RR10 2-speed

[Jboucher]

Why avoid the 2 speed? It works great for me and allows a good range for crawling and top speed without spending money on a sensored brushless setup.

When I built my kit I found it too complicated and read about the Mamba X AUX being a pain to synch to the 2 speed.

So I ended up going brushed and I used the 2speed servo mount for something else.

If I ever redo the whole electronics I may keep some room for the 2speed...

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[JT303]

Hey BroncoAZ,
Do you use the Mamba X?
If so, are you using the aux wire?

 

[BroncoAZ]

Hey BroncoAZ,
Do you use the Mamba X?
If so, are you using the aux wire?

I’ve still got the stock Axial RTR ESC. I may switch to the hobbywing 1080 shortly if I like it in the Bronco.

 

[Antsiranean]

I am surprised how little love the 2-speed is getting in the Bomber community, since it is very popular among Yeti owners. I've got it in my Yeti, paired with a Mamba X and Tekin Pro4HD, and setup so that I have 100% drag brake and immediate reverse in 1st gear and 25% drag brake and throttle-brake-reverse in 2nd. It is a great setup, and when I am now building my Bomber, a 2-speed was always on the list of things to put in it from the start.

It's not just about resolution at low speed, but the ability to use the aux wire to have different brake settings in the different gears really makes a difference. When crawling, 100% drag brake is just about mandatory, but when going fast it just makes for annoying front flips. The 2-speed and Mamba X sorts that problem in a way nothing else could.

Now, since my Bomber isn't running yet, I have no experience with the 2-speed in that rig, but the benefits of it should be the same as in the Yeti. In short: awesome!

 

[durok]

Possibly because the live axle front and rear setup of the Bomber is not as conducive to higher-speeds compared to a Yeti, with its IFS...(?)

Some people do run 2-speeds in their Bomber, but others (such as myself) just run a Mamba X with the Aux wire function set to CH3 for Rock Race Mode/ Rock Crawler Mode. I can't imagine needing more lower-speed resolution than what I'm already getting with 3S/4S and a HH Revolver 1800kv outrunner.

However, it's the differences in our rigs that make things interesting, by all means build it the way you'd like!

Mine has "features" that likely turn some people off, such as the lack of an interior (because I can't stand making it harder to access my electronics) and the stainless belly pan (because I don't want to wear down my plastic skid). Also the hard nylon roof panel so that it survives tumbles relatively unscathed... and I used the servo mount for a shelf for my ESC, making it easier to access - and I don't want the additional complexity of a shift servo and more fiddly linkages.

 

[Jboucher]

I also think the AUX wire plus 2speed on 1 button is harder to pull off in the bomber.
The shift servo arm is not the same lenght as in the yeti and i read stories about it not allowing the end points to fit for both AUX and 2speed

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[lszomb]

I have just order 2 speed kit for Bomber. It will be arriving in a few days. I have mamba X plus 3800KV slate (which is the reason for 2 speed). I will feedback once I complete my setup.

 

[CoolRunning]

I've been running a Titan 21T and HW1080 plus 2 speed for a couple of years I guess now. Zero issues. Works great. Crawls like a champ and the motor never gets hot. Goes about as fast as a sensored rig setup for crawling (I raced a bloke with a MMP/Tekin 3100 setup in a Wraith and it was surprisingly faster plus had a better crawl). Low speed resolution is fantastic as is the drag brake considering the $70USD motor and ESC combo. It's been probably in creeks for 5 solid hours plus mud and dirt in the Winter during that time. I guess the motor can't have long to live now but it's so cheap that I have had insane levels of value out of it. I'd be way too nervous driving a $500AUD brushless rig underwater like I've done with the Bomber.

 

[JT303]

I tinkered around with my 2 speed install in my BGR Bomber today and decided to plug the shift servo into channel 3 and the aux wire from my Mamba X into channel 4. This gives me full control of every option! I set my shift servo on a 2 position switch and the Mamba X aux on the lever on my MT-4S. I can shift from 1st to 2nd gear with the switch and control my drag brake step by step with the lever. Once you adjust far enough one way or the other on the aux lever, you engage crawler mode or rock race mode. It’s a pretty cool setup! Still working on the linkage because I’m super OCD but I’m stoked to finish this build and get it on the rocks!

