Tommy's Class 1 Jeep

[Tommy R]

Cuts are done and I may be well on my way to making the narrowest AR60 axles mankind has ever known! :ror:

Before (technically, I'd already made one cut):

After removing approximately 66mm (just mocked up):

 

[Tommy R]

Glued and drying now. Looks like the link mounts should be okay with an SCX10 from a width standpoint, but the shocks will likely need to be mounted outboard of the mounts.

I clearly used too much JB Weld, but that's okay. This is primarily for proof of concept. I can make a cleaner housing if it all works out. :mrgreen:

 

[chino63]

That's really narrow, nice and clean... Kinda looks like a tlt axle now.

 

[Tommy R]

That's really narrow, nice and clean... Kinda looks like a tlt axle now.

Thanks, Dean. Yeah, they're tiny! Should be within 1mm of the overall width of a K44 when I'm done. Based on the fitment, I'll determine if I want to keep this width or if I should go a bit wider.

By the way, if anyone has stock Wraith axle stuff, please let me know! I'm looking for C's, knuckles, bearings, etc. Pretty much everything to complete these axles. I'm willing to pay for them, too. Not looking for freebies....necessarily. ;-)

 

[chino63]

So how you going to run the links? With it that narrow, you might have some steering issues. I 'll look to see if I can find my stock Wraith stuff. It's somewhere I know, just not sure where...

 

[Tommy R]

So how you going to run the links? With it that narrow, you might have some steering issues. I 'll look to see if I can find my stock Wraith stuff. It's somewhere I know, just not sure where...

I'm hoping to use the stock locations for the links. The shocks may need to be outboarded so they clear the framerails. This may limit my steering (tires contacting the shocks), but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Thanks for the offer, Dean! I've got some C's, knuckles, and rear lockouts coming. I still need some shock mounts and locker end caps (inside the housing), as well as some bearings.

Meanwhile, here's a pic of the "Stubby" next to a built SCX10 axle: :mrgreen:

 

[chino63]

If you have (or know someone with) a TIG, just add some tabs to the top of your C's, then you should have no shock tire contact.

 

[Tommy R]

If you have (or know someone with) a TIG, just add some tabs to the top of your C's, then you should have no shock tire contact.

Is that an offer, big guy?? :ror: I don't have a TIG (yet!), but I may definitely consider that if it helps me get the track width I'm after. Thanks, Dean!

 

[Shinjari]

Subscribed! This is exactly what I plan to do so can't wait to see how or if this is do-able! =) What is that aluminum piece currently sitting the 'stubby'? Looks like some sort of link mount using existing holes on the housing.

 

[Tommy R]

Yep, that's what it is. I made a deal with ROWDY RACING for some, but I don't know if they're available for sale right now. Here's a marginally better pic...

 

[chino63]

Is that an offer, big guy?? :ror: I don't have a TIG (yet!), but I may definitely consider that if it helps me get the track width I'm after. Thanks, Dean!

Sorry, no TIG here either.

Wish I did, I'd do it for you for sure. The guy next to my shop does though, full sheet metal/welding shop, I'll ask if it's doable.

 

[Tommy R]

With some C's and knuckles mocked up it doesn't look quite so stubby.

One issue is that it appears it'll only end up being just a little over a 1/2" narrower than the stock SCX axles. I think I was looking for about 1" narrower overall. It would certainly still be an improvement, though. Of course, one thing I forgot about is that the C's aren't pressed on all the way. They hit some of the excess JB Weld, which prevents them from fully seating on the axle housing. So I might be able to get a little more width out of them.

When time allows, I'll finish mocking these up as an assembly and then I'll look into what it'll take to install them under the Jeep.

 

[Shinjari]

Looks good, to make it narrower would you be able to get rid of that ~1/2" space between the housing and the link mount holes on the passenger side to make it more like the driver side?

 

[Tommy R]

Looks good, to make it narrower would you be able to get rid of that ~1/2" space between the housing and the link mount holes on the passenger side to make it more like the driver side?

Yes, I certainly could. My concern with doing that, however, is that it's really going to move my shock mounts inboard pretty far....possibly too far. I'll know more once I do a mock up installation. "thumbsup"

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

damn nice axle hack bro!
are the pumkins bigger/lower than a SCX?

 

[Tommy R]

damn nice axle hack bro!
are the pumkins bigger/lower than a SCX?

Thanks, Cory! I'd have to take a closer look to verify, but they appear to be the exact same height, but the pumpkins aren't as wide. And the axle tubes are smaller, too. Add the scale appearance and it's definitely a winner in my book...

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

wow great news. i assumed everything was much bigger on those axles. but i should have known you would have done your research first.
they look killer.

 

[Calderwood]

wow great news. i assumed everything was much bigger on those axles. but i should have known you would have done your research first.
they look killer.

...and if you want them to have even better clearance... Since they have a threaded boss in the bottom of the pumpkin, it makes shaving them pretty straight forward. You can use the boss to attach the new bottom plate after the shave.

 

[Absurd]

I took two short sides ended up with what I like, I had the same issue but clearly not THAT small of a issue.. my opinion would make a 3 link to just under the servo and put a panbar making it easy to clear your drive shaft. also the ability for chassis mounted.

Can not wait to see how they hold up had this exact idea rattling around but no where near the ability to do this "thumbsup"

 

[Shinjari]

ANy updates? Want to see these short axles under something =)