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The Ascender axle's full potential, and how to utilize it.

CM9000

I wanna be Dave
Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
2,100
Location
Tecumseh
Let me start with this, this is all achievable using a dremel and a hand held power drill. But i have access to a drill press, band saw, and a belt sander. Also note.. Do not attempt to cut off your link/ shock mounts unless you have a lathe. Some mods require a design of a shock/ link mount and a print through shapeways or at home.

Narrowing your axles. Im sure you all know you can narrow your axles safely a total of 12mm. 6mm on both sides. But lets get narrower.

I cut a whole inch total off on my front and rear axles for a build i have under construction. But the front is a bit different.. I cut 1 inch off of ONE side.

The O.D. on these axles is around. 0.507 inches. So when narrowing more than 12mm or making a drivers side or passenger side diff you will need to have your own link mounts. So.. I had designed my own very quickly and had them printed through shapeways.

Making a drivers side pumpkin ( if you drive on the right side of the road )

First.. You will need a rear axle housing. Remove the link mounts. Cut both ends down to the same width of a front housing. Then cut the desired amount off of the left side. I dont recomend more than an inch. If you wish to keep the same width of a stock front setup, only cut one side of the rear housing down. Then you would have to extend one axle shaft and cut the other down to fit.


c99a7e18aca1a5b0a2e4df11cd6724df.jpg


6e821fd68c70cb4e6756bdc4b274f412.jpg


bc97860a6cf31849f80a87812aca414e.jpg


Rear 3 link panhard conversion: this is as simple as it gets guys and gals. Drill a rpm part# 80732 rear hub carrier out to 1/2 inch then lightly with a round file remove enough material for a tight press fit.

You can use an ascender fron chassis panhard mount, but instead of locating a pack of front shock mounts you can shape a traxxas part # 4932 for a panhard mount chassis side and drill holes where needed. (On either side of the fin)

Now, i dont have any pictures for this, but if you have a welder.... You can make a pretty wide ascender axle for a class 3 build using those spare rear housings you still have. Just extend the shafts.

The torque twist dilema... This is actually the main reason for this thread.. The rear axle. Remember those panhard mounts and custom link mounts? Your 3rd link needs to be parallel or "inline" with the lowest part of the chassis rails looking from the top of the vehicle. Shocks out as far as you can put them on the axle, and your panhard bar paralell with the ground at half suspension compression of the full vehicle. Remember your panhard bar and upper link mounting points will be on the opposite side of the chassis and axles.

I will provide more pictures and information when i get on the computer and place the pictures accordingly. So bare with me.


3b6c3f17d652ff19838daad2596bd5d4.jpg


d58a00d5525e10f5bb7d9f901b2cda50.jpg


82d146b325bc6b098e8599dfd1d35bc7.jpg


7877e8f0de56f2dbd676a5a001ae723b.jpg


b6c495680628f7cb940fcd4d3d37d9b1.jpg


7fcb716150401967aacddcf4f16c0c56.jpg
 
Last edited:
very nice.
this might be covered elsewhere but i gotta ask... how does one cut down axle shafts? or more specifically, how do you put flat spots back on for the diff to spin them? that always baffled me on custom axles.
 
Let me start with this, this is all achievable using a dremel and a hand held power drill. But i have access to a drill press, band saw, and a belt sander. Also note.. Do not attempt to cut off your link/ shock mounts unless you have a lathe. Some mods require a design of a shock/ link mount and a print through shapeways or at home.

Narrowing your axles. Im sure you all know you can narrow your axles safely a total of 12mm. 6mm on both sides. But lets get narrower.

I cut a whole inch total off on my front and rear axles for a build i have under construction. But the front is a bit different.. I cut 1 inch off of ONE side.

The O.D. on these axles is around. 0.507 inches. So when narrowing more than 12mm or making a drivers side or passenger side diff you will need to have your own link mounts. So.. I had designed my own very quickly and had them printed through shapeways.

Making a drivers side pumpkin ( if you drive on the right side of the road )

First.. You will need a rear axle housing. Remove the link mounts. Cut both ends down to the same width of a front housing. Then cut the desired amount off of the left side. I dont recomend more than an inch. If you wish to keep the same width of a stock front setup, only cut one side of the rear housing down. Then you would have to extend one axle shaft and cut the other down to fit.

Rear 3 link panhard conversion: this is as simple as it gets guys and gals. Drill a rpm part# 80732 rear hub carrier out to 1/2 inch then lightly with a round file remove enough material for a tight press fit.

You can use an ascender fron chassis panhard mount, but instead of locating a pack of front shock mounts you can shape a traxxas part # 4932 for a panhard mount chassis side and drill holes where needed. (On either side of the fin)

Now, i dont have any pictures for this, but if you have a welder.... You can make a pretty wide ascender axle for a class 3 build using those spare rear housings you still have. Just extend the shafts.

The torque twist dilema... This is actually the main reason for this thread.. The rear axle. Remember those panhard mounts and custom link mounts? Your 3rd link needs to be parallel or "inline" with the lowest part of the chassis rails looking from the top of the vehicle. Shocks out as far as you can put them on the axle, and your panhard bar paralell with the ground at half suspension compression of the full vehicle. Remember your panhard bar and upper link mounting points will be on the opposite side of the chassis and axles.

I will provide more pictures and information when i get on the computer and place the pictures accordingly. So bare with me.
c99a7e18aca1a5b0a2e4df11cd6724df.jpg
6e821fd68c70cb4e6756bdc4b274f412.jpg
bc97860a6cf31849f80a87812aca414e.jpg
3b6c3f17d652ff19838daad2596bd5d4.jpg
d58a00d5525e10f5bb7d9f901b2cda50.jpg
82d146b325bc6b098e8599dfd1d35bc7.jpg
7877e8f0de56f2dbd676a5a001ae723b.jpg
b6c495680628f7cb940fcd4d3d37d9b1.jpg
7fcb716150401967aacddcf4f16c0c56.jpg


Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

Looks good, is that the last of the housings I turned for you? And thanks for sharing! "thumbsup"
Ernie
 
very nice.
this might be covered elsewhere but i gotta ask... how does one cut down axle shafts? or more specifically, how do you put flat spots back on for the diff to spin them? that always baffled me on custom axles.

dremel with a cut off wheel. its time consuming. but the finish fit I use a flat file.

Good post! "thumbsup"

danke

Looks good, is that the last of the housings I turned for you? And thanks for sharing! "thumbsup"
Ernie

thanks, yes. I still have 1 front and 1 rear housing left. those are for a rebuild on the ol lady's bronco.

once I get time I will add more pictures to the top post and edit it more in depth. "thumbsup"
 
Very nice post. It's mealy for a relative noob such as myself. I have never thought to cut down my axles, though this new tacoma body out might be a good reason to. It's awesome to have specific threads like this to reference. Thanks for taking the time.

I am enjoying the current sub-forum blitz on the TT.
 
should this be a sticky? so that anybody can just click on it, and add to the knowledge or have a good read?
 
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