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Scx10 spur and pinion gearing

fhgbobcat

Newbie
Joined
Nov 19, 2016
Messages
22
Location
US
Hello I have a scx10 and I have been running stock spur and pinion gears with a 56t spur and 13t pinion and today I stripped out my spur I want to buy a metal gear but can't find a good 56t with dual slipper pads like mine so I want to know what other people are running for gearing and maybe I'll upgrade I do all crawling and trail riding

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X2 - IMHO if you stripped a 32P spur gear there is definitely something wrong with your setup. I run 32P in everything, I change out anything that comes with 48P, and I've never had teeth strip on a plastic spur. I guess I'm lazy because I find setting gear mesh on 48P way to finicky to get it perfect, and it will strip if its not perfect. Generally speaking, 48P is smoother than 32P but I live with the way 32P runs. One thing to think about, there is always a weak link somewhere in a drive system. The cheapest thing to replace is usually the plastic spur. Replace it with a metal spur and what component now becomes the weak link? And what does it cost to replace?

I set my gear mesh by feel. Takes a little practice and patience to get it right but well worth it in the long run.
 
I managed to strip part of a 32p plastic spur once. This was full bore with a Puller Pro 3500kv on 3s in an 11 lb rig trying to get up and over a log. So yeah, they hold up pretty good with proper mesh and are a cheap point of failure just in case.

Toothless Spur.jpg
 
So it sounds like I just messed up with the mesh so I will stick with plastic bit should I stay with a 56t for crawling?

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Only way I've seen someone strip a 32p gear...
is because the screws holding the motor came loose
and backed off enough to allow for the motor to shift.

If the spur/pinion mesh is the cause...
Commonly a jump or hit into the ground shifts the motor
and causes the spur/pinion tooth mesh to disengage somewhat.
and that could cause the spur to strip.

You shouldn't need utilize a 32p metal spur gear as others have stated.

It's best to keep the plastic spur gear as the weak link in the drive line.
'Cuz a plastic spur gear is the easiest to replace and least expensive part to purchase
if it does become fubar.

I would suggest using some locktite on those motor mount screws
and be sure they are tightened fully.
To ensure the spur/pinion mesh setting stays put when their mesh is set.

Washers on the motor mount screws would help too
if those weren't included or were omitted originally.

I might go with a metal spur gear when running 48 pitch
But only because of the finer teeth using that pitch.

But that's not as critical for 32p... and is why 32p has become popular.
 
Only way I've seen someone strip a 32p gear...
is because the screws holding the motor came loose
and backed off enough to allow for the motor to shift.

If the spur/pinion mesh is the cause...
Commonly a jump or hit into the ground shifts the motor
and causes the spur/pinion tooth mesh to disengage somewhat.
and that could cause the spur to strip.

You shouldn't need utilize a 32p metal spur gear as others have stated.

It's best to keep the plastic spur gear as the weak link in the drive line.
'Cuz a plastic spur gear is the easiest to replace and least expensive part to purchase
if it does become fubar.

I would suggest using some locktite on those motor mount screws
and be sure they are tightened fully.
To ensure the spur/pinion mesh setting stays put when their mesh is set.

Washers on the motor mount screws would help too
if those weren't included or were omitted originally.

I might go with a metal spur gear when running 48 pitch
But only because of the finer teeth using that pitch.

But that's not as critical for 32p... and is why 32p has become popular.
What do you recommend for teeth should I stay with a 56t?

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 
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