TownsendTdi
Quarry Creeper
Rc4wd d90- now with Team Brood mini motor! 
Edit- swapped sumo motor for Team Brood mini crawler motor, check bottom of page.
I put a few pics in the "new rc4wd micro" thread but it's spread over 10+ pages, so I'll put all the info here if anyone is interested.
You can get pretty good increase in suspension travel by moving the lower links to the inside of the axle mounting bracket and modifying the stock shocks, but if you want it to flex like one of the micro crawlers we're all familiar with- here's a good solution.
The Redcat Sumo crawler balls have 2mm threads so they screw into the axle bracket. Only a few threads are exposed after going through the frame rails, not enough for the nylon lock-nut part to work, so make sure you use loc-tite. I will thin the rails a hair where they mount if one ever comes loose. I'm not aware of any balls with longer 2mm threads, if any exist please share! The rod ends take 2-56 threaded rod, I covered them with 1/8" x .014" wall aluminum tube.
It's crazy how restrictive the stock links' rod ends are! After:
Just as much as a Losi-based rig:
The stock shocks certainly don't extend far enough though. Instead, I used Losi Mini Desert Truck front shocks, part LOSB1293 (sold in pairs for $10/pr.).
I ground the spring perch off of the shock body and swapped the rod end for the stock rc4wd metal ones. Inside is 10wt oil (bleeding instructions can be found here: http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/LOSB0202_Manual.pdf), and for a spring I used about 8mm of a losi trail trekker spring. If you want different rates try the Losi micro t option springs (LOSB1600 or 1601). The stock rc4wd shock spring would probably work too, but I made these long before they came out so I used what was available at the time. Use whatever length piece of spring you want- I like mine drooped about 75%.
To mount these, I traced the shock hoops on some delrin plastic (1/8" I think), and mounted these inside the frame rails- the esc tray had to be rotated 180 degrees. I used Losi extended balls for the tops of the shocks- the ones used for the trekker/micro crawler shocks. These fit the mini dt shocks too.
I had a spare Redcat Sumo crawler motor/tranny I swapped in for lower gear range. Very simple- just ground the tabs off until it fit between the rails and mounted it using the stock holes. There is a plastic plate on each side of the tranny to screw into.
Just enough clearance between the motor and driveshaft that it doesn't hit. The front driveshaft was hair short after this swap so I used stock redcat/losi driveshafts. I've yet to break one even with the weight of this rig. In my opinion, the gearing is perfect with this swap. The motor isn't a beast, but it can pull its weight up any incline you can throw at it until it flips.
Here's a few videos with the sumo tranny/motor:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bj0XLj030nU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXy0XLJBgvM (top speed demo)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnKeIczAebo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwPw2Ke5XqE
BTA steering link- straight 2mm threaded rod with rod ends mounted on top of the rear part of the knuckles. Didn't even need a bend! The short link was replaced with 2mm threaded rod and rod ends as well, because the stock one limited suspension movement.
Easy light setup:
LOSB9996 Night Crawler light set. Losi Night Crawler LED Light Set LOSB9996 Comp Rock LNC LCC Scale 2.0
connected with a cheap "y harness" from the servo connection. E-Flite 3" Y-Harness, Lightweight
The led bulbs just pop right in the front headlights, a little hot glue and then platidip painted on the back. For the rear I used a little black styrene and made a little light bucket, with a piece of red cellophane (from some cheap 3d glasses) for the lens.
Finally ready for paint!
My "paint booth". 440 cfm inline duct fan sucks the fumes outside.
I've painted lexan bodies, but this is my first time ever painting a model! One more wet coat to go and some weathering. Painting sure takes some time and patience!
Edit- swapped sumo motor for Team Brood mini crawler motor, check bottom of page.
I put a few pics in the "new rc4wd micro" thread but it's spread over 10+ pages, so I'll put all the info here if anyone is interested.
You can get pretty good increase in suspension travel by moving the lower links to the inside of the axle mounting bracket and modifying the stock shocks, but if you want it to flex like one of the micro crawlers we're all familiar with- here's a good solution.
The Redcat Sumo crawler balls have 2mm threads so they screw into the axle bracket. Only a few threads are exposed after going through the frame rails, not enough for the nylon lock-nut part to work, so make sure you use loc-tite. I will thin the rails a hair where they mount if one ever comes loose. I'm not aware of any balls with longer 2mm threads, if any exist please share! The rod ends take 2-56 threaded rod, I covered them with 1/8" x .014" wall aluminum tube.
It's crazy how restrictive the stock links' rod ends are! After:
Just as much as a Losi-based rig:
The stock shocks certainly don't extend far enough though. Instead, I used Losi Mini Desert Truck front shocks, part LOSB1293 (sold in pairs for $10/pr.).
I ground the spring perch off of the shock body and swapped the rod end for the stock rc4wd metal ones. Inside is 10wt oil (bleeding instructions can be found here: http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/LOSB0202_Manual.pdf), and for a spring I used about 8mm of a losi trail trekker spring. If you want different rates try the Losi micro t option springs (LOSB1600 or 1601). The stock rc4wd shock spring would probably work too, but I made these long before they came out so I used what was available at the time. Use whatever length piece of spring you want- I like mine drooped about 75%.
To mount these, I traced the shock hoops on some delrin plastic (1/8" I think), and mounted these inside the frame rails- the esc tray had to be rotated 180 degrees. I used Losi extended balls for the tops of the shocks- the ones used for the trekker/micro crawler shocks. These fit the mini dt shocks too.
I had a spare Redcat Sumo crawler motor/tranny I swapped in for lower gear range. Very simple- just ground the tabs off until it fit between the rails and mounted it using the stock holes. There is a plastic plate on each side of the tranny to screw into.
Just enough clearance between the motor and driveshaft that it doesn't hit. The front driveshaft was hair short after this swap so I used stock redcat/losi driveshafts. I've yet to break one even with the weight of this rig. In my opinion, the gearing is perfect with this swap. The motor isn't a beast, but it can pull its weight up any incline you can throw at it until it flips.
Here's a few videos with the sumo tranny/motor:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bj0XLj030nU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXy0XLJBgvM (top speed demo)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnKeIczAebo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwPw2Ke5XqE
BTA steering link- straight 2mm threaded rod with rod ends mounted on top of the rear part of the knuckles. Didn't even need a bend! The short link was replaced with 2mm threaded rod and rod ends as well, because the stock one limited suspension movement.
Easy light setup:
LOSB9996 Night Crawler light set. Losi Night Crawler LED Light Set LOSB9996 Comp Rock LNC LCC Scale 2.0
connected with a cheap "y harness" from the servo connection. E-Flite 3" Y-Harness, Lightweight
The led bulbs just pop right in the front headlights, a little hot glue and then platidip painted on the back. For the rear I used a little black styrene and made a little light bucket, with a piece of red cellophane (from some cheap 3d glasses) for the lens.
Finally ready for paint!
My "paint booth". 440 cfm inline duct fan sucks the fumes outside.
I've painted lexan bodies, but this is my first time ever painting a model! One more wet coat to go and some weathering. Painting sure takes some time and patience!
Last edited:
Just for looks...
