Must Have Upgrades for the Twin Hammers

[Alteredgasser57]

Hey guys. No this isn't a question thread, but this is a long freaking post. I've had my twin for at least two years, probably more, and I've put a good chunk of my time and money into her to get her to be the bad ass rig she is today. I have decided to make a list of what I feel are the most essential upgrades and why for this rig. THIS IS ALL MY OWN OPINION. If you agree with me: high five, you're awesome. If you don't agree with me: high five you're still awesome. These are in no particular order. Let the list begin...

1. Radio: Now, the V2 model already has a great radio stock, but the V1 model needs a radio upgrade. Why? the shift servo. Proper end point adjustment on the stock shift servo is crucial, and the V1 stock radio can't get the end points precise enough to keep the servo from burning up, plus every time you jostle the DX3e the dials on top get messed up.

2. The GCM rear truss or like product: This rig has the most epic torque twist ever, and while that shot of of one front wheel a good three inches in the air is cool, it severely hurts performance. The GCM truss does an amazing job of eliminating torque twist. It does not do a whole lot for the rolling issue though.

3. Thick diff oil in the front: this rig is unique for having front IFS and front open diff, while the back is a four link solid axle setup. I recomend 500k diff fluid. I think it gives that happy medium between high speed performance, and crawlability.

4. Upright front shocks: I prefer GCM, but all like products work well to. This upgrade doesn't give you a noticable increase in flex distance, but it gives you better flex. uprights are smoother, more tunable, easier to access, and can be softer, allowing for more front suspension action and better crawlability.

5.Metal gears in the tranny: This is the most important upgrade to the rtr version. the kit version (which is discont. now) already has this needed upgrade. The plastic tranny gears just suck.

6.Threaded shock bodies: if your rig didn't come with threaded shock bodies from the factory, get rid of those ridiculous locking collars. They break to easy and they make it hard to adjust the spring preload.

7. Rear sway bar: this rig is like a threatened possum, it loves to roll over. Tightish corners at a medium slow speed and faster, send this tuck into a barrel roll frenzy. The sway bar does a good job of helping correct the issue. I am using the lightest hot racing sway bar so that I can get that happy medium between crawling and speeding. There are three stiffness options, so which one to use is your preference. I don't use a front sway bar.

8. Aluminum hex adapters: I think these are a good idea, having demolished the rear plastic ones. This upgrade isn't necessary until you break the plastic ones. I'm not sure if the kit version came with plastic or metal hexes, so kit owners may not have this problem.

9. Steering setup: I think we can all agree that the slider rack system is flat out horrible. Get your self a good bell crank setup before you upgrade the stock steering servo. This way you give the servo a fair chance to prove itself.

10. Softer tire foams: The foams in the stock tires are effing stiff. I actually took the stock foams from my scx10 II kit and swapped them into the stock tires on my twin, don't worry I didn't put the stiff foams in my scx 10 II(I actually sealed them so they hold air). The axial foams completely transformed the stock tires into decent meats for me to use and abuse.

That's all I can think of for now. What do you think of my list? Did I forget anything? Or is there something in this list you disagree with? Say so!
Remember this is all my opinion and what I did to my truck.

[masteredfailure72]

Bookmarked, I recently picked up a twin hammer and I’m slowly putting it back together from the pieces it came in, great info for me ! Thanks for sharing


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[Alteredgasser57]

You're very welcome. I'm glad I could be of service! Good luck building you're twin hammers