SCX24 3s?

[slothRC]

Hi all,

I have a SCX24 C10. I ran a quick search without coming up with anything on the forum; I apologize if this has already been covered...

Does anyone have experience running the stock electronics on 3s? I’ve replaced the servo with an Emax ES08MA II. Other than the servo, electronics are stock. I’m wondering if anyone has knowledge or experience on how the stock ESC and motor handle 3s, if they can handle them at all.

I installed weighted brass wheel hexes and RC4WD stamped steel beadlocks recently, and I can see the strain it’s putting on the motor. It stalls out in rough spots. I’m wondering if instead of replacing the motor immediately, running on 3s would give me the added power I need.

I do have a spare HW 1080 esc that I have considered installing on this little thing if needed for 3s, but space is limited in the chassis and I like how clean and compact the stock esc/receiver combo is.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

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[lightbg]

FWIW I built a Tamiya 1/24 Lunchbox Mini and thought the Esc/Rx from the SCX would do the trick. I made an adapter from the Deans plug on the Venom Fly 1300mAh 3cell to fit the Axial part, completed the build and turned it on. The magic smoke appeared immediately, yet the Rx responded to steering inputs, indicating I fried the Esc.
I would not suggest a 3 cell with the stock Esc/Rx.

Jake

 

[spoo76]

There's one or two people that have claimed in a few posts they run 3s, but idk if that's true or not. Either way the tiny brushes on the motor won't last long on 3s considering they barely last when stock.
As far as your ESC being fried, as long as the receiver and steering are good you may still be able to use the ESC bypass on channel 2. Try plugging in an aftermarket ESC like you would to a normal receiver and it should work like a typical RC. It's a nice feature that helps so you won't need to buy a new transmitter when the ESC burns out.

 

[slothRC]

Thanks lightbg and spoo76 for your input. I’ll skip on the 3s because I don’t really want to get into swapping out esc and receiver unless necessary, especially given the minimal space in these little chassis.

I suppose the best way to go is upgrading the motor.

I’ve seen things about both 050 size and 130 motors in these little rigs. I know the bigger motors need new motor mounts. The Holmes hobbies 050 size motor that is (hopefully) coming soon seems promising. Does anyone have experience with whether the 050 is enough of an improvement and/or if the 130 is total overkill?

Thanks!


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[lightbg]

There's one or two people that have claimed in a few posts they run 3s, but idk if that's true or not. Either way the tiny brushes on the motor won't last long on 3s considering they barely last when stock.
As far as your ESC being fried, as long as the receiver and steering are good you may still be able to use the ESC bypass on channel 2. Try plugging in an aftermarket ESC like you would to a normal receiver and it should work like a typical RC. It's a nice feature that helps so you won't need to buy a new transmitter when the ESC burns out.

2nd time you’ve provided me with great advice. Many thanks again.

Jake

 

[spoo76]

I’ve seen things about both 050 size and 130 motors in these little rigs. I know the bigger motors need new motor mounts. The Holmes hobbies 050 size motor that is (hopefully) coming soon seems promising. Does anyone have experience with whether the 050 is enough of an improvement and/or if the 130 is total overkill?

For the 130 motors you can make your own motor plate/mount or use the one from GamyRCs shapeways. They aren't overkill, in fact I feel it's the perfect size and how they should come stock.
The 050 is a nice improvement over stock and the HobbyPlus 050 or the ATLAS 050 are direct bolt in on like the others that require you to redrill a new motor mount hole ( very easy )

As far as Holmes 050 I wouldn't expect it to be available soon. He's having trouble with the limits of these tiny crappy brushes. However, when it's available I'm sure it will be the best bolt in option. It may even be as good or almost as good as a cheap sealed can 130, but I wouldn't expect it to be as powerful as a good rebuildable race 130 like from PN racing.
Those are available on https://www.kenonhobby.com/. I'd look into the 50t for a little more speed, and the 70t for more torque although both will make more power than a stock 030 or 050 as well as handling 3s lipo



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[Gramps]

The RC4WD FF-030 is also a good replacement option. Haven't found any die hard specs on it but I have heard it's 100t. Also a direct bolt in just need to solder on wires with the proper connector. I have the 050 Barrage motor in my Deadbolt and like it over the FF-030. I did have to drill holes in the mounting plate, pretty easy. Also reversed the wires in the plug for correct rotation.