BrianP
Pebble Pounder
I was wondering what would be a good 2s lipo battery upgrade to go with the stock electronics of Yeti jr
Not sure what size battery to get.
Not sure what size battery to get.
Last edited:
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Yeti Jr Battery upgrade
- Thread starter BrianP
- Start date
You need a 3d printed battery relocation tray, it brings the battery to the front and you can use à Zippy 2s lipo 2200mah.
My electronics are upgraded but it also works with the stock electronics
Look for Anthony Chwalek on Facebook, he sells the tray.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
My electronics are upgraded but it also works with the stock electronics
Look for Anthony Chwalek on Facebook, he sells the tray.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
BrianP
Pebble Pounder
WOW, Tons of upgrades. I will upgrade as needed. just would like more speed.
I know things will break faster, but you need to start somewhere.
Thanks, Brian
I know things will break faster, but you need to start somewhere.
Thanks, Brian
I can list my mods for everyone but keep in mind this is my own personnal taste and addiction to ''upgrades''. Most of it is not required to have fun with the truck.
Basic upgrades
The stock electronics SUCK and WILL fail at some point, sooner than later. I strongly suggest you go ahead and invest into a nice power system to get you going.
The relocation tray allows the use of a regular size low profile servo and moves the weight bias forward.
-Stock motor (i keep a traxxas titan 380 18T for backup)
-Hobbywing 1060
-Tactic TR325 rx
-Battery relocation tray (Facebook a guy named Anthony Chwalek)
-Solar D770 servo, low profile
-Zippy Compact 2s 2200mah lipo
The stock steering components are so tight that they will kill the stock servo. You need to change these almost right out of the box.
-GPM Racing steering links or RC18T turnbuckles
-GPM Racing or Hot Racing steering rack
Recommended upgrades
Once you get the basics done, you can have fun and start breaking more stuff ! These upgrades are mostly for the drivetrain to make it bullet proof for bashing / trailing and general abuse.
-Fast Eddy bearings (Jr kit)
-GPM Racing aluminium driveshafts (front and rear)
-GPM Racing steel rear axle shafts
-GPM Racing steel front CVDs
-GPM Racing rear locker (fits the front too if you want to lock it)
I don't know if it's too much but also added new tires, wheels and foams to reduce roll-overs and put some weight down low.
-RC4WD Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 1.55 (1/4inch taller and wider than stock)
-Boom Racing Terra 1.55 aluminium beadlocks
-Crawler innovation Deuce Wild single stage 1.55 foams (For 3.4'' to 3.6'' tires)
Going all out into madness upgrades
These are NOT required in any shape or form but i had the itch to work on something while i waited for my Bomber RR10 parts so i opened up the Jr completly and started wrenching...
GPM Racing aluminium parts:
-Front shock tower
-Front shocks (Don't use them anymore, travel is too short)
-Front arms
-C-hubs and knuckles
-Rear shock towers
-Rear shocks (They are bigger bore 10mm vs 7mm stock)
-Rear A-Arm + stabilizer
-Rear trailing arms
I got the GPM racing wider wheel hexes but they don't fit my Boom Racing wheels. They do fit the stock plastic wheels if you keep those.
Future upgrades:
All this aluminium is starting to be heavy for the stock motor so i am planning to go Brushless when it dies. With the chinese stepping up their game it's a lot more affordable than you think.
-Hobbywing 16BL30 ESC (25$CAN on Asiatee)
-Racerstar brushless motor 2440 4000Kv or 2445 3600Kv(16$CAN on banggood)
Its a 4-pole sensorless system but the review are 100% positive even for the cogging at low speed.
-ESC LED Program card
I tried to make my own rear links with RC4WD hardware but it failed since the mounting points on the rear axle are way too small. So i will have to try the hot racing parts one day for a real 4-link articulation.
-Hot Racing Carbon Fiber Graphite Rear Links Set
You can judge me if you want but i don't regret it, i don't smoke/drink or spend money on gambling so these RC trucks get all my attention
I will add pictures tonight with the wheels/tires installed.
Basic upgrades
The stock electronics SUCK and WILL fail at some point, sooner than later. I strongly suggest you go ahead and invest into a nice power system to get you going.
The relocation tray allows the use of a regular size low profile servo and moves the weight bias forward.
-Stock motor (i keep a traxxas titan 380 18T for backup)
-Hobbywing 1060
-Tactic TR325 rx
-Battery relocation tray (Facebook a guy named Anthony Chwalek)
-Solar D770 servo, low profile
-Zippy Compact 2s 2200mah lipo
The stock steering components are so tight that they will kill the stock servo. You need to change these almost right out of the box.
-GPM Racing steering links or RC18T turnbuckles
-GPM Racing or Hot Racing steering rack
Recommended upgrades
Once you get the basics done, you can have fun and start breaking more stuff ! These upgrades are mostly for the drivetrain to make it bullet proof for bashing / trailing and general abuse.
-Fast Eddy bearings (Jr kit)
-GPM Racing aluminium driveshafts (front and rear)
-GPM Racing steel rear axle shafts
-GPM Racing steel front CVDs
-GPM Racing rear locker (fits the front too if you want to lock it)
I don't know if it's too much but also added new tires, wheels and foams to reduce roll-overs and put some weight down low.
-RC4WD Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 1.55 (1/4inch taller and wider than stock)
-Boom Racing Terra 1.55 aluminium beadlocks
-Crawler innovation Deuce Wild single stage 1.55 foams (For 3.4'' to 3.6'' tires)
Going all out into madness upgrades
These are NOT required in any shape or form but i had the itch to work on something while i waited for my Bomber RR10 parts so i opened up the Jr completly and started wrenching...
GPM Racing aluminium parts:
-Front shock tower
-Front shocks (Don't use them anymore, travel is too short)
-Front arms
-C-hubs and knuckles
-Rear shock towers
-Rear shocks (They are bigger bore 10mm vs 7mm stock)
-Rear A-Arm + stabilizer
-Rear trailing arms
I got the GPM racing wider wheel hexes but they don't fit my Boom Racing wheels. They do fit the stock plastic wheels if you keep those.
Future upgrades:
All this aluminium is starting to be heavy for the stock motor so i am planning to go Brushless when it dies. With the chinese stepping up their game it's a lot more affordable than you think.
-Hobbywing 16BL30 ESC (25$CAN on Asiatee)
-Racerstar brushless motor 2440 4000Kv or 2445 3600Kv(16$CAN on banggood)
Its a 4-pole sensorless system but the review are 100% positive even for the cogging at low speed.
-ESC LED Program card
I tried to make my own rear links with RC4WD hardware but it failed since the mounting points on the rear axle are way too small. So i will have to try the hot racing parts one day for a real 4-link articulation.
-Hot Racing Carbon Fiber Graphite Rear Links Set
You can judge me if you want but i don't regret it, i don't smoke/drink or spend money on gambling so these RC trucks get all my attention
I will add pictures tonight with the wheels/tires installed.
Last edited:
There is no link, it's a guy on Facebook. His name is Anthony Chwalek.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Glad I'm not the only one who's gpm wider hexes doesn't fit there aftermarket wheels. I started to sand the hexes to fit my gearhead rims but haven't finished yet.