Questions from a new Bully owner

[Minoa]

Hello community, new owner of a used Bully here. I pulled the trigger on a used Bully and immediately had buyer's remorse. Was wanting a crawler and got impatient. I would have bought a kit but didn't want to piece it together due to inexperience. No problem, I'll get the RTR! After doing research on it, the stock electronics didn't leave me with much confidence so here I am...

I bid on a Bully on eBay and got it for $417. It came with a Savox sc1256tg servo, axial extenders, some pink dot "Rover-EX" tires on aluminum wheels (not sure what brand, "HB" maybe?), a dig unit ( not sure what brand), 2 Integy 27T motors, a dual motor ESC (again, not sure what brand), 2 brand new Bully axials, an E-flite Thunderpower 3s lipo (not sure what mAh), and a 6v turbo BEC.

So here's where the questions start...

1. I'm not sure if I got a Bully1 or Bully 2. What's the differences between the 2? Can I tell the difference by looking at them? It didn't come with a manual.

2. How can I tell what kind of Bully axials I have? They look brand new, not a scratch on them.

3. Is there some universal rod ends I can grab that fit both a Bully 1 and Bully 2? The 2 lower rear links came broke. They are angled.

4. Are bodies universal between the Bully 1 and Bully 2? Maybe body is the wrong term, I guess I mean like an exo skeleton versus a shell.

5. Can I run dual ESCs on a Flysky FS-GT3C?

Overall, I'm not thrilled with the truck. A half dozen screws are missing from the beadlock rims, the 2 broken links, a home brew body frame that's not pretty, and the immediate buyer's remorse have left me an unhappy noob. It's my fault, I usually do my research on purchases like this. At this point, I'm just looking to get this thing rolling on a budget. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[84yoda]

Some pictures of the rig or a link to ebay bid to see what you got would be nice.

Otherwise, these are B2 axles;
Front: Bully 2 Competition Crawler Front Axle
Rear: Bully 2 Competition Crawler Rear Axle

And B2 RTR: RC4WD Bully II MOA RTR Competition Crawler

 

[Minoa]

Yeah those are definitely not the axials I have or the chassis for that matter. I'm a new member, can I post pictures?

 

[Minoa]

Ok after googling some pictures, it's obvious I have just a Bully. The side view of the chassis is a trapazoid with Bully in silver. I also found pics of what looks to be my axials, still not sure of what brand though. The are gunmetal colored with a clear plastic cover over holes to see the pinion gears. They seem to be heavy duty but then again, what do I know?! Haha. Also, they are missing some screws here and there. The rear shocks are installed upside down, any idea why that might be besides incompetence? They also look very cheap, almost toy grade. I'm not an inexperienced RCer but new to crawlers, it looks like a total teardown and rebuild to me... Not what I wanted to be honest but that's what I get for being impatient I guess.

 

[84yoda]

Yes you can post pictures, just upload through flicker or imgur or use the app for the site, tapatalk.

 

[Minoa]

I looked into the truck some more, I'm going to assume that I have a regular Bully. What version of that, if there is more than one, I have no clue. It has Sparks shocks, what looks like the Z-C0016 chassis, and the new axials look like either RWDZ-A0020 or the lightweight version.

Assuming I have the Bully, what size of bent M3 rod ends do I need? The part number for the rod ends in the manual I found was X-0276 but that doesn't seem to be a part number any longer. Google brought up other bent M3 rod ends with different part numbers. There was short and medium lengths listed. Which would a regular stock Bully use?

 

[Minoa]

Finally got to dig into the truck. Seems I have the stock electronics. I have a couple more questions for the community...

1. What's the length of the stock upper links, front and back? The truck came with 3 different lengths of links. Does link length matter?

2. Can I forgo the dig unit if I run dual ESCs?

3. Can the Flysky FS-GT3C operate dual ESCs?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[84yoda]

You will have to search for link lengths since that chassis and axles are older. But if your going to comp then yes link lengths are important (lowers). The wheel base is 12.5" max, through out the whole suspension cycle. Upper link lengths depend how much you want your motors clocked up. So if you like how your axles are sitting then measure one and get all the same. If there straight, you can buy single 3/16" Ti links from VP.

Yes, you can ditch the dig switch if you run dual escs.

Im not sure but theres a ton of info on this site about flysky remotes so you can search that on here too.

 

[Minoa]

Thanks for the help. Couple more questions.

1. I'm thinking of running dual ESCs. Looking for "most bang for my buck". Any recommendations for ESCs?

2. The truck came with 2 Integy 27T motors. Is the turn too low? Again, any motor recommendations?

3. Question about "clocking" the motors. I'm assuming by clocking the motors, you are turning the axials so the motors tilt into the frame, essentially giving the truck more clearance? If not, feel free to enlighten me.

 

[Hal]

Yes "clocking" is rotating the axle. If you rotate the front too much you will have to change the caster back by rotating the C hubs, top to the back. It is common to rotate the Chubs back anyway. It helps climbing and turning. I personally like Tekin FXR good solid performer and easy to set up. I run a Airtronics (Sanwa) MT4s it is a real easy radio to learn and it has a lever to dial in front and rear dig. It is totally programable for dig bias with lever while you drive. The only thing you might have pro lems with are if you run 4s. It will smoke the esc if you dont go to a bigger capacitor, run a cap for both dont combine and use one. Its not a bad crawler and there is a lot of info on this site. Look at the Bully Bible sticky and it describes all the different axles. Good luck"thumbsup"