 

[Antsiranean]

Let it here be noted, that if a Mamba X aux wire is used to change both gear, and between rock racer/crawler mode, a normal Y-harness is needed. If the same setup is done on a Yeti, a Y-harness with reverser is needed. This is due to the gear box servo being orientated in different directions in the different vehicles. I didn't realize this until now, when I am adjusting the electronics on my Bomber, in which I have a Y-harness with reverser, as I do in my Yeti. So now I have full drag brake and instant reverse in 2nd gear, and no drag brake and normal reverse in 1st. Luckily, I have a normal Y-harness lying around somewhere, so it should be an easy fix.

 

[Bounce It]

meatmonkey you are overthinking it

This is not the first two speed I have designed so I know it works just fine.

Hey I really want a 2 speed in my axial Bomber and I just like the look of the SSD and it seems to me you are very confident in this unit in the Bomber. So my question is where can I buy one? And thank you for the input in this forum

 

[SSD]

Hey I really want a 2 speed in my axial Bomber and I just like the look of the SSD and it seems to me you are very confident in this unit in the Bomber. So my question is where can I buy one? And thank you for the input in this forum

Amain, RPP and RCMart usually have most if not SSD products in stock.

 

[Jurak]

I need some help with the bomber 2 speed transmission. I keep burning up my motors. I need some help with finding out why.

 

[BroncoAZ]

I need some help with the bomber 2 speed transmission. I keep burning up my motors. I need some help with finding out why.

Do you have the 2 speed installed or is this more of a general question? If you have the two speed I’m thinking the shift servo may not be set correctly and the shift fork could be binding on things when it’s pushed too hard causing additional resistance. If not see the next paragraph.

Improper gearing or high drag in the drivetrain are the likeliest causes. Are you running the stock gearing? If you put a larger pinion gear on to make the truck faster you may have overdone it and are burning up motors with too much load. If the gearing is stock or lower than stock I would start by removing the motor from the plate the rotating the axles or rolling the truck across the floor. It should spin pretty freely with little resistance. If there is significant resistance try removing the driveshafts at the axles to isolate where resistance is, then fix the bad bearing, bent axle shaft, front CV, or something in the trans/transfer case.

Which motors are you running as replacements? I’ve been running my Bomber with the lower ratio axle gears and 2 speed trans kit off a cheap Traxxas 21T 550 motor for years on the stock ESC with zero motor or speed control issues. I purchased a Holmes Hobbies brushed motor for my TRX-4 for about $25, it also works fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Tita...GPX59MKR5KT&psc=1&refRID=46ZWXEESMGPX59MKR5KT

 

[Jboucher]

Running kit transmission with a 550 21T, 11T pinion on 3s, Never even had the motor warm...
You might have geared it too high.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Cocamper]

Do you have the 2 speed installed or is this more of a general question? If you have the two speed I’m thinking the shift servo may not be set correctly and the shift fork could be binding on things when it’s pushed too hard causing additional resistance. If not see the next paragraph.

Improper gearing or high drag in the drivetrain are the likeliest causes. Are you running the stock gearing? If you put a larger pinion gear on to make the truck faster you may have overdone it and are burning up motors with too much load. If the gearing is stock or lower than stock I would start by removing the motor from the plate the rotating the axles or rolling the truck across the floor. It should spin pretty freely with little resistance. If there is significant resistance try removing the driveshafts at the axles to isolate where resistance is, then fix the bad bearing, bent axle shaft, front CV, or something in the trans/transfer case.

