JohnB
Quarry Creeper
Is Blue Monkey the only company still producing Wraith-length trailing arms?
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Wheelbase vs trailing arm length
- Thread starter SteerAndStuff
- Start date
JohnB
Quarry Creeper
Thanks! I just saw that after re-reading the entire thread.
I was hoping there were some lower cost options available. Got to pay to play. Thanks again! "thumbsup"
I think $50 is roughly what you will pay for any of them. Ssd makes some for a little cheaper but I'm not sure the quality or what the material is. I wasn't a huge fan of the vanquish TA's. Haven't heard any complaints about the blue monkey or the Jec racing ones.
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When Tmaxx shafts are uncut are they long enough for the bomber rear? I'm running mip's at the moment but the offset ar60 and incision 1/4" links leave little to know space in between the link and driveshaft
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Should have specified. I have 129mm Jec racing TA's in route.
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Picked some up today. Is there a trick to get the yoke on the hub?
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84yoda
I wanna be Dave
They have 2 flat spots inside, it needs be drilled out (5mm).
It's really hard to explain without showing you but I'll try. First I put the ball with one pin in one "ear" then I push down on the whole thing against the table or floor until the other pin pops into the other ear. That's the easy one. Now I do the same with the yoke. Put one pin into one ear then, holding the slider shaft for leverage, I place the yoke on the table standing up and push down on the whole thing until the other pin pops into the other ear. It takes a good amount of force, technique, finesse, luck, but once you develop a style, it gets much easier. Sometimes, I have to use a small screwdriver to pry the ear out just a bit for the pin on the U ball to drop in. My LHS guy was telling me there's a tool of some sort but I've never seen one and I've done it enough now it's pretty easy.
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
I was looking at a set of the TMaxx, 1/16 Summit, MErevo, and 1/10 Revo shafts on fleaBay and wondering which would fit. Then I gave up and got some WB8 shafts.
Is it TMaxx only that fit? Also, would a pair of Snap ring pliers work to spread the yokes open?
Is it TMaxx only that fit? Also, would a pair of Snap ring pliers work to spread the yokes open?
I got them done. I found that a smaller pair of needle nose pliers worked well. As I rotated them in place the head of the pliers helped spread them apart. Wasn't too difficult at all. Took maybe 15min to do all 4.
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Runfrcover
Newbie
I mocked up my crawler last night. Stock TH arms with traxas rod ends on #8-32 threaded rod uppers.
Drive shaft is the mid length components from the parts tree and almost seems to be made for this!
With the shorter arm length I will need to run softer springs which will also help with ride height. Long term I may fab a new upper shock mount and swap to links rather than the trailing arms but I will see how she runs as it is now.
The TH arms are 24mm shorter than stock so I drew up the stock 130mm (on centers) uppers and shorter 106mm replacements to suit the TH with matched offset. The pinion angle looks good and articulation is good. There is slight tire rub at max twist but nothing I'm going to worry about.
It certainly looks a lot better!
Does anyone have measurements for the different link lengths? I've been messing around with my rear length and can't seem to get a good pinion angle. I'm using rtr wraith plastic links not trailing arms with the shock mounted to the axle and rtr plastic uppers as well. Am I running into trouble because the bends? I want to test the different lengths out before spending the $$ on new TA's and links to see if I'm Gna go wraith or twin hammers. I've swapped so many different links in and out, cage on and off, so many times....
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
You've got stock Wraith links? Yeti/Bomber is 16mm longer. TH is 10mm shorter.
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Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
No they are not. If you have the stock Wraith links is then measure the uppers. Add or subtract for the corresponding B/Y or TH upper length. If you have poor driveshaft angle, like all stock Axial links, then I would add 1-2mm to them to correct it and clock the output shaft from the axle up.
If you do not have a full set of stock Wraith links, but you said you did, then some else will need to chime in. There may be some deviation in exact lengths from vendor to vendor but I wouldn't think it'd be more than a mm.
If you do not have a full set of stock Wraith links, but you said you did, then some else will need to chime in. There may be some deviation in exact lengths from vendor to vendor but I wouldn't think it'd be more than a mm.
