Trekker link questions

[agent00111]

Hi guys, I'm building some links tonight for my Losi micro trekker. I've gleened a lot from the threads but still have a few questions for y'all:

1. I know that the Trekker has longer wheelbase compared to the losi micro crawler. Given that, what's a good target wheelbase length for a trekker (and I want to use this mostly for comp-style crawling)? Since I won't be using a scale chassis, I'm not trying to lengthen to fit, just trying to see what is 'good long' versus 'stupid long'.

2. What link lengths are you using if you have the TMC v2 topless chassis? Ridgeback?

3. The stock uppers are bent, not sure if I really need to bend these since they'd look like they clear the shocks even if they were straight. Any reason to bend these to match, or has anyone used straight uppers...any issues?

4. To lengthen upper/lower links, do I just add same amount of extension (ball to ball), or do I use some fun math calculations, or do I just stage my axle and try to take some good measurements where I want to end up?

5. Lastly would bending lower links help with clearance, or do you guys find that clearance is fine with straight lower links? And if you bend your lowers, what are some tips with respect to angle, and where to bend.

Thanks guys! I'll post some pics as I complete the links...

 

[Slambaam]

bend your lower links, you will see great improvements in getting over ledges. i just made myself some on friday for mcrc and i was so impressed at what it can tackle now!

 

[8695Beaters]

1) My Micro uses a 5" wheelsbase. Most people on here seem to use something between 4.5" and 5". That's why I like adjustable links: you can guess and check!

2) I don't use either chassis, so I can't comment on this, but again most people, regardless of chassis, are around 5".

3) If you're swapping the chassis it doesn't matter. Spacing the shocks in will also fix clearance.

4) You can gain or lose a bit of caster by changing how long the upper links are. Best to just set the axle, measure (twice!), and cut.

5) Definitely bend the links. Links are usually bent 30 degrees. Either bend them in the middle or have the bends staggered towards the ends.

 

[agent00111]

Thanks guys, helpful info! I went ahead and just kept stock trekker length which is about 5". I went with straight uppers and bent lowers (I still have 2 more lowers to go). I was pretty happy with the links in general, they came out clean and consistent in size. The only problem I have is bending the links: my first one the tube got kinked, and the second one I was dumb enough to mark the middle by scoring it with the sharp calipher arm, so the tube split at the score. Any tips on bending the links?

I changed the upper links to straight and I think that's a cool look, at full compression it barely touches the shock springs, so I'll keep them straight for now. Since I suck at bending links. Thankfully, the 2/56 threaded rod and the 1/8 alu tubing is cheap, so I'll have a few do-overs I think until I get it right.

 

[8695Beaters]

Use some heat. A propane torch on low and careful application of said flame will give you nice bends.

 

[agent00111]

I thought about heat but was worried about heat transfer to the plastic rod ends. If you use heat before you add rod ends, how do you keep the threaded rod from sliding around/out?

 

[8695Beaters]

A dab of glue or tape will work. You shouldn't need a ton of heat to soften aluminum.

 

[Fungi]

Bend it at the end. Then the aluminum can be straight.

 

[agent00111]

Right-on. I just kept my rod ends on, and used heat gun to warm the aluminum up, and that seemed to do the trick.

 

[fraze]

I bent mine to angle of the stock uppers on the TT stuck it on there and just eyeballed it came out nice I didn't bother with aluminum covers covered it with liquid tape looks.decent and o did everything by eyeball measurement just made sure they where the same length

 

[Sh0rtBus]

Reviving an old thread here, but what ball cups did you use for these? Micro T's?

 

[agent00111]

Reviving an old thread here, but what ball cups did you use for these? Micro T's?

Yes, search for part number: LOSB1049

If you're doing a full link set, you'll want to by two packages of these! I think they come with 12 long and 2 short ones. I always trim 5mm off of the long ones so the ratio of end to rod 'looks' right.

 

[Sh0rtBus]

Why would I need two packages to do a full set? Unless you're talking about steering links, too.

 

[agent00111]

Why would I need two packages to do a full set? Unless you're talking about steering links, too.

There are 14 rod ends to the set, 12 long, 2 short. If you are doing all links (4 lower, 4 upper), thats 8 links. Two ends per link, so 16 ends total. If you are doing just lower links you'd be fine with one set.

I like having extras, sometimes I strip a rod end, and sometimes I want to mock up another set of links to try different lengths and angles.

 

[Sh0rtBus]

There are 14 rod ends to the set, 12 long, 2 short. If you are doing all links (4 lower, 4 upper), thats 8 links. Two ends per link, so 16 ends total. If you are doing just lower links you'd be fine with one set.

I like having extras, sometimes I strip a rod end, and sometimes I want to mock up another set of links to try different lengths and angles.

Yup....I'm an idiot. My math was a little (a lot) off. My LHS only has one pack at the moment, so I guess I'll start with lowers and maybe steering.

 

[Sh0rtBus]

Okay, so I just got back from one of my LHS's and picked up the 2/56 threaded rod and some 1/8th carbon tubing. Yes, that means I probably won't be bending the lowers like I originally wanted, but I thought these might beef up the suspension a little, especially the lowers that slide over rocks, etc. without adding too much extra weight. Plus....it'll look cool!

 

[agent00111]

Since we're dealing with light rigs (about 1lb or less) and slow speeds, the 2/56 althread alone seems to provide enough strength: tubing doesn't really help that much with respect to re-enforcment. Insofar as tubing is concerned, functionally it helps lower links by sliding better over rocks (threaded rod will definitely not slide as well!). I'm not sure how well the CF tubing would slide compared to aluminum. I'd like to swap out with delrin tubing at some point.

For the lower links, likely you'll benefit more from a 30deg bend (especially rear lower links). You can test this out by rolling your micro over a fat book: you'll see where a straight link hit the book corner before the rear tires can grip. I had at one point had my front lowers bent 30deg as well, but found that the skid plate would get caught up on the edge (ridgeback chassis), and that went away if I uses straight lower links in front.

But carbon tubing would look boss, I'll give you that!! "thumbsup"

 

[Sh0rtBus]

Well, I started this project this morning and we'll just say it's been "fun" and leave it at that. I think I've screwed up 4 ball cups at this point either by stripping them out trying to thread them onto the 2/56 rod, or threading them on too far and pushing the rod through the ends. So after about 3 hours so far, I have two rear lower links finished. They are just a tad longer than stock, and unfortunately I don't have measurements, as I'm just eyeballing them. I'd say maybe 1/4" longer than stock maybe. Hopefully, I can at least get the lowers done today with the time I left before leaving out of town. Not sure I want to mess with uppers at this point, but I'm sure I will soon.

So enough with the bullshit and on to the pics I know you're curious to see. And please forgive my cell pics. Left my DSLR at home, but I'll try to get some better ones this weekend.

My TT as is currently sits

Rear Lower Links

Rear Lower Links Installed

Upskirt of Rear Lower Links (and yes the rear links are inboarded and shocks outboarded)