Steering compessing suspension

[wallaz]

I finally got around to running my scaler the other day and encountered a steering/suspension problem.

With my steering servo being mounted to the inside chassis rail I can cylcle the suspension while attempting to turn the wheels.

I get a bit of compression of the shocks when I set the truck down and I am thinking the springs are too soft. They are the original TLT springs and shocks.

I have ordered some new shocks from run2jeep.

Will this cure the problem if I use the correct weight oil in them?

This is the best view I have for now of the front of the truck showing the steering links

 

[dieselfuel]

Theres definetly something wrong with your suspension link/steering geometry. Some better pics will help a lot. Typically this is caused by the draglink (link from the servo arm to the knuckle) being at too steep of an angle.

 

[toomanyrcz]

What i did to mine was make a pan rod bar, a link that mounts to the chassis to the axle, also making sure it is at the same angle as the steering link. There are some good pics of this on this site, i will try to find one for you....

 

[wallaz]

A couple of pictures of my setup. Slightly different in that the steering servo is longitudinal to make room for the winch servo.

Looks like I might have to try and squeeze a panhard rod in there as well then??

 

[K_B]

You could try putting a spacer between the tie-rod and draglink on the knuckle to get the draglink more parallel with the tie-rod. That should help.

 

[wallaz]

I Will try that K_B.

It's going to be a hell of a lot easier than trying to shoe-horn a panhard rod into the space.

 

[toomanyrcz]

Dam nice truck man! Where's the build up of this? And panhard rod is only way to go, plus it gives it a more scaleish look imo...."thumbsup"

 

[Grizzly4x4]

The main problem as I see it is the angle of you drag link. When the servo tries to turn the tires the force exerted on the draglink is not parallel to the ground so it does not result in pure left to right motion. There is a vertical force component that tries to lift up or pull down the frame when the tires resist turning.

Long story short, do like K_B said and try to get the drag link more parallel to the ground.
The only reason for a panhard bar is to reduce bump steer.8)

 

[Unimoger]

I run a 3 link in the front with a pan hard stabilzer bar also on my BB-51 scaler. Most important thing is to do is keep the steering link and pan hard hard link the same angle and close to the same length, that way when the suspension cycles, the steering geometry stays the same."thumbsup"

here are my pics:

 

[mrmaxxman]

I run a 3 link in the front with a pan hard stabilzer bar also on my BB-51 scaler. Most important thing is to do is keep the steering link and pan hard hard link the same angle and close to the same length, that way when the suspension cycles, the steering geometry stays the same."thumbsup"

here are my pics:

x2 if set up this way you pretty much eliminate "bump steer"

 

[eric113]

I run a 3 link in the front with a pan hard stabilzer bar also on my BB-51 scaler. Most important thing is to do is keep the steering link and pan hard hard link the same angle and close to the same length, that way when the suspension cycles, the steering geometry stays the same."thumbsup"

here are my pics:

Ben do, you have any pics of the panhand bar axle mount ? What did you use to make the frame mount panhand bar ?

 

[wallaz]

Dam nice truck man! Where's the build up of this? And panhard rod is only way to go, plus it gives it a more scaleish look imo...."thumbsup"

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61196

Build tooka a slight change in direction in that it now has a HPI shell and I need to re-make the cage.


I altered the steering geometry by adding a spacer as suggested by K_B and it performs considerably better.