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Spaztix paints
- Thread starter andy27012
- Start date
Hobbezco
Pebble Pounder
I have painted inside and outside of lexan bodies, both canned and airbrushed, with great results using Spazstix. If it can handle the outside of lexan, I see no reason that its cant handle a hard body. Paint choice almost becomes just personal preference with proper surface preparation. 90% of successful painting is prep work.
Spazstix paint sucks! I couldn't even get it to stick to lexan so I doubt it's going to work on hard bodies. Many people have had the same issues that I have had. Others have had great look. People will say it's the prep, but that's not true at all. I prep all my bodies the same and I've never had lexan paint peel off before SpazStix.
Hobbezco
Pebble Pounder
To be honest about it, your wasting money using polycarbonate (lexan) paint on a hard body anyway. Brand name rattle cans work far better on things that don't flex, and are lot cheaper too. I like Krylon fusion. I even decant it for airbrushing sometimes too.
Good point. I've had good luck with Krylon Fusion on hard bodies.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I paint both styrene and lexan I will admit I prefer Parma faskolor over all others.
Dawn wash and dry, scuff with a green pad, I shoot dively liquid mask now, cut and spray,dry ,repeat for other colors .
With styrene, wash and scuff , I shoot lacquer primer here and wetsand, then shoot auto air/ wicked/ parma. On styrene dust coat at 70 psi , on lexan 60 psi..... Dust.
Styrene must be cleared after color
Dawn wash and dry, scuff with a green pad, I shoot dively liquid mask now, cut and spray,dry ,repeat for other colors .
With styrene, wash and scuff , I shoot lacquer primer here and wetsand, then shoot auto air/ wicked/ parma. On styrene dust coat at 70 psi , on lexan 60 psi..... Dust.
Styrene must be cleared after color
PoorManRC
Quarry Creeper
After TWELVE successful Spaz Stix paint jobs - including four Color-Shifting Paint Jobs.... There IS a key to this.
First, there's NO real good instructions on how to use it! I used to Paint 1:1 Cars, and used a few of those tricks. I found out that Spaz Stix is a combination of Polyurethane and Lacquer Polymers.
So I prepped the Body accordingly.
I Wet Sanded the entire inside of the Body (Except of COURSE, the Windows). Ruined it?? NOPE! Since the OUTSIDE of the Lexan acts like an outer Clearcoat, almost ANYTHING that you do to the inside, will make NO difference in the finish!! ;-)
Use 1000-1200 grit sandpaper, at a sink, with constantly running water. This is an extreme wet sanding!! Try to get in every little seam and detail.
Then, still with warm water, go over it again with a fine Scotch-Brite pad, with a GOOD Dish Soap (but not one of those "fu fu" heavy scented Soaps!!).
Then, thoroughly rinse with the hottest water that your hands can stand.
Let AIR DRY. Don't touch the inside with ANYTHING.
Then....... Paint just like you would Paint anything else - just NOT under about 65 degrees F. (You shouldn't Spray Paint anything under that temperature anyway!! It's not good for anything, except maybe Acrylics.
IT WILL WORK like the! No, it's not for everyone..... If you don't want to do the extra work, that's always your choice. But if you want a Paint Job that gets ooos and aaas, THIS is how to do it.
Frankly, I've always said that Spaz Stix should come with a disclaimer! It's NOT a "spray and go" Paint. However, for those up to the challenge, it can be show stopping!!
I do NOT work for Company. I just don't like when ANY Product is the subject of scuttlebutt and opinions, without knowing the whole story. Now there are some really good Painters on this Forum, and some great ones too!!! It's not THEIR fault that a product came out, that needs some special handling - an didn't give ANY information about any different procedures....
These people are just trying to feed their Families, like everyone else!
NO! They just put it out there and sold to experienced Modelers, who rightfully assumed that they knew how use it - EXACTLY like all the other paints they've used. Which isn't the case with this.
I sincerely hope this helps someone.
First, there's NO real good instructions on how to use it! I used to Paint 1:1 Cars, and used a few of those tricks. I found out that Spaz Stix is a combination of Polyurethane and Lacquer Polymers.
So I prepped the Body accordingly.
I Wet Sanded the entire inside of the Body (Except of COURSE, the Windows). Ruined it?? NOPE! Since the OUTSIDE of the Lexan acts like an outer Clearcoat, almost ANYTHING that you do to the inside, will make NO difference in the finish!! ;-)
Use 1000-1200 grit sandpaper, at a sink, with constantly running water. This is an extreme wet sanding!! Try to get in every little seam and detail.
Then, still with warm water, go over it again with a fine Scotch-Brite pad, with a GOOD Dish Soap (but not one of those "fu fu" heavy scented Soaps!!).
Then, thoroughly rinse with the hottest water that your hands can stand.
Let AIR DRY. Don't touch the inside with ANYTHING.
