Ok I have built a few full size link suspensions and upgraded some jeep suspension and geometries have to be correct to get the least amount of bump steer in a 3 link drag link suspension. I m no suspension expert but to reduce bump steer the setup has to be correct.
Kudos to Redcat on the Wendigo no measurable bump steer at all! The front wheels dont turn either direction under compression or extension of the suspension. It is quite obvious that they actually put some time into the geometry. The drag link and panhard are the same length and very parallel with each other. It will take more then a servo mount or relocation to get it any better and I really dont see any problem with the factory design and what it was built for.
So here is a myth that you need to move the drag link over the top of the tie rod on the steering knuckle. Well yes and no. Yes you want to get the drag link and panhard as level as possible BUT if you change the angle of the drag link on the Wendigo without changing the angle of the panhard to be parallel with it then you have just introduced more bump steer into the steering. If you change the length of the drag link or panhard you pretty much gotta change the length of the other. That's just the facts and geometries and Redcat done very good on the Wendigo in that department.
I seen a few videos of people doing the ott mod with the draglink so I got my Wendigo out and took some measurements and wow Redcat actually done good. Now I know for a fact they just introduced bump steer into a system that was designed on purpose with very very little bump steer.
The other mod is moving the panhard outwards on the frame end. Ounce again most of this type of mod lengthens the panhard without lengthening the tie rod. So introduced bump steer again on a system that has very very little bump steer.
On compression and extension there is very very little bump steer.
Now some of these mods can possibly introduce enough suspension bind that it seems as though it cured a problem that really isn't there to speak of in a 3 link setup
Now with a link suspension like the Wendigo has . A triangulated 4 link rear. That setup has some flex steer or torque steer.
So test for yourself check bump steer on the Wendigo. Compress and extend the suspension look to see if the wheels physically turn left or right. You will notice very little if any in stock form.
Now do the same test and watch the rear drivers side tire move forward and backward. Unhook the tie rod and you will see the rear wheel doing the same exact thing moving forward and backward.
Oh the Joy's of link suspension lol. That is what most people are wrongly and mistakenly calling bump steer.
That is torque steer or flex steer. And changing servo locations or tie rod/lanyard locations isnt going to solve that.
So its obvious that the people doing the servo relocation and or the tie rod ott have no idea how a 3 link works or have actually measured or calculated any geometries in the mod versus stock.
Just wanted to put some facts and truths out there about the Wendigo.
Ton of good suspension geometry videos and websites out there to learn and research from
Kudos to Redcat on the Wendigo no measurable bump steer at all! The front wheels dont turn either direction under compression or extension of the suspension. It is quite obvious that they actually put some time into the geometry. The drag link and panhard are the same length and very parallel with each other. It will take more then a servo mount or relocation to get it any better and I really dont see any problem with the factory design and what it was built for.
So here is a myth that you need to move the drag link over the top of the tie rod on the steering knuckle. Well yes and no. Yes you want to get the drag link and panhard as level as possible BUT if you change the angle of the drag link on the Wendigo without changing the angle of the panhard to be parallel with it then you have just introduced more bump steer into the steering. If you change the length of the drag link or panhard you pretty much gotta change the length of the other. That's just the facts and geometries and Redcat done very good on the Wendigo in that department.
I seen a few videos of people doing the ott mod with the draglink so I got my Wendigo out and took some measurements and wow Redcat actually done good. Now I know for a fact they just introduced bump steer into a system that was designed on purpose with very very little bump steer.
The other mod is moving the panhard outwards on the frame end. Ounce again most of this type of mod lengthens the panhard without lengthening the tie rod. So introduced bump steer again on a system that has very very little bump steer.
On compression and extension there is very very little bump steer.
Now some of these mods can possibly introduce enough suspension bind that it seems as though it cured a problem that really isn't there to speak of in a 3 link setup
Now with a link suspension like the Wendigo has . A triangulated 4 link rear. That setup has some flex steer or torque steer.
So test for yourself check bump steer on the Wendigo. Compress and extend the suspension look to see if the wheels physically turn left or right. You will notice very little if any in stock form.
Now do the same test and watch the rear drivers side tire move forward and backward. Unhook the tie rod and you will see the rear wheel doing the same exact thing moving forward and backward.
Oh the Joy's of link suspension lol. That is what most people are wrongly and mistakenly calling bump steer.
That is torque steer or flex steer. And changing servo locations or tie rod/lanyard locations isnt going to solve that.
So its obvious that the people doing the servo relocation and or the tie rod ott have no idea how a 3 link works or have actually measured or calculated any geometries in the mod versus stock.
Just wanted to put some facts and truths out there about the Wendigo.
Ton of good suspension geometry videos and websites out there to learn and research from
