Master Basher
Rock Crawler
This thread is for the compilation of solutions for what I perceive to be the biggest issue with the new Bully 2 axles, the short steering knuckles.
This is a big advantage in several ways, the steering linkage almost never gets in the way of the rock crawling, and the tires have much less to get snagged on and rip open with. I'm also using a Hitec MS7990TH at 8volts. This is supposed to be giving my 660oz/in of torque. So I don't think the servo is to blame, as Rowdy said in another thread, the lack of mechanical advantage is at play here.
The problem for me is when I'm pulling up tight to a tall rock ledge to pull the front up tight to the rock with front wheel drive only. I have several "standard" rocks in which I can replicate this phenomenon repeatedly, every time. I have tried several solutions. One is extending the steering arms. Here is a picture of such:
I do not like this solution. I don't like the extra space out toward the tire, I've snagged and ripped tires 3 times in just a few weeks. I don't like adding anything on to the steering knuckles either. I have used aluminum for mine, I've seen cf (rmdesigns), stainless steel (rowdy), and g10(not sure who). I don't want to use any of this. I don't want to have arms that stick out close to my tires.
I have seen Joshs' drag link that goes to the opposite knuckle. I haven't tried this yet. It seems to be working for him, but I'm not sold on it until it passes my test rocks. I also use this area to mount my battery, and I'm not changing that soon, so I don't like this solution.
I recently went to this setup:
Here I need to lengthen the drag link a little so that it is perpendicular with the steering servo arm. THat will give me better movement with the short arm.
Using a 14mm eye to eye spacing on the holes in a very short servo arm. This solves my servo stalling problem completely, but it presents several other problems. First, is I don't have a tall offset mount servo arm, so my linkage has to go to the top of the servo arm. This is awkward and causes ball joints to be stressed a lot. Second, I'm going to have to mess with the drag link and it's length a good bit to get enough steering throw to take advantage of the bully 2 axles high amount of steering. You also lose a lot of control over the wheel at full right turn because of the steering arm is in line with the servo arm at full extension. I am happy with the steering link on top of the left knuckle, and then on bottom of the right knuckle. This give the most clearance for steering, and keeps the height of the stack on the right side down low to keep tires from snagging on it. I have tried this with the stock aluminum steering rod and then this tiny titanium rod. I ordered a 3/16" rod 160mm for use in the very near future.
Please feel free to add your solutions or pictures to this thread. I want to have a perfect set up, and I'm not there yet.
I feel like a servo arm that rises up from the servo would be ideal for this application so the drag link can go on the bottom of the servo arm. Anyone got any links for me?
This is a big advantage in several ways, the steering linkage almost never gets in the way of the rock crawling, and the tires have much less to get snagged on and rip open with. I'm also using a Hitec MS7990TH at 8volts. This is supposed to be giving my 660oz/in of torque. So I don't think the servo is to blame, as Rowdy said in another thread, the lack of mechanical advantage is at play here.
The problem for me is when I'm pulling up tight to a tall rock ledge to pull the front up tight to the rock with front wheel drive only. I have several "standard" rocks in which I can replicate this phenomenon repeatedly, every time. I have tried several solutions. One is extending the steering arms. Here is a picture of such:
I do not like this solution. I don't like the extra space out toward the tire, I've snagged and ripped tires 3 times in just a few weeks. I don't like adding anything on to the steering knuckles either. I have used aluminum for mine, I've seen cf (rmdesigns), stainless steel (rowdy), and g10(not sure who). I don't want to use any of this. I don't want to have arms that stick out close to my tires.
I have seen Joshs' drag link that goes to the opposite knuckle. I haven't tried this yet. It seems to be working for him, but I'm not sold on it until it passes my test rocks. I also use this area to mount my battery, and I'm not changing that soon, so I don't like this solution.
I recently went to this setup:
Here I need to lengthen the drag link a little so that it is perpendicular with the steering servo arm. THat will give me better movement with the short arm.
Using a 14mm eye to eye spacing on the holes in a very short servo arm. This solves my servo stalling problem completely, but it presents several other problems. First, is I don't have a tall offset mount servo arm, so my linkage has to go to the top of the servo arm. This is awkward and causes ball joints to be stressed a lot. Second, I'm going to have to mess with the drag link and it's length a good bit to get enough steering throw to take advantage of the bully 2 axles high amount of steering. You also lose a lot of control over the wheel at full right turn because of the steering arm is in line with the servo arm at full extension. I am happy with the steering link on top of the left knuckle, and then on bottom of the right knuckle. This give the most clearance for steering, and keeps the height of the stack on the right side down low to keep tires from snagging on it. I have tried this with the stock aluminum steering rod and then this tiny titanium rod. I ordered a 3/16" rod 160mm for use in the very near future.
Please feel free to add your solutions or pictures to this thread. I want to have a perfect set up, and I'm not there yet.
I feel like a servo arm that rises up from the servo would be ideal for this application so the drag link can go on the bottom of the servo arm. Anyone got any links for me?
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