punkafi888
Rock Stacker
how could i get better performance from my ax10 out of the box. with out buying anything.
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
out of the box scorp
- Thread starter punkafi888
- Start date
Unholy
I wanna be Dave
Well... first things that come to mind are a motor, esc, servo and Rx and Tx.
You'll see an immediate improvement over just the stuff that came in the box.
You'll see an immediate improvement over just the stuff that came in the box.
punkafi888
Rock Stacker
i have it put together with a 75t motor a pos futaba servo, fusion v2 4200, and my old m8 radio setup. i was meaning the suspension and weight distribution of the assembled ax10. i do appologise about the miss understanding. i bought it yesterday and assembeled it last night. i have been building radio controlled cars since i was almost 9.
ScorpioCrawler
Pebble Pounder
spacers on the inside of the shocks rather than the outside like the manual says
madmaxxed
Quarry Creeper
go to the home page and scroll down a bit. there is a good write up for how to improve the performance of your ax10. that might be helpful...
What battery you got? Make 2 packs out of it to place on either side of the servo. GREAT upgrade for weight placement.
Take that 75t apart and wind it to a 30-35 turn. A 75 turn is just STUPIDLY way to slow.:lol: I run a 850kv Crawlmaster on a 3 cell lipo and it's a very good blance between low speed power and wheelspeed for bumping up ledges. My sons AX-10 runs a 35 turn on 8 cells and it's got a great balance as well. It's REAL fun on a 3 cell lipo though"thumbsup"
The AX-10 chassis is IMHO,to wide. Skinny up the chassis to about 2" wide and triangulate the lower links.
punkafi888
Rock Stacker
i just got the 75 cause i was going to put it in my lathe but i wanted to try it in the truck and see how much torque it would have. i want to get the bent links and the wheel weights on my next check, along with a new esc cause i am running my old gt7 and its not fairing up to what the ax10 needs. a lot of you guys have been a big help. BIG help! i am going to wright up a good tutorial for the ax10 out of the box build i have been going through a lot of my old jeeps and blazer builds and comparing the suspension setups and found a few interesting things i am going to try. if it works well or not scaled down we will see.
jetboat
I wanna be Dave
75t too slow???? All the Ax10's I have seen with 55t seem like rock racers.
A brushless setup would help, as would Lipo (personal opinion). Speaking of Battery, move it from the stock location. Put some M2K tires on there, seems like the stockers get slick when they get dirt on them. Some BB's or lead in the front tires will help climbing. Removing all that Green seems to help it perform better also.
A brushless setup would help, as would Lipo (personal opinion). Speaking of Battery, move it from the stock location. Put some M2K tires on there, seems like the stockers get slick when they get dirt on them. Some BB's or lead in the front tires will help climbing. Removing all that Green seems to help it perform better also.
insanerc
RCC Addict
You said without spending any money unless I read wrong???
raptorman57 hit an a couple of freebie mods. If you can solder split that battery pack up, if your running the standard 6 cell, 7.2 volt pack. Make it 3 cells on one side of the front axle, and three on the other side. Just pay attention when you take it apart, so you put it back together with your positive and negative poles in the correct place. He also said narrow up the chassis. You can do this (which is good) but it's going to take a little work. You probably won't be able to use the skid plate that comes with the kit, but if you have an old cutting board (not wood, lol), you can cut a piece the size you need. With the AX-10 tranny and chassis plates you will most likely run into another problem; fitting the trans inside of the chassis plates once narrowed. You can notch out one of the side chassis plates so that the motor extends about halfway over the side, but be sure and brace the top of that plate if you do. I take no responsibility for any modifications:twisted: If you can get it narrow enough however I would move the top of the shocks to the outside of the chassis, and use short standoffs.
The next thing to do is get rid of those ridiculously wide, side body post. The way they are made with the hex shaped base you can drill through them and make top body mounts. Here's a huge difference, otherwise you'll be getting hung up on those all of the time.
This is just a matter of preference, but I wouldn't worry about trying to triangulate the lower links until I had some money to spend on parts. What you can do though, is move the lower links inbound at the skid, so you don't have those sticking out there to get hung up. When you get some money dump the three link setup, and then go with the standard 4 link, or triangulated upper 4 link.
You may be able to flip your shocks upside down to lower your c.o.g. a little, but you'll need to mess around with the lower mounting to make sure it doesn't bind throughout it's range of motion.
David
Xtreme Rc Hobbies
raptorman57 hit an a couple of freebie mods. If you can solder split that battery pack up, if your running the standard 6 cell, 7.2 volt pack. Make it 3 cells on one side of the front axle, and three on the other side. Just pay attention when you take it apart, so you put it back together with your positive and negative poles in the correct place. He also said narrow up the chassis. You can do this (which is good) but it's going to take a little work. You probably won't be able to use the skid plate that comes with the kit, but if you have an old cutting board (not wood, lol), you can cut a piece the size you need. With the AX-10 tranny and chassis plates you will most likely run into another problem; fitting the trans inside of the chassis plates once narrowed. You can notch out one of the side chassis plates so that the motor extends about halfway over the side, but be sure and brace the top of that plate if you do. I take no responsibility for any modifications:twisted: If you can get it narrow enough however I would move the top of the shocks to the outside of the chassis, and use short standoffs.
The next thing to do is get rid of those ridiculously wide, side body post. The way they are made with the hex shaped base you can drill through them and make top body mounts. Here's a huge difference, otherwise you'll be getting hung up on those all of the time.
This is just a matter of preference, but I wouldn't worry about trying to triangulate the lower links until I had some money to spend on parts. What you can do though, is move the lower links inbound at the skid, so you don't have those sticking out there to get hung up. When you get some money dump the three link setup, and then go with the standard 4 link, or triangulated upper 4 link.
You may be able to flip your shocks upside down to lower your c.o.g. a little, but you'll need to mess around with the lower mounting to make sure it doesn't bind throughout it's range of motion.
David
Xtreme Rc Hobbies
