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Dec 7, 2017
City on the sand

I couldn't find a dedicated sub-forum for this kit, so I'm posting here since the only requirement is a width under 16". This build is about 10.5" wide.

So I recently built a new shaft-driven competition rig and wanted to share my experience. RhinoRC was a "one-stop shop," saving me the trouble of sourcing parts from different places. I chose the Rhino Yue One V2 kit for its low center of gravity and overall great potential. They also offer some excellent optional upgrades.

You can watch my first run with it here:
Overall, I'm very impressed with it :)

I also have a Bully2 RTR, which I've upgraded to some extent. You can see it in my other YouTube videos. The Bully2 crawled the same rocks with the same tires, foams, and wheels, but I felt that the Rhino managed to handle some tougher angles and inclines that the Bully2 struggled with or couldn't manage.

I think the Rhino would be absolutely perfect platform if it had a front dig option like the Bully2, though it would need to be mechanical due to the shaft. I'd love to hear your thoughts on it.

Here are the build specs:

- Rhino Yue One V2 kit
- Rhino rear ultra link riser
- Tungsten weights on the front (about 62g total)
- Yeah Racing Desert Lizards 90mm, default soft springs setup front & rear (70% sprung, 30% droop)
- 30w shock oil
- 25% underdrive in rear axle
- 7075 aluminum wheel hex hubs (15mm)

- Holmes Hobbies Revolver V3 Snubnose 1400kv
- Holmes Hobbies CrawlMaster Mini V3
- AGFRC A75BUMW 62kg HV servo
- FlySky radio system
- CNHL 4s Lipo 850mah

Total weight with battery: 2kg
Wheelbase is 13.1". I measured again the width with the Ibex tires and it is 11.5" and not 10.5" like I wrote earlier.
So both wheelbase and width are slightly larger than my Bully2, about 0.5-1" differences.
In terms of percentage, the Rhino wheelbase is only longer by 4%, so it seems like a small number. But maybe you are right, they are totally different trucks, not sure if it's actually correct to compare them.
I decided to replace the short drag link with a longer one reaching the far knuckle. To make room, I flipped the battery tray, which moved the battery slightly backward, protecting it from frequent impacts.

Additionally, I used a dremel to modify the link end to avoid interference and ensure maximum steering due to the front link riser.

I kept the servo horn unchanged with its 2cm hole-to-hole distance. The drag link I used is a bent link from the Axial SCX10 III.

This setup essentially increases the torque applied by the servo to the knuckles.