My WK crawler budget build

[edman87k5]

I am in process of building my budget WK crawler. Here are some specs and pics:
Wheely king, new 3 weeks ago
Stretched to 11.25" wheelbase with traxxis rod ends mounted to 1/4" steel rod drilled and tapped with 6-32 bolt inserts-used 1" bolts and cut the heads off, traxxis driveshafts mounted to stock WK u joints: cost= $8 for the rod ends, $8 for the shafts, rest free
Stock servo relocated to front axle with a 3/32" stainless plate of my own design. Servo linkage from same pack of traxxis ends and a piece od 6-32 allthread with a blue plastic tubing sleeve over it.Also the plate has just over an ounce of flat tire weights bolted to it: cost= $1.50 for a 3' piece of alltrhead, had the rest of laying around
Stock motor, geared to 15/ 96: $7
Tires cut with dremel, 2oz stick on weight in both front rims, Body cut with scissors, diffs JB welded, rear sway bar removed, spring spacers removed: all free
That is all I can think of right now.
I do plan on changing up the axle mounts and bringing the wheelbase to 12.25" and upgrading the stock motor and servo
Pics are of the WK on a crap boddied stampede.

 

[juststartin]

looks good

 

[Maggster]

I am in process of building my budget WK crawler. Here are some specs and pics:
Wheely king, new 3 weeks ago
Stretched to 11.25" wheelbase with traxxis rod ends mounted to 1/4" steel rod drilled and tapped with 6-32 bolt inserts-used 1" bolts and cut the heads off, traxxis driveshafts mounted to stock WK u joints: cost= $8 for the rod ends, $8 for the shafts, rest free
Stock servo relocated to front axle with a 3/32" stainless plate of my own design. Servo linkage from same pack of traxxis ends and a piece od 6-32 allthread with a blue plastic tubing sleeve over it.Also the plate has just over an ounce of flat tire weights bolted to it: cost= $1.50 for a 3' piece of alltrhead, had the rest of laying around
Stock motor geares to 15/ 96: $7
Tires cut with dremel, Body cut with scissors, diffs JB welded, rear sway bar removed, spring spacers removed: all free
That is all I can think of right now.
I do plan on changing up the axle mounts and bringing the wheelbase to 12.25" and upgrading the stock motor and servo
Pics are of the WK on a crap boddied stampede.

So the rods are 1/4"solid? You just drilled and tapped the ends?

Truck looks good."thumbsup"

 

[execelon]

lookin good"thumbsup"

 

[edman87k5]

yup, rods are solid 1/4" with ends drilled and tapped for 6-32 inserts. It is what I had laying around before I got a chance to get to the hardware store for some allthread.
Thanks for the compliments. It will be further modified as time and money allows.

 

[Maggster]

Thats a pretty good idea with the solid rod. Did you use a lathe or drill press?

 

[edman87k5]

Cheapo drill press and hand tap. It was more work than the allthread, but should last through any bashing.

 

[SeanD]

edman87k5:

I am wondering why you removed the shock spacers. Doesn't this make the whole suspension wobbly and with a lot of body roll? Also, doesn't this INCREASE the amount of torque twist? I know when I was running my stock shocks, I pre-loaded them with close to 1" of plastic pipe - just to combat the horrible torque twist that occurs once you remove the rear cross brace!! If you did it for more articulation, just remember that excessive flex is not necessary and will work against you at certain times.

Your solid links remind me of the ones I made from aluminum. Mine were cut from 1/4 Al plate and then turned down to round out the profile. Then I drilled and tapped them to take the rod ends as well.

In this picture you will also see my "Hammerhead" design servo/battery mount. It works great!

 

[chrisjlittle]

How well do your tires work all cut up like that? I've heard of people narrowing the stock tires and siping them, even sanding down the sidewalls to get more flex out of them, I just wonder if it's worth the trouble.

 

[Maggster]

That mount looks good!

 

[SeanD]

Thanks. Don't mean to hyjack this thread. Here's link to a thread with a few more pics. Just scroll down about half way:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64145&page=11

Sean

 

[countryboy4life]

Yeah do those tires work good like that.:?:

 

[edman87k5]

Thanks for the comments.
The tires work rather well. I didn't do much to the sidewalls, but did thin out rest of the tire and the grab real well. They fold over anything smaller then the tread width. I plan to thin out the sidewall later to make them squish even more.
As for the shock spacers, 4 wheels touching ground is better than 3. The torque twist was bad already, didn't seem any worse afterwards. Removing them did't make it flex any more, just flex easier.
Does all that make any sense?

 

[Maggster]

How do you like the 11.25"wheel base? Have you ever though about making it was longer or do you like it where it is?

 

[edman87k5]

I like it where it is, but am going to bring iot to about 12.25" and try it out. I think it will get high-centered more with the stretch, but will otherwise be more stable. It will not cost me anything to do it, so I will try it out when I have time.
The 11.25" seems to be a good compromise of stability and high-cntering.
Keep in mind, I just crawl over things in the house, tools and such in my shop and some concrete blocks in the yard. Nothing even close to a pro course. It is getting better at backyard crawling with every mod!

 

[Jusstinno]

Stock motor, geared to 15/ 96: $7 both for $7? from where? if you dont mind me asking. Thanks great rig!

 

[Locked Up]

Are you not having problems with the stock servo arm? Mine started flexing the little clip that holds the two pieces together so I replaced it when I chaged servos .... course you could glue it I guess.

"thumbsup"

 

[Maggster]

All I intend to make is a basher / trail rig. I have been reading NickRummy's thread on his trail rig. I was just wondering if you preferred the shorter wheelbase.

Your truck looks good!"thumbsup"

I like it where it is, but am going to bring iot to about 12.25" and try it out. I think it will get high-centered more with the stretch, but will otherwise be more stable. It will not cost me anything to do it, so I will try it out when I have time.
The 11.25" seems to be a good compromise of stability and high-cntering.
Keep in mind, I just crawl over things in the house, tools and such in my shop and some concrete blocks in the yard. Nothing even close to a pro course. It is getting better at backyard crawling with every mod!

 

[countryboy4life]

The longer the wheelbase the better, especially in crawling."thumbsup" I think.:roll:

All I intend to make is a basher / trail rig. I have been reading NickRummy's thread on his trail rig. I was just wondering if you preferred the shorter wheelbase.

Your truck looks good!"thumbsup"

 

[edman87k5]

I do plan on extending the wheelbase, but havn't yet so I have nothing to compare the 11.25" to except stock. 11.25" is waaaay better, maybe 12+ will be even better for me, maybe not. I have everything to do it already, so I will give it a shot and see how I like it.
I figured $7 for pinion and spur because the pinion was under $4 at the LHS and I bought 5 spurs for $12 shipped on ebay- 2-96, 2 93 and 1 90.
Stock servo arm and all are doing fine so far, just need more power to turn the wheels. I have ordered the mg945 a day or so ago from jpcustoms, waiting on it to come in. I might make some nes steering rods when I mount it, just depends.
Once again, thanks for all the positive comments. This is my first real RC in many years! The 1/16th nylint got me wanting a real crawler!