Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
That’s why I suggested the little eFlite charger. Not something that doesn’t directly fit. You can use some paper clips to charge in a pinch. I wouldn’t make it a habit though.
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New Axial scx 24 deadbolt
- Thread starter Stangman66$
- Start date
That’s why I suggested the little eFlite charger. Not something that doesn’t directly fit. You can use some paper clips to charge in a pinch. I wouldn’t make it a habit though.
Jackalo626
Rock Stacker
Nah definitely not interested in that but we got a member here who saved the day.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Jackalo626
Rock Stacker
Eflight balance charger link is what I bought that is not a direct fit.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Will I tried to install my new corona servo. The length is 24.5mm. 20mm from mount tab to bottom. The stock servo is 12mm. What is everyone doing to fit these bigger servos? I could cut the back out on the servo mount but then it will hit the upper link mount. I could space it out the front but then it would not clear
The front bumper
Maybe it’s time for somebody to design a CMS
The front bumper
Maybe it’s time for somebody to design a CMS
I think one of the more important factors on selecting a servo is the distance to the mounting tabs. I made a few larger servos fit but they only measured 14-15mm to the tabs and I just needed longer screws and to use the provided spacers (from the servo which was a Eco Power 640T). The spacers also made it so I could reuse the same size screws, they were longer and came from the rear hinge I believe (after I swapped it with my 3D printed version which only needed short screws which in turn came from removing the battery tray, lol).
Since your servo mounting tabs are so much farther I dont really know what can be done.
As for designing something to fix this I was thinking a new servo mount could fix this possibly. Make it open on the back side so servo length and mount tab locations aren't as big of an issue. Then put the link mounts lower and turn it into a 4 link front end which would be another plus.
Ideally this would use the spare links they provide so special links aren't required. But this is only a idea at this point I haven't done any legwork and dont have a need for it so I'm not sure if I'll get around to it.
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I think one of the more important factors on selecting a servo is the distance to the mounting tabs. I made a few larger servos fit but they only measured 14-15mm to the tabs and I just needed longer screws and to use the provided spacers (from the servo which was a Eco Power 640T). The spacers also made it so I could reuse the same size screws, they were longer and came from the rear hinge I believe (after I swapped it with my 3D printed version which only needed short screws which in turn came from removing the battery tray, lol).
Since your servo mounting tabs are so much farther I dont really know what can be done.
As for designing something to fix this I was thinking a new servo mount could fix this possibly. Make it open on the back side so servo length and mount tab locations aren't as big of an issue. Then put the link mounts lower and turn it into a 4 link front end which would be another plus.
Ideally this would use the spare links they provide so special links aren't required. But this is only a idea at this point I haven't done any legwork and dont have a need for it so I'm not sure if I'll get around to it.
So what is the distance of the tabs on the 640t?
Looks like I am headed to AMain on Sunday for a new servo
And harbor freight to get me a cheap dremil to notch the bumper.
What size screws are those. Got to find those too lol
This sucks trying to build stuff when you working out of town. I got nothing but a t wrench and a Allen wrench lol
The tabs are 14-15mm, they list all the dimensions on the product page as well https://www.amainhobbies.com/ecopow...digital-sub-micro-servo-trx4-ecp-640t/p859667
As for notching the bumper to make it fit, I'm using a 3D printed bumper so I cant say whether the stock bumper will clear with some notching or not.
EDIT: I just mocked up the stock bumper mount and it clears though the bumper will need some trimming, but I'm fairly sure it can be made to work. It might not require a Dremel to notch, All I used was a utility knife to notch mine.
Size of the screws...thats a good question. I've tried to figure that out and I still have no Idea, they dont match up to any of my spare screws.
One idea might be to steal the long screws that connect the body hinge to the bumper mount, these can be used to mount the servo. Then if you can find a tiny wire maybe from a twist tie, run it through the hinge and secure it, Or maybe the short screws that fasten the stock servo will work here temporarily.
Oh and one other thing to keep in mind is the servo horn provided with the 640T has the holes at the wrong distance compared to stock and the holes are too big unless you can round up a nut or something. I drilled a new hole (1mm-ish) sort of offset and in between the other holes to get it in the same spot as stock.
As for notching the bumper to make it fit, I'm using a 3D printed bumper so I cant say whether the stock bumper will clear with some notching or not.
EDIT: I just mocked up the stock bumper mount and it clears though the bumper will need some trimming, but I'm fairly sure it can be made to work. It might not require a Dremel to notch, All I used was a utility knife to notch mine.
Size of the screws...thats a good question. I've tried to figure that out and I still have no Idea, they dont match up to any of my spare screws.
