jwilli2213
Quarry Creeper
how do i eliminate or make torque roll less thanks for any help.
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torque roll
- Thread starter jwilli2213
- Start date
Try thicker oil and a stiffer spring in the left rear shock. Link set-up can play a role too, try moving your upper links around, if possible.
Changing springs and oil will reduce it or make it less apparent.
Link geometry will be the only way to eliminate it. You'll probably never get rid of 100% of it, thats just the nature of shaft driven trucks. But on my 2 current 2.2s I say it 90% gone You only see it udner extreme situations such as when your tryign to climd an under cut ledge where yours tires are turning and the truck hasn't went foward yet, or when you are on an EXTREME verticle wher the front tires are barely on the ground.
Link geometry will be the only way to eliminate it. You'll probably never get rid of 100% of it, thats just the nature of shaft driven trucks. But on my 2 current 2.2s I say it 90% gone You only see it udner extreme situations such as when your tryign to climd an under cut ledge where yours tires are turning and the truck hasn't went foward yet, or when you are on an EXTREME verticle wher the front tires are barely on the ground.
Reducing the CG on your chassis or raising the roll center helps chassis roll. To reduce the back squatting of one side you will need to thicken oil and/or spring stiffness. You can also stand up the rear shocks a bit to help. To keep the front from lifting on a climb there isn't much that can be done once the rest is taken care of, unless you just add more weight to your wheels.
It is complex really, and there are multiple factors in helping fight torque twist. I disagree that link placement alone could totally eliminate torque twist. Shocks play a vital roll in controlling a sprung vehicle.
It is complex really, and there are multiple factors in helping fight torque twist. I disagree that link placement alone could totally eliminate torque twist. Shocks play a vital roll in controlling a sprung vehicle.
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Yes like JRH said they are many factors that contribute to torque twist. Adressing one alone won't prevent it.
I forgot about the whole weight issues. Like JRH said reducing the center of gravity will help ALOT. Try to get as much weight as possible down low and off the chassis.
Lower CG and reduce sprung weight, tune the shocks and their mounting position, play with link geometry. All of this combined will help get torque twist to an acceptable level.
I forgot about the whole weight issues. Like JRH said reducing the center of gravity will help ALOT. Try to get as much weight as possible down low and off the chassis.
Lower CG and reduce sprung weight, tune the shocks and their mounting position, play with link geometry. All of this combined will help get torque twist to an acceptable level.
I would like to make a note that changing link geometry will change the roll center of the chassis. If the center of gravity of the chassis is below the roll center, you wont get torque roll. Torque roll is when a chassis leans to one side when you hit the throttle, compressing both front and rear shocks on the same side.
solomon7
Rock Crawler
Roll center? Anybody care to define? I know IC, AS, CG just not roll center:roll:
Roll center is the path that the axle rolls in relation to the chassis. A rig with a very low roll center but high CG of the chassis will be floppy and the chassis will lean over on sidehills. A rig with a high roll center and low CG on the chassis can actually lean into the hills, although this can cause other problems like articulation steer.
solomon7
Rock Crawler
OK understood. Thanks JRH!
John care to explain IC?
I know alot of the terms, and the basics but I'm still prett stupid when it comes to suspension geometry. Like I said in another post I'm just the stupid driver.
I was one of the last ones to give up and the shaftys at Super class comps rigs check my sig, so I do know alot about torque twist and how to reduce it. But I don't know enough about roll center and IC to carry on a conversation about it.
I know alot of the terms, and the basics but I'm still prett stupid when it comes to suspension geometry. Like I said in another post I'm just the stupid driver.
I was one of the last ones to give up and the shaftys at Super class comps rigs check my sig, so I do know alot about torque twist and how to reduce it. But I don't know enough about roll center and IC to carry on a conversation about it.
Instant center is a tough one on a small scale. I will spend some time on it after class later this evening.
K_B
I wanna be Dave
I'm the same way. I did all the reading on anti-squat and how to adjust that, but roll center escapes me on these things. On something like an 1/8 buggy, it's a simple matter of raising or lowering the camber links. It seems to me that a low roll center on these buggers is just gonna be a matter of keeping your CG as low as possible.
http://www.raceglides.com.au/TechInfo.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_center
Those can get you started.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roll_center
Those can get you started.
The Instant Center (IC) is where the upper and lower links would intersect if extended. The IC is basically the point that your rig is being pushed and accelerated from. A line drawn from the tire contact patch and the IC creates the Line Of Force (LOF). If the LOF is above the center of gravity on the accelerating body, the suspension will try to walk under the body and jack up the suspension. This is called anti-squat, since the vehicle does the opposite of squatting. When the LOF is below the CG the rear of the rig will squat under throttle. To complicate matters, when there is any variation in contact patch it changes everything. Also, many rigs might have some unloading in the front suspension on a climb. This would effectively lower the GC of the rig in relation to the rear suspension IC. This increases anti-squat even more. Basically, you have to hold a 4 link in the sweet spot with shocks and preload if no squat or dive is wanted. As you get further and further away from the neutral spot the forces get more effective and harder to control.
compliments of raceglides.com
compliments of raceglides.com
bondt
Pebble Pounder
that's an interesting read on raceglides.com. sorry if this has been discussed in another thread but i haven't run across it yet. Are they saying that adjusting the right rear upper link's length will do the same thing for torque twist that running a heavier spring at the same location would do? if this is so, what other effects would this have? and how does triangulating the upper links affect the out come? does it increase or decrease the results?
Or am i reading this all wrong?
Or am i reading this all wrong?
