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Need help bending aluminum

schlabinski

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Jan 29, 2004
Messages
245
Location
Bend, OR
I am trying to reproduce this skidplate with 1/16" 6061 aluminum, but with longer dimensions.

4036532266_253ec3be92.jpg


I was practicing the 90 degree bends and I am getting some cracking on the outside of the bend. I used a bench vise and a piece of wood and sometimes a hammer. Does anyone have any advice?

Thanks in advance,
Jeff
 
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Re: Need help bendin g aluminum

anneal it...heat it with a torch (I use Mapp gas but propane will work, get it glowing) and let it slowly cool and it will bend without cracking.
 
Re: Need help bendin g aluminum

Make sure your bends are not goin with the "grain". You will have to turn the whole piece so that its at a 45 degree angle to the grain to be able to bend that piece without cracks at your bends. If you still cant get it, lay out a piece where you want the bends, and mail it to me and Ill bend it for ya. I have an aviation metal shop at my disposal..........
 
Re: Need help bendin g aluminum

If you send that to me or with Toyo I can have that done for next to nothing. I have 2 break presses among other toys to play with. 8)

16ga. ? are ya shure?? :twisted:
 
Re: Need help bendin g aluminum

Here's another option I recently heard (from Texrok btw) that I had to say.

Freeze it.

It goes against what one usually thinks but Texrok informed that it will work with aluminum. Haven't tried it myself yet so I can't say from experience.



In my skidplate I bent, I used mapp gas. I put it in a vice, heated till red hot and voila, folded over no prob.
 
Re: Need help bendin g aluminum

I know this might not be the best method, but I use a hammer and a vise. I have had no problems yet but you only get one shot at it. If I try to bend it back to correct it at all it starts to crack.

Good luck.
 
Re: Need help bendin g aluminum

I know it sounds crazy, but as c-man said, try freezing it.

Put it in the freezer for an hour or two and then try to work with it. Also see if you can find a bend radius chart for aluminum. You may be trying to put to tight of a bend in to thick of a piece. Once you bend it though, don't try to bend it back. You might be able to find a bend radius chart online. I could not locate mine or could of just told you.

If any of you are old aircraft mechs, you have probably heard of, or used the old "ice box rivets". "Ice box rivets" were aluminun rivets that were made from a very hard alloy. They had to remain frozen until you were ready to use them. Something in the molecular structure made them easier to shoot and buck the rivets while in the frozen state. Then when they work hardened and heated back up they were very hard.

Willeyrocket may be familar with these. It sound like he's an ol' tin binder, same as me. I have spent some years working on old P-3 Orions. These planes came from the factory with "ice box rivets"in some of the more structurally demanding areas where hi-loks and huck bolts were not used. I know I'm rattling off aircraft terms and some of you don't have a clue as to what I just said, just take my word for it. LOL

Nobody uses "ice box rivets" anymore due to newer and cheaper alloys which are just as hard after working them and do not require being frozen. I know that is a long drawn out explaination for what you were asking, but I have tried the freezing method on some .080 2024 T6 and it bent with no problem. If you can help it, try not to bend it with the grain as said earlier. Give it a try, it might wor for you.

Good luck.
 
Wow, thank you for all of the advice and offers of help! I still have a bit of scrap to play with, so I will experiment with freezing and heating, and pay attention to the grain. I was probably trying to bend it too sharply as well...

Dude, is 1/16 too thick? The one that I am trying to replicate looks like the same thickness as the .090" that I bought, but I figured I would try to get the design correct with the .064" first.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions. I'll post a pic of the final result when I am done.

-jeff
 
I'm no expert in sheet metal but bending 6061T6 w/o cracking will be tough. Dunno if anealing would work but I'd try that.

The part your trying to duplicate might be a different alloy/condition that bends easier.

Found this on the net:
Annealing should be done at 775 F for 2 to 3 hours followed by controlled cooling at 50 f per hour down to 500 F, then air cool

So looks like loooooong slow cooling would be the key.
 
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