12-30-2012, 12:21 AM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: US
Posts: 401
| Hibbs' JK Tuber
Hello all, I've been working on my brazing abilities and have improved a good bit. I decided to try my hand at a full chassis. I'm using an old AX-10 I have as the basis so: Axial Axles OD/UD, CVDs BTA steering up front 4WS STRC alum hubs (F/R) VP alum zero-ackerman knuckles (F/R) Hitec 7954SH front ? rear servo Tekin FX-R (Maybe MMP) WP'd 45T brushed or Novak 18.5 BL motor WP'd 2.2 HPI beadlock wheels 2.2 Proline TSLs AX-10 Shocks (for now) Axial Trans steel RRP gears MIP driveshafts NB Jeep JK body (LEDs) I didn't take many pictures up to this point but here is what I've done. I started by bending up the tubing to match the inside contours of the body and the windshield. The lowest edge of the cage follows the bottom edge of the doors but is a bit lower to allow for sliders to be installed later. Here it is as it sits now. I made 2 plates from 1/16" steel sheet metal and used the stock AX-10 plates to get the bolt pattern, then brazed them to a "cradle". It uses the delrin skid I had for the truck with inboard lower link mounts. I tried to copy the link geometry of the AX-10 as closely as I could. Given that this is the first tuber I've ever tried, I didn't want to try to wing it with suspension geometry. Front link mounts: Rear link mounts: Here what I have so far with and without the body: The wheelbase is ungodly long. It's at around 14". Not sure how it's going to perform at that length without Wraith axles to get it wider. I'm having trouble now as the MIP shaft can't reach as far as I have it set in the rear. I will shift some things around to fix it. I am going to try to move the skid plate (and trans) back 2 holes to gain ~5/16" in my favor for the driveshaft. Otherwise I'll need the Wraith ends for the MIPs. Still have to: Get rear end put on with "sport back" angle from cage top to back Shock mounts F/R Fix driveshaft Add in tube for doors where bottom of windows are Cut top of truck off except windshield Pinch rear end? Tons of body work Install LEDs Sliders Front bumper with D bar and winch plate Rear bumper Any thoughts? |
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01-01-2013, 09:12 AM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: US
Posts: 401
| Re: Hibbs' JK Tuber
I was able to get a little bit more done. The shock mounts are done and the rear hoop is on to support the rear of the truck. I'm not going for a pinch. I just need to add in detail pieces like the bottom of the windows and the rear of the cage needs the sport back finished up. Then it's bumpers and bodywork. Found some stainless steel paint and I'm probably going to paint the cage with it. Here is how it sits now, you can see the rear hoop: Rear shock mounts: Front shock mounts: Body on shots: Thanks for looking. |
01-05-2013, 01:20 AM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: US
Posts: 401
| Re: Hibbs' JK Tuber
I finished a lot of chassis work and got the body filed down much better. It mostly needs the hole in the rear gate patched and some bondo on the scratches, then paint. Here is the front bumper I made: The sliders: The rear cage work: one more shot: I feel like it could look a lot better, but not sure what it needs. I will have to put an interior of some sort in it. Maybe with the chassis and body painted it will come together more. That and interior and wheel wells. Might look good then... Any thoughts? |
01-05-2013, 04:34 AM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Worthing
Posts: 96
| Re: Hibbs' JK Tuber
yeah I think an interior would really make a difference that and like you said wheel wells. But fantastic work though!
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