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-   -   93 Jeep Wrangler Replica Build. (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-scale-rigs/309526-93-jeep-wrangler-replica-build.html)

Beefalobart 04-03-2011 08:56 PM

93 Jeep Wrangler Replica Build.
 
I am building a replica of my 1:1 1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ. Its my daily driver and weekend warrior. Current specs include 4.0 liter engine, Torqueflite auto trans, 2.5" Skyjacker spring lift, 1" Daystar body lift, 33" BFG KM2, and cut Flat fender conversion.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3672865_n.jpg


So this is what Im basing my build on, and will be doing what I can to make it look as close to my real Jeep as I can. Im starting with a Losi Mini Rock Crawler (MRC) and for the chassis I will use the TCS L-Trail chassis. Body wise I chose the Tamiya Wrangler since its the best looking and only Hard body YJ body I have seen.

Since this will be my first custom build and since this is my first RC vehicle, it will be a learning experience and I may need info as I go but dont figure myself to be dumb so I can figure most things as I go. I will be doing lots of photos and will post ever part I use that I purchase or build to make this project a reality.

For now tires will be the stock 1.9 tires and rims that came on the Losi MRC but later will probably use 1.55 rims and custom cut Flat Irons to look like my real ones. May be a bit wider since I am not going to narrow the Flat Irons so I dont lose the pattern. Then again I may use the Rock Crushers since they look more like the real tires than the Irons. It all depends and will be done at a later time.

j-bird 04-03-2011 09:00 PM

goodluck with this build i'm anxious to see whats instore...."thumbsup"

ittybitty 04-04-2011 08:16 AM

Good to see another SC resident here! I've got a 93 YJ as well...looking forward to your build. Keep an eye on the SC section for upcoming trail rides and get togethers!

Beefalobart 04-04-2011 09:43 AM

Very cool, glad to see more SC based YJ owners. Ok time to make that long 0.3 mile drive to the post office and get the TCS L-Trail chassis. Once Im back I will open the box and take pics of the contents. I will then post them here. The body should be here today or tomorrow but at least I can start on the chassis.

Beefalobart 04-04-2011 10:29 AM

Ok got the chassis and servo mount. When you order these from TCS, you get what it shows in the pictures on the page and not a thing more lol.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2190314_n.jpg


Sorry for the pic quality for some reason my camera doesnt do well inside. It needs better lighting to take good snap shots. I think my phone does better inside and it has a flash lol.

The TCS L-Trail Chassis comes as just the 2 plates. 13 5/8" in length All holes are clean and the finish is black anodized aluminum. It looks to be a very nice looking piece.

For the Servo mount I ordered what the TCS website recomended to use which was the TRAXXAS #2715. It includes the 2 servo mount blocks and 6 different screws with a coarse thread much like computer screws. I guess they will be good enough to work with to mount the servo to these blocks.

Since the body has not got to me just yet I am not going to rip apart my MRC since I know I will need to fabricate some spacer blocks.

Beefalobart 04-04-2011 10:40 AM

Keep all this in mind, I have ZERO experience working on RC vehicles, just what knowlege I have of working on my 1:1 and building it to what you see in the first image.

Ok after some extensive test fitting, just to get an idea of what needs to be made it is for sure that new longer links, longer drive shaft, and spacers on the shocks and motor mount. In order to get even the stock parts from a Losi to work on this chassis you still need the spacers between the frame and motor mounts to get the wishbone upper link to fit and be functional but even then unless you change to an internal spring shock your not going to do much offroad flex wise. Is it still a good frame sure but seems to me it should come with all the spacers needed to make stock Losi parts fit and be usable. And it could state other than showing a pic that the shocks from the Losi are not going to fit correctly.

Most of what Im waiting on is the Body to show up, it should have been here today. I need to make sure my width is correct before I start making spacers and looking for all the tiny nuts and bolts I will need to finish this as a running unit. Body work will be done a little at a time between chassis work.

Beefalobart 04-05-2011 09:50 AM

As usual waiting on parts to come in, doesnt help I pulled a muscle in my back and can barely walk. Soon as the body gets in I will take pics then begin cutting.

Beefalobart 04-05-2011 03:34 PM

Recieved the body today and got right to work on it. I used a Dremel with Flex Shaft, and made the first cuts with a cut off wheel then finished it with a sanding drum. Tossed on a base coat of paint to match the color of my 1:1 and here are the shots.

