Scx10 Raw kit build and rebuild. GMRC Drag Queen chassis.

[OpisOpus]

What’s up everyone. I’ll try to keep this from being too wordy. Grabbed the raw builders kit about a month ago. Originally wanted to turn this into a u4 truck based on another build on the forum, but after already having a Losi Rock Rey and seeing how this did crawling stock, I decided to make a dedicated crawler.

Parts list so far...

Castle 1410 3800kv w/ 5mm shaft
17t 32p pinion
Mamba X ESC
Savox 1210 waterproof servo
Futaba 4PLS w/ Rx
2S 5000mah GenAce shorty pack

Pitbull Growler tires
INJORA wheels

Here’s the kit in all of its unassembled glory

And a nice pile of parts. Some of which I ended up returning due to not needing them.

Had a few issues with getting the screws threaded in the transmission. Had to JB Weld a hex bit to a stripped screw in order to get it out and replace it. This was the only major issue I had with this kit.

Motor mounted w/ 17t pinion.

Original chassis before I switched to the GMRC chassis

And here’s how the tires look on the wheels.

Final image before I did further modifications to fit the shorty Lipo I wanted to use.

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[OpisOpus]

I did not like at all how the stock battery tray made the huge battery sit top heavy next to the servo.

Did some cutting as highlighted by the image. Cut the back half of the battery try off. Then made a custom battery tray out of some scrap aluminum I had around. Used servo tape and foam from my Castle ESC box for padding.

Mounted behind the servo for lower center of gravity and more even weight distribution.

In the next post I move on to the rebuild with the GMRC Drag Queen chassis and some SSD weighted knuckles.


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[OpisOpus]

And this is where I tear it all apart and rebuild haha. I did not like the stock chassis at all so when I found the GMRC chassis for $45 I jumped on it.
Here’s a link to the chassis. I also picked up the skid plate and battery tray from them. https://greenmountainrc.myshopify.com

Partially rebuilt here...

At this point, I have it built, but nowhere to put ESC and receiver box. The trays that came in the kit don’t work on the chassis.

For the Rx box location, I actually used metal brackets for window blinds. Cut one end off with a Dremel to make L-shaped brackets and attached to the chassis with the screws that held the skid plate. Put on super strong Velcro and slapped the Rx box on there. I like it bc from the top you can’t even see how it’s mounted.

Finding a spot for the ESC was easy. I just further modified the stock battery tray with a Dremel and put it in there with some more Velcro. This Velcro is amazing btw. Use it on my Rock Rey for bashing and ESC doesn’t budge so on a crawler it has more than enough hold.

Padded the battery tray same way as the aluminum one I made. I also ran the ESC and servo wires under the foam to clean it up a little more.

Lots of zip ties and a few plastic wire holders to clean stuff up. I don’t trust myself to cut wires and resolder so this will have to suffice haha.

Finally, I don’t have any images of the SSD weighted knuckles before installing, but these things are nice. Per 2019 rules though, I don’t think they can be used in comp.

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[OpisOpus]

I forgot to add a few miscellaneous things from the GMRC chassis. I added 2 sets of chassis/shock braces or whatever you wanna call them to keep the chassis from twisting or anything. One on the rear shock towers and one below the battery tray.

For the body posts I just screwed and ziptied the rear ones. Front ones I had to cut up the stock shock hoops and mount them to the new chassis.

I received Crawler innovations duel stage foams in the mail yesterday. Waiting on Hyrax tires with predator compound to come. Also prepping to paint the 66 Chevy C10 body so I will have one final post once I get those things finished.

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[OpisOpus]

Thank you. I was pretty upset too that the transmission holes weren’t threaded. Couldn’t get them to go in straight and once they were in so far it was near impossible to back them out and redo it. Couldn’t get in there with a Dremel to turn it into a flathead screw either. I had heard of the weld trick using real welds on 1:1 vehicles so figured I’d give it a shot with JB. Was easy to break the JB off of the bit too after I was done.


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[ferp420]

for the future issues with the hex head screws you can tap a star tip bit in to the stripex hex they bite real hard and you dont have to kleen the jb weld off when your done this trick works about 95% of the time ive even reused them in a pinch without issues
oh and if you heat the screw up a little bit they go in easyer just work them i and out slowly till tbere are good threads alittle heat on the plastic dosent hert ether just dont melt any thing

 

[OpisOpus]

You mean like a Torx bit? It was too stripped even for that. I’ve had to use that method a few times. The screw was very tight into the case


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[OpisOpus]

It’s unpainted and beat up, but it was beautiful out so took the scx10 onto a trail. First time off my property and it performed great. Waiting on a shipment of Hyrax tires and will be putting in C.I. duel stage foams that I have. Can’t wait to see how it drives then. Will try to figure out a way to upload a video or link to one.

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[OpisOpus]

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[OpisOpus]

Here’s the video. It’s only 43 seconds. 2 different angles of 2 different attempts at the same obstacle.
https://youtu.be/3PXnjP87mt0


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[JatoTheRipper]

Wow that thing performs! Nice job.

 

[OpisOpus]

Got the class 1 Hyrax tires. Ran them for a few days and sold them lol. I couldn’t stand how small the 4.19’s were. Went back to the Pitbull Growlers, but cut the treads. Cutting provided a decent improvement, but reversing them (not shown in images) made them comparable to the Hyrax. My first time cutting tires, and of course I cut at least 1 hole in each tire by accident [emoji849]. Flex Seal seemed to fix it up good though. No other real updates besides that. My scx has now been shelved for a bit while I prep for a hill climb comp on my Rock Rey.

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