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Yeti 17mm Hex 1/8 Buggy Wheels

DiKey

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
177
Location
Greece
I use my yeti for bashing.Is there any hex hub adapter I can fit in?I know it's a scale truck but I don't mind for the look,I just want to be reliable and good in handling.Low profile buggy tires against the 2.2 stock tall tires will be perfect for high speed steering I think.

I know rear axle is narrower so this is an issue too for non adjustable hub wheels.
 
I used the MIP adapters on my slash. Held up to me beating the snot out of it. I think they would work just fine on the Yeti.

Also, an SSD Wide Axle kit would fix the rear offset.

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I tried 17mm rustler hex hubs and they fit good but I keep destroying bigger bearings in the front knuckles.Is this normal?Is there a solution for that?

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Sounds like it's pulling too hard on the axle. The drive pin slot is probably too deep on the adapter. When the wheel is tightened, I bet the adapter is pushing hard on the outer bearing, too. Pulls everything together too tightly.

Maybe if you sanded a bit off the adapter, so that it doesn't touch the outside bearing. Would make that drive pin slot more shallow and it would loosen things up. But that's just one idiot on the internet's opinion.

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I don't want to damage the hubs because I use it to the rustler.I had the same bearings broke with stock axial hubs also.Maybe there is something wrong with vanquish knuckles?
 
I've read that the axial u-joint axles rub on vanquish knuckles. Looks like yours does in the pictures. Could also be causing bearing stress?

I can tell you I use vanquish knuckles and the Incision axles and they don't rub and I don't have bearing issues.

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What if I get cheap aluminum knuckles?Would the axle shafts fit better then?They are cheaper than vanquish VDI shafts.
 
Man, I sure can't recommend trading vanquish knuckles for chinesium ones. I'd put the dogbone axles on before that.

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I will try stock plastic knuckles with rustler hubs and axial universals first and if that doesn't work then I will get a set of cheap knuckles to test,then last option will be dogbones or vanquish shafts.I already broke four 10x15x4mm bearings and I don't know why.
 
I'd suggest it's where the shaft is rubbing on the knuckle is causing weird loading on the bearing. Any signs of wear/interference like that are never a good thing.
2 best options I'd suggest are;
lower the ride height so it doesn't sit at full down travel which is where the shaft rubs (has added bonus of lowering CoG & improving handling)
clean up the back of the knuckle with a dremel till there is shaft clearance, won't take much seeing as it's most of the way there already on it's own
 
There is no rubbing at full suspension travel.Some pics at full steering with full extended front shocks.

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So your saying the wear on the knuckle only occurs when the bearing fails?
The rubbing looked worse than that I thought but it could be.
Unless the 17mm adapter really loads the the bearing like Pooh posted there's no good reason a smaller, lighter wheel should kill bearings, driving incidents excluded.
 
That was my thought.Buggy wheels are very light in comparison with stock beadlocks with 2.2 tall tires.I also destroyed the bearings with 2.2 wheels so I think knuckles is the problem.When I put the bearings in the knuckles the fit is very tight.I hit them with a hammer and a cross wrench to go all the way in.They are not go in just with hands.Maybe I need to cut with a dremel inside the knuckles for bearings don't sit so tight?
 
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Bearings are super tight in my vanquish knuckles, too. Don't think that's the problem.

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Bearings shouldn't be so tight as to have to drift them in with a hammer.
I never had a VP knuckle bearing that tight, but I have had them be difficult to install straight, I always put the inner on the stub axle & then feed through into the outer bearing to align then both on the way through.
If the bearing doesn't drop in I suggest putting the knuckle in boiling water for a few minutes to get it to expand, hopefully get enough clearance for bearing to drop right in.
 
I don't understand Vanquish.You pay more for more trouble.

And they suppose to be direct replacement for stock knuckles.If I wanted to make my own knuckles in the end I didn't need to pay 40$
 
STRC has direct replacement knuckles. Vanquish has a slightly different design for presumably more strength.

I had 2 sets of the $20 aluminum Chinese knuckle/castor blocks. They are very poorly made and the geometry is totally different. Along with having to adjust my toe and camber, I lost a noticeable amount of steering angle. The knuckles also sit closer to the diff, so you have to remove the rubber bumper in the diff outputs.

Actually broke the aluminum castor block on a jump and broke down and bought vanquish. They work on a whole different level. Great stuff if you ask me.

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