This is the body sitting on the hood of my 1:1 to show that the color is the exact same. In fact its the same paint, Krylon Fusion Ultra Flat Camo in Khaki.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1772136_n.jpg

I then sat it on top of my Losi just to get an idea of how it will look on the stock 1.9 rims and tires.

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5575120_n.jpg

Beefalobart 04-05-2011 03:38 PM

Body Dimensions.

Width: 7.25"
Height: 5.5"
Length: 15.25"

Stock Losi Axles will need wideners to look right. I would say that adding a total of 1" of width to the Losi Axles will give it a correct look and that extra 1/2" of width will help with the wheel track to keep it more stable.

Beefalobart 04-06-2011 11:04 AM

Can anyone tell me which wideners I need, and where I can get a supply of screws to finish my chassis. I know I need 4 each of 2x15mm, 2x20mm. And 4 each of the 2mm nuts. From there I will need 4 each 6mm spacers with 3mm ID.

Anyone else with this project, what shocks should I be looking at length wise. I know I need internal spring shocks but I want to have some suspension preload to get the suspension to work like a 1:1

I hear the term Droop, but to me droop means the amount one end of your suspension will drop from its normal ride height til it reaches its limit of articulation. Is this the same as the RC term Droop?

Jeep CJ 04-06-2011 11:12 AM

Droop in the rc world is when your shock is completely compressed. There's a spring in the shock so the shock won't unload while climbing. The spring inside pulls the shaft inside the shock. Hopefully you understand what I'm trying to say.

Beefalobart 04-06-2011 09:58 PM

Got the chassis test fit but still need body mounts and cross bars. I also need 4 bolts that are 2mm x 15mm in length.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4628597_n.jpg

I will get another shot up of the chassis soon as it uploads.

Getrag 04-07-2011 01:19 AM

Looking good so far.
I like the way that body looks on the MRC, I'm thinking of doing the same thing to mine. Where did you order the body from? and how much did it cost?

Beefalobart 04-08-2011 10:09 PM

Body came from RPP hobbies, they have the bodies and the other parts that normally come with it seperate. I got the body, headlights, tail lights, and a bit more. They have a tinted glass setup but I dont want tinted so I will make my own windshield later. Check thier website it has tons of good stuff for scale RC. Chassis is the L-Trail from TCS they did a good job on it too.

Cost for body was $45 http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/tam9335171.htm

Ok on todays progress I will show some pics and explain how I did some of the parts. For the spacers, didnt buy any. I made a spacer to go between the motor skid and the chassis from believe it or not Polymer Jewelry clay. They are 7.5mm in width and the clay once baked make a very hard, strong mount that has just enough give to keep from cracking. Time will tell to see how it holds up.

Chassis was made rigid by making cross braces from small diameter aluminum tubing and using 4-40 all thread rod. I used nylock type 3mm nuts to secure the outside of the frame. Just ask and I will take more pics and upload em.

Battery tray and electonics tray was made from some old wire mesh stacking cube things. I cut them to fit and made bends where needed to secure them.

Drive shafts were lengthened using stock female end cut in half then epoxied inside brass tubing. I will later on add a screw on each part to lock it solid but for now its holding.

None of the Losi Stock Parts were cut or modified in any way doing everything done so far. I could if I want put all the Losi parts back on the stock chassis and make it run.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2076259_n.jpg

The above shows the battery tray, its now up and running and after some tweaks it has about 4" of flex and keep in mind this is probably going to change a little when I add a wheel widener just to make it look more realistic. I am making the interior and body mounts but had to stop since I live in a duplex and running a dremel after 10 would be rude.

Beefalobart 04-09-2011 07:10 AM

How am I doing for a first time build?

scale-bronco 04-10-2011 06:15 PM

Looks good for your first build.

here is a mrc leafed yj built by blazerbogger.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-5-scale-rigs/279843-1994-jeep-yj.html

Beefalobart 04-11-2011 10:33 PM

I need to know which wheel wideners to get, I need about 1" wider on both axles. And when I do them on the front Im going to need to fab up a new steering links since being 1" wider I cannot use the stock Losi stuff.

I will be getting the body mounted tomrrow, The interior will not be done for a while since I have not decided on how to make the roll cage. I want to make it look good but be strong. At least strong enough for roll over protection.

Stallion1967 04-11-2011 10:39 PM

The wheel wideners usually go where the hex's are and are basically just an extended hex. No need to change tie rods or axles (sometimes new stub shafts are required) "thumbsup"

pixelnate 06-25-2011 08:23 PM

Did you get any further on this build? I'm building a New Bright TJ Class 1 rig on an MR and this is great inspiration. :thumbsup:

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