Which motors are you running as replacements? I’ve been running my Bomber with the lower ratio axle gears and 2 speed trans kit off a cheap Traxxas 21T 550 motor for years on the stock ESC with zero motor or speed control issues. I purchased a Holmes Hobbies brushed motor for my TRX-4 for about $25, it also works fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Tita...GPX59MKR5KT&psc=1&refRID=46ZWXEESMGPX59MKR5KT

I have a question regarding the bold part above- my bomber seems to have a lot of "rolling resistance" and I'm not sure what is/isn't normal (stock RTR motor, esc) If I loosen up the motor so the pinion isn't engaged with the spur, it does not roll freely, I have to put downward pressure on the axles otherwise the tires will skid across the bench. Even with the "pressure", it doesn't roll very nicely. If I loosen the nut holding the slipper clutch/spur gear all the way, it will roll great- no binding anywhere (front diff, rear diff, tran feels smooth, etc.). Just not sure if this is normal or if I am going to fry my motor due to this "resistance".

On the 2 speed tranny- is there enough benefit to add this to the stock RTR motor/esc? I would guess at some point I'll upgrade the motor/esc.

Thanks!

 

[Jboucher]

You have to remove the driveshafts or the slipper to get the real rolling test.
The slipper is designed to be a resistance and "slip" only under stress to prevent damage to the gears or axles.

The 2-speed is a highly controversial subject... I prefer a simple brushed setup with good throttle finger control or even better a sensored brushless motor with a throttle curve in castle link.

For me the 2-speed is just more weight, 1 more servo to adjust and more potential mechanical failures down the road.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Cocamper]

You have to remove the driveshafts or the slipper to get the real rolling test.
The slipper is designed to be a resistance and "slip" only under stress to prevent damage to the gears or axles.

The 2-speed is a highly controversial subject... I prefer a simple brushed setup with good throttle finger control or even better a sensored brushless motor with a throttle curve in castle link.

For me the 2-speed is just more weight, 1 more servo to adjust and more potential mechanical failures down the road.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. Based on what you said, I should be in fine shape, as when I remove the slipper, it rolls very freely.

I know from reading the forum that the 2-speed is about as controversial as which tires are best! Just trying to decide if I want to throw it in there with the stock motor.

Since you brought it up, can you point me to a thread or resource that will explain the sensored brushless motor options? I'd love a simple bullet point layout- what is needed to upgrade-motor, esc, ?? and what are the steps to install? I have a Castle Creations B-link already that I used to adjust the voltage on my CC 2.0 BEC. Based on what I've read here, I should look no farther than the Mamba X. I do almost all crawling, with a little trail time to get between crawls. Currently run Venom 25C 2S 5000mAh batteries.

Thanks again!

 

[BroncoAZ]

I’ve been running the 2 speed with the $18 Traxxas motor on the stock ESC for a few years, it works great for me. I haven’t touched it or adjusted anything since installation, but Jboucher’s point about weight is certainly legit. I would be surprised if it added more than a few ounces, I’m sure I added more weight in beef tubes or aluminum wheels. With the lower gearing on demand I have no concerns about increasing the heat on the motor by running it at crawling speeds. I recently swapped in a HW1080, it basically works the same as the stock ESC but is tunable, no major difference in performance but I wanted to swap to the XT battery plugs anyway. The only thing I might’ve done differently is not changing the differential gears, I think the 2 speed is low enough that I likely didn’t need the 43 low gears. I did FI spools in both axles with the upgraded gears and have had zero gear issues.

 

[Jboucher]

Thanks for the reply. Based on what you said, I should be in fine shape, as when I remove the slipper, it rolls very freely.



I know from reading the forum that the 2-speed is about as controversial as which tires are best! Just trying to decide if I want to throw it in there with the stock motor.



Since you brought it up, can you point me to a thread or resource that will explain the sensored brushless motor options? I'd love a simple bullet point layout- what is needed to upgrade-motor, esc, ?? and what are the steps to install? I have a Castle Creations B-link already that I used to adjust the voltage on my CC 2.0 BEC. Based on what I've read here, I should look no farther than the Mamba X. I do almost all crawling, with a little trail time to get between crawls. Currently run Venom 25C 2S 5000mAh batteries.



Thanks again!

To go brushless you need the motor, ESC and the program card or PC link
Castle mamba X with castle link is pretty much the gold standard.
Or the castle sidewinder 4 with a revolver if you can tolerate the noise.

For motors I think it's up to you and your budget. There is a large number of suppliers and prices

I know I will only buy from holmes brushed or brushless but castle, tekin and even hobbywing are good.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk