I have not tried it my self but when I compare the two I really dont think it will fit...?

 

[53 willys]

here is my take on this mod....I did it a bit diffrent then what others are doing...now ALL my link rod ends are the 3mm short traxxas ends!!"thumbsup"

and my stock MRC mounts are gone completly!!!:twisted:

one shot of the rear....

 

[Erik D_lux]

Thanks for replying with pics Mark! I am trying to find time to gather some info on Marks findings above.

On the wheels, I am not too sure to tell you what will/will not fit. I have not had enough feedback, sorry. I can tell you that the axial 8 hole will hold the main weight and more if youre willing to take some material out.

I should have some really cool news in the knuckle weight/wheel dept for the 1.9's soon:twisted:

 

[Erik D_lux]

I have a second so I will just type up some info real fast....

In 53 willys pics you can see that he figured out that you can use the shock mount in place of the adapter. So, the good news is that you can skip the adapter entirely on the front if you want to run the shock/link mount. It will serve the same purpose as the adapter. I do believe that he is running that shock/link mount without the set screws top/bottom, just a press fit as many are finding. You will still need to cut off your stock shock/link mounts to make this work. Again, you can run just the shock/link mount that I make or if you dont want to do that mod you will want just the adapter mount. Before it was thought that you needed both which is turning out to not be true. Oh, also another cool thing about running them this way is that you can clock your chub in increments with all those holes in the mounts. Before you would have to take the whole adapter off and do new set screw holes. On the shock/link mount you set it and forget it. :mrgreen:

53 also figured out that you can simply run these shock/link mounts on the rear. They are a simple slip on and then like the front, you need to cut the stock shock/link mounts off. He also went custom and set them in sideways to the lockouts. Another option would be to do just like the front and do set screws on the top and bottom. I dont have any pictures of the new shock/link mounts for the rear but they are a simple design that does not have all of the holes like the fronts do. You dont need the clocking ability as you just set them where you want anyway. This will really keep the cost down as most of the cost of the mounts are from all those tiny holes.

I hope this makes sense and is not too confusing. If there is any confusion at all please post up or PM me and I will see if I can clarify.

 

[JeremyH]

and my stock MRC mounts are gone completly!!!:twisted:

Nice! Yeah, I cut mine off as well....no need to leave that crap on there only to get hung up...

 

[brazwewn]

I cut mine off and took a dremel to it. Probably not necessary but it looks better.

Wes

 

[Erik D_lux]

Shock mounts now added to the website. Again, if youre planning on running the shock mounts, they can take place of the entire adapter and then the adapter is not needed.