SCX6 CLOD - DUAL BRUSHLESS - 35lb MEGA RIG!!

[JatoTheRipper]

I don't know what you're selecting on Imgur, but I have no problem with it. Sorry if I posted this here before, but I did make a guide. Imgur did change a bit since posting it. I'm also going to update the guide to match Imgur's changes.

Here's the guide:

Thread 'Imgur - Embedding and Posting Photos'

Apr 29, 2020

NOTE: IMGUR HAS CHANGED THEIR WEBSITE SO THIS FIRST POST IS NOW OUTDATED. REFER TO POST #18 AND #19 BELOW.

Link to Post #18 - sharing images from your Posts on Imgur: Imgur - Embedding and Posting Photos

Link to Post #19 - sharing images from your Images on Imgur: Imgur - Embedding and Posting Photos

Old and outdated info is below.
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Image hosts are going paid left and right so a lot of people have...

• JatoTheRipper
• embed host imgur photo post
• Replies: 18
• Forum: Comments, Suggestions, and Help

• 

 

[WRXronald]

So I think going to retire this rig for a bit --- I diagnosed the front end failure issue and this time it wasn't the pinion walking up and off the short shaft.

I think I did a small amount of gear teeth damage when the pinion walked off the first time. Under heavy load in the snow something inside the CLOD trans has failed, it no longer rotates. I think likely the aluminum billet gears just slowly bend out of shape over time and many many heavy loads and once they are far enough out of spec, Skippy Skippy a few teeth and its all over from there. REBUILD TIME.

But i'm just done on the REBUILD, for now. Granted that was 6s lipo, in the deep snow all bound up --- and the last straw. It held well for a long time. But I'm just sorta done, the CLOD axle rebuild is a big job, you don't just pull a pumpkin and some portal knuckles. Or pop a tranny out and replace gears.

Full removal of both front servos, removal of axle from truck, even just removing the skid plate is a bit finicky. Then split the tranny in half and go about troubleshooting and replacing failed internals whatever it is -- most likely counter gears.

If only there was a STEEL gear set for the Clod axle. Its really a sad thing. Oh well. Or even just full 7075 set would be great!

Side note I got the AXE R3 brushless in the F250 -- it absolutely RIPS on 6s, had no mechanical issues first time out, sorta went easy on it but even so it already rips WAY harder just in low gear than the brushed 997 at full go in high gear! Night & Day power difference. Lipo also lasting ALOT longer. So I'm gonna focus on that rig and the EMO XX for a bit.

CLODBUSTER BEASTIE is becoming a shelf queen for now. Vision is someday slapping SCX6 Vitavon portals under it instead, maybe, or just rebuilt and stick to 3s rock crawling instead.

She had a good run any way ya slice it!!!!!

 

[Gula]

Have you checked aliensexpress for the gears (mod wise) and make your own....
Buy the individual blank gears, bore, friction fit/weld/braze the smaller gears to the bigger one. IIRC there's 2 compound gears, and then the one gear with the "spider gears" or a locker......

 

[WRXronald]

those are pretty solid ideas (pun intended ) thank you!

I'll tear into it i'm sure soon enough --- get a few degrees on the garage for starters -- i'll expect to be at it for a few hours before even getting to the point of making a gear set. I have to think of a way to increase the bearing size that the gear shafts ride on. I suspect i'm gong to find bearing damage failure (as usual) despite upping the gear bore wider and deeper going from a bearing 8x5x2.5mm to 10x5x4.5mm. It just feels like there is a little tiny ball bearing inside there spewed out and jamming up gear train. Any bigger a bearing though and there no meat left on the bone for gear teeth strength (in aluminum anyways, but in steel, the story could be different). Just that a thin gear layer like that almost has to be a solid core piece, not sleeved, brazed together, etc.

The real truth is I need an involute gear cutter and ALOT more in the way of lathe skills --- cut my own set of CLOD style gears in MOD1 out of steel, that simple! highly doubtful, for now at least. But I aspire anyways.....

If I get into it and the bearing mod held up, then braze type or other weld style could do the trick -- even some button welds stainless on mild steel... my mind gears are turning

 

[ferp420]

steel gears would be awsome
i want mine extra heavy thank you lol

 

[Gula]

What's the involute gear cutting for? Buy blank pinion (s).................

 

[WRXronald]

Precisely! The involute form cutter is for forming the proper shaped tooth dimension on the gear blank (long process cutting each tooth individually).

