Both look incredible! Awesome job like always! "thumbsup"
I'd definitely appreciate any tips.
I already like the way you're doing it - paint the inside of the bed silver and the the wood on the outside.
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Proline Power Wagon
- Thread starter JatoTheRipper
- Start date
Both look incredible! Awesome job like always! "thumbsup"
I'd definitely appreciate any tips.
I already like the way you're doing it - paint the inside of the bed silver and the the wood on the outside.
I'll try and describe this as best as I can. My process is as follows:
1. Paint the "hump" black (or whatever color you want) from the inside (I only choose the inside because its easy to mask off and its a lot less taping).
2. Paint the inside of the body silver. Whatever color you choose here will be the color of the metal bed strips. If you wanted, you could even do black, or a mixture of bronze/silver for a bit of a weathered look.
3. Because I paint my bodies on the outside, I then use a new Xacto blade to cut the protective film around the outside of all the wood floor area. Be VERY careful here not to cut into the plastic, a simple graze of the blade along the film usually is enough for a clean cut. Practice on some trimmed material first.
4. I then remove the protective film on the outside of the body (NOT the wood floor area - we need that protected still) and then paint the body color on the rest of the bed (on the outside). If you painted the rest of the body on the inside, leave this protective film on and skip to step 5.
5. Once the paint dries, I remove the protective film from the floor area. I have tried cutting the film around the metal strips and the sides of the bed instead of masking, but its difficult to see your cuts and you won't get it as straight as using tape. It is possible, but is difficult.
**at this point, you should have your final body color done on the bed, including the fender wells, and a completely silver (or whatever color you painted in step 2) bed (floor and metal strips).
6. I start the floor detailing process by masking the metal strips. I use Tamiya yellow masking tape, which always provides a VERY sharp, clean leak-proof edge. You can buy it in various widths, one of which is fairly close to the width of the metal strips. I have also used their vinyl tape which is more made for curves as it stretches, which means that its a little more difficult to get straight (masking tape doesn't stretch). Either will work, but I recommend masking tape.
Basically you mask each one, ensuring the tape is on nice and straight, and centred on the metal strip as best as you can. This takes the longest out of all the steps in the process, but is worth taking your time on. I always use a strip of tape longer than the piece I am masking which allows for easy handling as you place the tape. Once its on straight, simply extend the tape up the head/tailgate. These will be trimmed after.
7. Once all the strips are taped, I trim them where the strip ends at the head/tailgates and the "hump" that was painted in Step 1.
**at this point, your metal strips should all be yellow masking tape**
8. I then use wider masking tape (0.5" approximately) to mask off the insides of the bed (headgate, tailgate, bed sides, and fender wells).
**at this point, you should only see the lexan where the wood color will be. The metal strips and the rest of the bed will all be masked!**
9. Paint the bed floor whatever shade of brown you want. Think about the look you want - lighter wood with darker grain is what I like, so this first step is a lighter shade of brown
10. Once that dries, I hand paint the wood grain detail using a very fine brush (the finer the brush, the more intricate the grains, and vice versa. A wider brush will have thicker grain lines). I typically start with the darkest shade of brown that I will use, and then go over the same lines with a couple lighter shades, just as highlights. I try to make each board unique, switching up patterns, space between grains, etc. Simply google wood bed floors for some graining ideas. Knots, patterns, there is a ton of detail you can do to obtain realism. Try your best to find one you like and mimic it.
One thing I suggest is painting your grain line onto the masking tape, as when you peel the tape, the lines will end, just like they do on the real thing.
11. Peel all the tape and you are DONE. If you want to protect your creation, throw a coat of clear coat on.
Hope that helps. A video would have been much easier but I didn't think of that this weekend!
Last edited:
2mtech
RCC Addict
^^ To be sure this is a process I'd love to observe.
