The Trade Rig.

[gunder463]

So i have been trading with all these amazing guys on RCC and collecting parts for a new build im going to call the trade build because well, most of the parts i traded for!

here is the chassis, thanks to McCrawlin Slow, wheels from ScorpionKing and tranny, and more to come here are the pics of some of the stuff i got and will be running on this rig/ parts list,

Chassis+wheels and tires+tranny{rc4wd 2 speed}




Here are the main goodies ill be running,

Gmade 93mm airation shocks,
2 speed tranny,
MIP's
D44 Front Axle
D44 Rear axle,
Gripfab V1 lockers
OD/UD gears,
VP light bar,
SS Links
custom interior,
Tekin RS gen2 and a 13.5T revtech motor or a 3800KV 4x12 SCT motor not sure yet what ill want.
Savox servo,
CC BEC
Swaybars,

Should be a fun build. more to come soon as parts get here!

[gunder463]

The first D44 to come in was the front, the rear should be right behind it, i ordered the one after the other, but heres pics of before i opened anything.

[gunder463]

front assembled. waiting on lockers for them so poser pics,

[Bulldog]

Don't expect the Axles to hold up too well. RC4WD parts are scale, but when it comes to durability, they just don't have a very good record. Scale crawling and trail runs...just fine, but a decent amount of power and tough terrain will eat them up. FYI.

[4RunnerKid]

the D44 axles are built around Axial diffs and gears. i don't think we'll be seeing as much breakage with these as we have with past RC4WD units

OP: nice parts list, i'll be watching

[vinnyphx]

side note...yer keyboard glows green? where can i get one. Digging the build too. I've read mixed reviews on the d44's curious to see how the hold up under the steel chassis

[gunder463]

Yeah lol its back lit with green leds it was a pretty expensive little bugger 129$ its a razer black widow ultimate. Nd Thanks everyone for the kind words, im worried about the axles durability too, i hope thy hold up. but i suppose ill be my own test subject haha.

[comcastboy]

dam it looks like its going to be heavy

[gunder463]

Originally Posted by comcastboy

dam it looks like its going to be heavy

im hoping to keep the weight down as much as possible,

[gunder463]

well and im trying to be at right around 6.5 to 7 lbs.

[sam63]

Good start! With those wheels, that chassis and tranny I think you will be more like 8-9 lbs if you do an interior and make it a real scaler. I know what a 6.5 lbs class 3 looks like is all I'm saying

[gunder463]

well your right haha, i probably have 5 lbs worth of aluminum and steel without the motor and battery lol.

[gunder463]

Originally Posted by sam63

Good start! With those wheels, that chassis and tranny I think you will be more like 8-9 lbs if you do an interior and make it a real scaler. I know what a 6.5 lbs class 3 looks like is all I'm saying

however i may switch to a scx tranny and SLW's but i kinda have a knack for bending SLW's so im liking these big metwads of rims. i have like 2 or three sets of SLW's that 2 of the rims are bent its kinda sad nice rims just cant handle a beating.

[gunder463]

sorry to keep posting in here but if anyone has any tips for me id much appreciate it. this will be my first real solid rig i think. my ultra bouncer was kinda a feeler to get started this will be the first real project.

[BigSki]

gunder463, what's your overall opinion of the D44 axle so far? Does it have a good fit and finish? I like their use of AX-10 R&P's, I'm not sure about having to use rc4wd axle shafts, they don't have a good track record.

[gunder463]

Originally Posted by BigSki

gunder463, what's your overall opinion of the D44 axle so far? Does it have a good fit and finish? I like their use of AX-10 R&P's, I'm not sure about having to use rc4wd axle shafts, they don't have a good track record.

honestly the fit together and look great the only thing im worried about is bending the where the bubes go into the axle theres not much meat holding them in there and the screws you HAVE to use have literally 3 threads on them because there are such tight tolerances due to the narrow tubes, but they feel nice in your hand and i had two lead bricks on the axles with the wheels on them and they were holing fine so that gave me confidence, i didnt want push it and bend it with three. im just interested to see how well the internals hold up when i get them put together the straps that hold the bearings are mighty thin wich dosent really make me happy. im afraid a pro4 with 4s and enough torque you could rip em. by twisting the diff out of place basicly but the shafts are BEEFY i was pretty happy with those but they do look like there made from really really hard steel wich makes me worry that under power there gonna want to shatter. however steering angles can get pretty extreme in my opinion.

[Bulldog]

A note about steering angles. Just because the knuckles can turn up to 70 degrees doesn't mean you can run them at 70 degrees. In most cases, you'll start to get binding at around 45-50. The more you push it, the higher the chance you'll start to get damage. 70 degree steering setups are possible, but only with highly modified parts.

[TSK]

Just think, you'll have a full solid axled rig AND and it's IFS twin in no time

[gunder463]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Just think, you'll have a full solid axled rig AND and it's IFS twin in no time

Im more excited about that one :P im just waiting to make a thread to see what all i wanna do to it besides paint,

[gunder463]

Originally Posted by Bulldog

A note about steering angles. Just because the knuckles can turn up to 70 degrees doesn't mean you can run them at 70 degrees. In most cases, you'll start to get binding at around 45-50. The more you push it, the higher the chance you'll start to get damage. 70 degree steering setups are possible, but only with highly modified parts.

mighty fine point you have there bulldog, i think that you could maybe get 50 out of these at the most for all practical purposes, wich i think isnt bad.