Then....... Paint just like you would Paint anything else - just NOT under about 65 degrees F. (You shouldn't Spray Paint anything under that temperature anyway!! It's not good for anything, except maybe Acrylics.
IT WILL WORK like the! No, it's not for everyone..... If you don't want to do the extra work, that's always your choice. But if you want a Paint Job that gets ooos and aaas, THIS is how to do it.
Frankly, I've always said that Spaz Stix should come with a disclaimer! It's NOT a "spray and go" Paint. However, for those up to the challenge, it can be show stopping!!
I do NOT work for Company. I just don't like when ANY Product is the subject of scuttlebutt and opinions, without knowing the whole story. Now there are some really good Painters on this Forum, and some great ones too!!! It's not THEIR fault that a product came out, that needs some special handling - an didn't give ANY information about any different procedures....
These people are just trying to feed their Families, like everyone else!
NO! They just put it out there and sold to experienced Modelers, who rightfully assumed that they knew how use it - EXACTLY like all the other paints they've used. Which isn't the case with this.
I sincerely hope this helps someone.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Wow....... Spaz, Auto Air , Wicked colors, are all in the same arena. I’ve shot dozens and did find instructions in the spaz video. We are dealing with water based paints and they are totally different than solvent bases.
Reduction /thinning is a science, over reduce, you’ll know, under reduce or not enough psi it’s a mess. I wash with dawn and dry overnight.
High pressure, (65to70) works well, hair dryer to flash coats. I’ve not scuffed or sanded any body’s, and no adhesion problems, I used to shoot HOK and adherto was the trick, not needed here.
You are 100% correct, they are not simple, but do work great, and no VOCs in the air.
Hang up and Drive
Reduction /thinning is a science, over reduce, you’ll know, under reduce or not enough psi it’s a mess. I wash with dawn and dry overnight.
High pressure, (65to70) works well, hair dryer to flash coats. I’ve not scuffed or sanded any body’s, and no adhesion problems, I used to shoot HOK and adherto was the trick, not needed here.
You are 100% correct, they are not simple, but do work great, and no VOCs in the air.
Hang up and Drive
Tamiya paints can look just as good as spaztix with less prep. I don't have to scuff a lexan body for Tamiya cans. and I get a lot of comments on my 10 minute rattle can jobs with Tamiya cans.
keep like brands with like brands with the closest matching color to your liking. do not mix different brands unless it got the same base and mixture properties. I would never use a ppg etch under a DuPont sealer under a enamel single stage. different chemicals react to others and same goes with material.
im not a pro, but I paint a lot more than I need to. new painted bodies sit in my basement for long before I run them. use Tamiya cans if you can. its for the ease of use.
keep like brands with like brands with the closest matching color to your liking. do not mix different brands unless it got the same base and mixture properties. I would never use a ppg etch under a DuPont sealer under a enamel single stage. different chemicals react to others and same goes with material.
im not a pro, but I paint a lot more than I need to. new painted bodies sit in my basement for long before I run them. use Tamiya cans if you can. its for the ease of use.
PoorManRC
Quarry Creeper
MikemcE, Badass airbrushing!!! "thumbsup" That's the ONE thing I haven't done, YET - Airbrushing a Lexan Body! :shock: I should change that. I've been airbrushing plastic Models and Model Trains for Decades. ;-)
CM9000, I couldn't agree more!! Tamiya Paints are fantastic! About the best Paint out of a rattle can!! You're also spot on about not mixing brands. MOST Brands have unique chemical compounds, that may not mix well with others.
The bottom line Really, Painting ANYTHING, requires some skill, knowing some simple procedures, and a LOT of Common Sense!!
CM9000, I couldn't agree more!! Tamiya Paints are fantastic! About the best Paint out of a rattle can!! You're also spot on about not mixing brands. MOST Brands have unique chemical compounds, that may not mix well with others.
The bottom line Really, Painting ANYTHING, requires some skill, knowing some simple procedures, and a LOT of Common Sense!!
spaceman5280
Quarry Creeper
Thanks for the tips, I just started using a airbrush with faskolor water based paint and I like not having to evacuate the house if I wanna paint in the garage or basement in the winter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
waterbourne is nice, cause if you screw up you dont have to use brake fluid to get it off. just rub the small spot with water. ANY water based paint can be cleared over with eurathane or lacquer clear.
as far as airbrushes go, iwata gravity feed airbrushes are the easiest to work with. and well saves some paint.
as far as airbrushes go, iwata gravity feed airbrushes are the easiest to work with. and well saves some paint.
PoorManRC
Quarry Creeper
That's very true. I still maintain that sticking with the same brand... I also find it best to use a gravity feed Airbrush, when shooting any water-based Paint.
I have an Iwata, and love it! I also have a 30 year old Badger D/A siphon feed.... and love it even more - but appreciate both, for entirely different reasons. ;-)
