• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

parma faskolor paints

Wicked_Jester

RCC Addict
Joined
May 24, 2006
Messages
1,048
Location
nor-cal
about how much paint is needed per body? Im buying an airbrush to paint my next scale body, and I dont want to buy way to much, or not enought paint!!
 
Depends on how many colors you use. For a simple one color body. You probably will not use more than 1/3 of a bottle!
 
For acrylic paints (like Faskolors) you should spray at about 45psi or higher. They are thicker and require higher pressures. Lacquers (like Pactra) can be sprayed lower because of how thin they are and how fast they dry.
 
For acrylic paints (like Faskolors) you should spray at about 45psi or higher. They are thicker and require higher pressures. Lacquers (like Pactra) can be sprayed lower because of how thin they are and how fast they dry.

At what psi does faskolor(acrylic) paints spray best ie; lower psi like around 50 or a higher psi like 65 or 70??
 
Did you not read what you just quoted? He told you right there in the text.

he said 45 or higher, Im asking around what psi in that range does it spray best at!! If you spray the same paint at 50psi and at 70psi with a single action airbrush you will get 2 different effects!!
 
It depends on a lot of things... brand, how thinned, color (ie metallic, pearl, candy), and what material you are spraying on. A good starting point for out of the bottle Faskolor paints on Lexan I would say start around 50-60psi, but then again that can still vary on the above mentioned parameters. You'll just have to practice and play around with the air pressure. After a while you'll get the hang of using the paints and what psi to run each color. Or more accurately what psi to run at with each paints consistency.
 
Last edited:
i completely did it wrong then, i used water in faskolor because it is water based and thined it, lowered the psi and it came out alright, i think? i was afraid of taking the brush above 25 psi. next time i will kick it up though.

thanks
 
i completely did it wrong then, i used water in faskolor because it is water based and thined it, lowered the psi and it came out alright, i think? i was afraid of taking the brush above 25 psi. next time i will kick it up though.

thanks

Don't use water to thin out your Faskolor paints. Use Windex (without Ammonia). The soap in the Windex will lower the surface tension of the paint making it spray smoother and easier. Windex essentially makes the paint "wetter". Does that make sense? If not here's a quick explanation. When you spray the paint in a fine mist (or any type of mist for that matter) the water molecules on the outside surface of the droplets have a natural tendency to be attracted to one another. By adding soap (or Windex because it doesn't foam much when sprayed) you break that natural attraction thus making the mist spray even finer. It's like when you wash your car. Next time take note of how the water with the soap sheets off your car. Then when you rinse, notice how the water now beads. It's that "surface tension" or attraction that causes the water to form beads. Sorry for the Mr. Science moment, but I figured it'll help explain to everyone. :lol:

Don't worry about the blue color having an affect on the paint either. It won't change the color enough to notice.
 
Last edited:
Actually I have had quite a bit of experience with FASKOLOR paints and the only constant conclusion I can give is test and practice.

OGmicro is dead on when he says there are a lot of factors to consider. There is the airbrush and whether it is single or double action, humidity, temperature, compressor.......

I have had good results thinning with water, however Windex helps it to spray smoother. I have also been able to spray at lower psi with heavy thinning, this takes more paitience though as the paint will spray in lighter coats. I have also tried alcohol to compesate for the humid climate I live in but that cause tip drying on the airbrush.

So thin your paint slightly and test on some scrap. If you don't get the results you want change one parameter and test again. Read some basic airbrush troubleshooting (found on the web through Google) so you know what you need to change. After some trial and error you should find what works best for your set up...I wish I could give you a magic formula but with variations in brushes, compressors and whatnot that's impossible.

Good Luck!
 
Anybody know how to make an airbrush splatter? I'm gonna try to simulate the same thing Proline did on their 80 chevy, the dirty windshield. I'm new to airbrushing so thats why I need some tips.
Thanks,
Tom
 
Hold a buisness card or something similar in front of the airbrush at an angle allowing the paint to hit the card first then splater on to what you are painting.
 
Anybody know how to make an airbrush splatter? I'm gonna try to simulate the same thing Proline did on their 80 chevy, the dirty windshield. I'm new to airbrushing so thats why I need some tips.
Thanks,
Tom

If you're looking for splatter, use a old toothbrush, get the tip wet with paint then pull the bristles back, letting them 'flick' the paint.

Do it on a test piece of cardboard first, see how it looks, then see where you want to be in relation to the body to get accurate looking 'mud'

Good luck "thumbsup"
 
Also you can freeze the can for a short while and it will splater on it like you want. Try that.
 
Back
Top