My Wreckluse SLOW build and question thread

[arevir]

Hi so far what I gathered from other is that it flip fairly easy so to help with that some have extended the WB I was going to buy new links anyway since I have the old dingo kit for the swap. I believe it have 11.3wb.
I was going to buy the axial rubicon links 12.3wb but it seem most are using 13+wb.
Also to help with the tip over you extent the front or rear?

So looking for links I saw the wraith trailing arm would that be a good or bad choice? double or single shock?
Wraith Trailing Arms, Blue Monkey RC
I be getting the rest of my links from R2J

I be ordering the Gmade XD Piggyback Shocks, what length for front and back, are this one a good choice?
Gmade XD Piggyback Shock 93mm (2)

also would the spur cover fit?
Thanks!

1.9 sure are small


Donor kit

[Postclanker]

In my opinion, you are wasting your money buying links.

Figure out what axles you want to run, tire and wheel size, axle or chassis mounted servo, wheel base...lot's of factors are going to determine what link length you need. Then make your own links...they are simple enough.

I run a 13.5" WB on wraith axles....2.2 wheels and tires

Let me find my build thread, you'll get some ideas

[Postclanker]

Check this thread out for some ideas

Clanker's Wreckluse

[crazy nick]

Awesome! Subscribing. Honestly I will probably never buy links again. They are waaay to easy and cheap to make. As beat up as they get, no need for bling as far as I'm concerned.

[arevir]

Originally Posted by Postclanker

In my opinion, you are wasting your money buying links.

Figure out what axles you want to run, tire and wheel size, axle or chassis mounted servo, wheel base...lot's of factors are going to determine what link length you need. Then make your own links...they are simple enough.

I run a 13.5" WB on wraith axles....2.2 wheels and tires

Let me find my build thread, you'll get some ideas

I was thinking of buying those wraith link I don't think I be able to make those with the shock mounted in the center of the link design. But now that I look at it the shock might hit the lower tube of the frame if I go that route might have to cut the frame in that area.
Would you say the link you have on the back are about equal in length to wraith ones?
I will use the stock shocks for now and later buy those gmade.
You might have to school me on building links what tube and where to buy and how to attach the link ends.

Also would you say the tranny spur cover fit or it won't. Cause that way I save the money since I have the old kit, before they started coming with the cover.

I think it would be and interesting build I have never use styrene. I have some inspiration for the interior but let's see if I have the talent.

Ps I be using stock scx10 axles with 2.2 super swampers, cms kit. WB dunno I was thinking stock honcho but as your build you found is better a little longer.

What you say is the biggest batt you can fit. I don't have any at the moment to try out. I will stay with 7.4v lipo that way I can order a pair.

[arevir]

Originally Posted by crazy nick

Awesome! Subscribing. Honestly I will probably never buy links again. They are waaay to easy and cheap to make. As beat up as they get, no need for bling as far as I'm concerned.

Thank you sir hopefully my build won't disappoint, I still don't have a paint theme but like the tittle say it would be slow.

Actually I was not thinking of the bling factor more on the convenient as they would be ready to use as I haven't build links before.

But is all good that why I'm going slow I have rush other rc kits before then I end wasting a lot of money.

[Postclanker]

Originally Posted by arevir

I was thinking of buying those wraith link I don't think I be able to make those with the shock mounted in the center of the link design. But now that I look at it the shock might hit the lower tube of the frame if I go that route might have to cut the frame in that area.
Would you say the link you have on the back are about equal in length to wraith ones?
I will use the stock shocks for now and later buy those gmade.
You might have to school me on building links what tube and where to buy and how to attach the link ends.

Also would you say the tranny spur cover fit or it won't. Cause that way I save the money since I have the old kit, before they started coming with the cover.

I think it would be and interesting build I have never use styrene. I have some inspiration for the interior but let's see if I have the talent.

Ps I be using stock scx10 axles with 2.2 super swampers, cms kit. WB dunno I was thinking stock honcho but as your build you found is better a little longer.

What you say is the biggest batt you can fit. I don't have any at the moment to try out. I will stay with 7.4v lipo that way I can order a pair.