One idea might be to steal the long screws that connect the body hinge to the bumper mount, these can be used to mount the servo. Then if you can find a tiny wire maybe from a twist tie, run it through the hinge and secure it, Or maybe the short screws that fasten the stock servo will work here temporarily.
Oh and one other thing to keep in mind is the servo horn provided with the 640T has the holes at the wrong distance compared to stock and the holes are too big unless you can round up a nut or something. I drilled a new hole (1mm-ish) sort of offset and in between the other holes to get it in the same spot as stock.
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Thanks for the helpful information!!!
Yea I could wire up the mount and use the screws
I’ll have to see what I can find in the way of small drill bits
svt923
I wanna be Dave
This crazy dude is the hero we all need. :lmao:
If you can't tell, that is a Holmes 380 Revolver.
If you can't tell, that is a Holmes 380 Revolver.
punkindrublik
Quarry Creeper
:twisted::twisted::twisted:
Budman
Newbie
Who’s taking bets on what breaks first? I say driveshafts?
punkindrublik
Quarry Creeper
My wallet...
Budman
Newbie
I see a set of punisher drive shafts from RC4WD . https://store.rc4wd.com/Punisher-Shafts-118-42mm--50mm-157--196-3mm-Hole_p_4958.html. Can’t say they would work but I can say I’d like you to succeed, and then copy what you did. Best of Luck! Keep us updated!
halfcab
RCC Addict
There are a few motor options out there that are a few mmm longer that should have more torque, but don't fit due to the upper link mounts, any of you 3d printer guys want to try to make a skid with a 3mm higher mount for the trans? I'm not a fan of moving weight higher but unless someone wants to make a 3 gear trans to fit larger motors??????
Lots of great ideas on here"thumbsup"
Lots of great ideas on here"thumbsup"
punkindrublik
Quarry Creeper
What motor options are you referring to? You have me intrigued...
halfcab
RCC Addict
A few of the 1\24 crawlers use basically the same size motor, just a few mm longer, it's the length that ruins it. They hit the upper link mount. You will need to add new mounting h olds to the motor plate for some of the options I have found.
One was from the Lodi micro something or other and I found some helicopter motors also, just in the longer cans.
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punkindrublik
Quarry Creeper
Can you point me to a specific example? I'd like to see what I'm working with. I'm looking around right now and the best I can come up with is it's a 180 size, is that correct?
Looking at the thing in front of me, I see a little room behind the motor.
BashNSlash
Quarry Creeper
I noticed the stock battery indicates a 1C charge is 0.35A,but the stock charger charges at 1.5A... [emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]
I don't charge any of my batteries including 5000mah 3s packs at 1C, for various reasons.
Should we be concerned at all?
I don't charge any of my batteries including 5000mah 3s packs at 1C, for various reasons.
Should we be concerned at all?
I noticed the stock battery indicates a 1C charge is 0.35A,but the stock charger charges at 1.5A... [emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]
I don't charge any of my batteries including 5000mah 3s packs at 1C, for various reasons.
Should we be concerned at all?
Bash,
Somewhat simplified, but the charge rate is for 8.4 volts so the recommended rate is roughly 3 watts. Based on 80% efficiency, which is probably pretty high for this cheapo charger, means we need 3.6 watts to charge at 1C. The USB will supply 5 volts and we get rough .75 amps. So your tested current is quite high and corresponds to a 2C rate.
To your question, we would need to test my Numbers by checking the current after the charger. While I do have the means to test this I am afraid I threw out the charger shortly after purchase.
I've shelved the charger as I also noticed this, only in a very unscientific way. The stock charger is much faster at charging than my HiTec charger which is set to charge at .3 amps. The stock charger is done in around 30 minutes roughly but when charged on my HiTec its more like 45 minutes. So I can tell its using more amps than called for to charge at 1C.
I dont think we need to get much more hi tech with this to investigate, its seems pretty clearly off.
I think we probably should be concerned about this. Between the LVC not working and the charger pushing too many amps these batteries might be getting damaged. Lipo fires are typicaly caused by using the wrong charge settings so I'd say this is pretty darn important.
I guess shame on me for not contacting Axial. I'm too used to fixing stuff myself even when its covered by the manufacture.
I dont think we need to get much more hi tech with this to investigate, its seems pretty clearly off.
I think we probably should be concerned about this. Between the LVC not working and the charger pushing too many amps these batteries might be getting damaged. Lipo fires are typicaly caused by using the wrong charge settings so I'd say this is pretty darn important.
I guess shame on me for not contacting Axial. I'm too used to fixing stuff myself even when its covered by the manufacture.
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