It seems to me that a stripped hex screw is a common occurrence. Can this be eliminated by upgrading everything to stainless? How do you avoid stripping and furthermore how do you extract a stripped screw?
Black oxide steel are the strongest screws and less prone to strip. Stainless is softer than regular steel and tends to strip easier and will gall running your day if you aren't careful. Titanium and aluminum hardware is ok for weight savings but it isn't strong enough for some uses and it is very easy to strip the hex right out of the head even with good tools.
That said slotting with a skinny wheel on a dremel is my go to move. Even on motor pinions and drive shafts it will usually work.
Torx bits pounded into stripped screws works well too if you can find one small enough.
Mip tools are pretty precise, vanquish are nice, I have a bunch of their replacement tips in old integy handles so I have their quality at a cheaper price. Associated has their tools that are probably one of the better bangs for the buck.
One thing you don't see too too much of when researching or see stuff is referenced to the term"snug".So if I can find a black oxide screw set that would be the way to go?
So if I can find a black oxide screw set that would be the way to go?
Looks like those should work on just about any damaged screw...well, with two exceptions: flathead, and screws that sheared just below the head. Looks like I'll be adding another tool to my collection.I've used these Engineer screw removal pliers for a variety of tasks. They work fantastic on stripped screws and are often much simpler and quicker than extractors. There's a few different shapes but the PZ-58's are all I've tried. Vamplier is another brand that appears to be rebranded Engineer.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Pz-...eywords=engineer+pliers&qid=1621389356&sr=8-2
The link didnt work on my end, but if they are anything like these, which i purchased off the Matco truck...they are PHENOMENAL!! ABSOLUTE GOLLLD!Looks like those should work on just about any damaged screw...well, with two exceptions: flathead, and screws that sheared just below the head. Looks like I'll be adding another tool to my collection.
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TBH.....id say for me, my luck, and the screws' locations where i decide to not pay attention for 2.5 seconds....it usually ends in SO MUCH this!!i use all methods above but when they dont work its drill time
i just bought 2 outrunners with the shaft sticking out the wrong side and the set screews were hoged out bad and locktighted in i had no other option but to drill heres whats left of the setscrew when im done
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back in the day when i used to be a small engine /auto/heavy equipment mechanic before nerds took over the industry and started waring gloves and calling them selves technicians i learned just about every method of extracting broken bolts and drilling them out everytime something came in to the shop that had broken bolts it was my job to fix them i got pretty good at itTBH.....id say for me, my luck, and the screws' locations where i decide to not pay attention for 2.5 seconds....it usually ends in SO MUCH this!!
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Stop!
Its Drillin' time! Lmbo!
Luckily i invested in Matco Tools' fancy/bougie "Hyper-step" drill bits with the ol' "Expensive tools warranty, so when i wear em down (supposedly cannot sharpen them?), I hand em in and get fresh ones on the spot! Believe me, ive drilled some metals in my days as an auto tech. . . .some of these RC screws are the Achilles heel of even the most perfect drilling techniques/bits/experience, etc .
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