To make a set of re-created Clod gears out of steel first would need to start with a 2 inch solid round, three of the gears are large diameter, and two of those larger gears have smaller gears machined on the ends of them -- so using the lathe I would turn down both sides to proper outer diameter one side large, one side small, and then use involute gear cutter to form all the teeth. but as I think about it -- that should be near IMPOSSILE to achieve because how do you get a round involute cutting wheel up into the corner of the small diameter gear that is an integral part of the larger diameter gear -- the form wheel will run into the sidewall of the larger gear while trying to cut the smaller gear teeth.

This is a bugger. 3D printed sintered steel maybe --- probably cheaper than 7075 billet.

I just need to pony up the $ and send set of CLOD gear set drawings to xometry or somebody --- pretty sure they offer printing in DMLS using tough Tool steel! Big $$$ i'm sure. And I need double set one for front MOA one for rear MOA.

Was thinking overnight -- this issue could be REAL simple -- while it feels like there's tiny ball bearings preventing gear from turning smooth -- the gear is not wobbling at all, which it would do If there was bearing failure.

So, I did forget to close/cover the pinion window on the side of the transmission before I went on that last run --- what if snow/gravel debris got thrown into the pinion window hole --- and its now in the gear-train jamming it up!?

Perhaps I'll get into there tear it apart and find no damages at all -- just a clean up and re-assemble. Here's to holdin' hopes anyways!!!!

 

[Gula]

Unfortunately, I don't think you're understanding what I mean. Do you know the tooth count? I think it's Mod1, for all but the gear that contacts the motor pinion, correct? That's 32pitch or mod 0.8 from what I can tell.

 

[Gula]

Here, match up your tooth count as close as you can and buy rhe gears and stack two together to make the compound gear on a shaft.. make more sense now? Just add 2 separate gears, and you could friction weld them on your lathe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtgoKI9

Friction weld the small steel gear on your lathe onto the big gear............

 

[WRXronald]

ok now I see what you're saying -- I get it. its not bad, you're saying rotate them against each so fast that they super heat and fuse together. But can you fuse weld heat treated gears.... I guess there's one way to find out lol.

hmmmm. I love the idea.

The gears are .8 or 32 pitch but why bother going there if making them may as well just buy MOD1's, I guess price. The smallest gear on there is a 15t so shouldn't be hard to match it in mod1 tooth count of equivalent diameter.

I have 7075 Locker gears so that really only leaves the 2 counter gears per transmission (each with a big/small gear coupled together).

 

[WRXronald]

Just checked..... some new brand on ebay is selling them in 7075 - "FLYXM" price ok for if they are 7075 I could get the full set front and rear for about $100.

Using Gula's idea and sticking to 32p to keep costs down (#45 hardened steel alone would be a huge upgrade over anodized 6061 so pitch size doesn't have to increase). Then I can also keep the 7075 Trac-gear lockers I already have and that's 2 fewer gears to replace.

So using Gula's idea for the counter gears --- $64 all in ----- four 15t's and four 44t's ---- would fuse them together or heck, if width work I could trial run it but just putting a flat on the 5mm shaft and putting the setscrew onto the flat for each gear -- this would effectively lock them together on the shaft. Uh, wait, duh no I need a bearing in there somewheres!

So I will need to take the 5mm bore hole in the steel gears out to 10mm with precision to receive the bearing --- 5mm sounds pretty small to start internally boring on the lathe with carbide tooling. Its hardened #45, so a HSS custom made tool with super skinny internal reach is not a great choice either.

I guess from there a better option is a 10mm tungsten carbide drill. Or a 9mm version and internally bore it out to 10mm with precision using a small boring bar from there I think once at 8mm or 9mm can start to get in there with the small carbide boring bar. I need to go in 4mm deep to take the entire bearing 10x5x4mm.

On the 15t, there isn't much meat left around the outsides once you get up to 10mm bore hole, its wee close --- attempting to open that with TCT drill could be hilarious in terms of holding onto the outside of the gear and preventing rotation while drilling --- maybe in a perfectly sized collet - but those teeth, eek. Perhaps a super tight hold with aluminum soft jaws and just dialing it on the 4-jaw is the ticket.

Its def a project for a bit of throw away $ on the off chance (lol or reasonably good chance) it all doesn't work out for one issue or another (IE shortcoming in my tools and or especially skills)

Once again, she's retired. For now. Tear down first when its warmer, to fully diagnose, cross fingers just DEBRIS!!! I do much appreciate all the good ideas for when the time does come!!!