I will help you with the links, as far as the lengths go, I couldn't tell you if they are the same as the wraith...my bet is your length will be a custom length like mine were...it just depends on your WB, shock choice, and pinion angle.

Make your WB a little longer than the honcho
I found my tranny and spur cover fit with a little modification of my interior.
The shock mounts should not interfere with your links at all, if they do, you have something wrong...you should be able to make all your links. 7/32" threaded rod, found at Home Depot ....1/4" aluminum sleeve or 1/4" break line to cover the rod, and some revo rod ends. DON'T CUT YOUR CHASSIS

I never did any styrene work until I did mine either....you can do it. A little practice goes a long way.

In the beginning I only had 2s batteries and the big fat ones. I made a bracket to fit them right in front of the dash under the hood. I've since changed that, but there are actually several ways to do it...depending on where you have the room and where you want your weight.

I'll be glad to help as much as I can...Ask away and study my build thread, lot's of your questions can be answered there.

[drywallguy]

Your getting advice from one of the better Wreckluse builds here.
The BMC trailing arms for the Wraith might just work. I have them on another chassis and I'll measure it tomorrow to let you know. They do move the lower shock mount up a bit..

[mcrawlinslow]

ya ive always bought links and just started recently building my own and have to say wish i would have figured that out a long time ago

[mcrawlinslow]

Oh hey let me know if you ever wanna sell that jk body

[Postclanker]

thanks Drywall...that was nice to hear...

[arevir]

Originally Posted by mcrawlinslow

Oh hey let me know if you ever wanna sell that jk body

The holes for the body are off I dint took the time to measure when I cut them, I was actually thinking of hacking it for this build, at least some parts.

I tried to find the 7/32 rod online but no luck is there another measurement equal to that, The nearest Home depot to me is about 4 hours. Any major store is far.
I do most of my shopping online.


I have something in mind for this build that I haven't seen in any other wreckluse build, lets see if it works out.

[Postclanker]

Sorry Arevir...that original post should have been 8/32" all thread rod

Sorry about that...you should be able to find that. Have you tried McMaster Carr?

[arevir]

NP no wonder why it was kind of hard to find.

I dint know about that page it seem plenty easy to find items.
would it matter which one to get?
Type 316 Stainless Steel Threaded Studs and Rods - more corrosion resistant than those made from 18-8 stainless steel. They're also resistant to chemicals and solvents mildly magnetic
Zinc-Plated Low-Strength Steel Threaded Studs and Rods - rust and weather resistance.
Brass Threaded Studs and Rods - resist rust and atmospheric corrosion. They're also nonmagnetic

Tube
Allstar ALL48326 25' 1/4" Zinc Coated Steel Coiled Tubing Brake Line : Amazon.com : Automotive
or something from McMaster-Carr

wow it even goes to wall thickness, 0.02 or 0.035? for the rod to fit.

also do the revo end go in easy or would I need a 8-32 drill bit to help.

[Postclanker]

Either one of the threaded rod would be ok....I don't think you need any special plating ....make sure your sleeve material is at least 1/4" or bigger Inside Diameter so it slides over the rod. The thickness won't matter much except for weight and strength....depends on what you want.

Sometimes it's hard to get the revo started on the threaded rod, but once you do and make sure it's straight, it self threads right on and is pretty strong. If you have trouble getting it started, try reaming the outer lip of the revo with an exacto blade...just to get it started. If you use a drill it will open it up too much and the rod can pull out of the rod end.

[arevir]

thanks I will order those asap I was messing with it today and the link are even longer now because the wreckluse skid plate is longer, It measure around 15'' so of course the drive shaft are super short for that.
either way I think I be ordering some new drive shaft you guy are using the wraith due to the WB? the stock ones that I have are about 5.5'' eye to eye.
red line is the center axle truss more or less
was wondering what angle should the axle be, but if I use your length it should come to the right angle.

also you guys know which drive shaft fit with the spur cover.

you still using these measurement for the links:
Front upper 4.25"
Front lower 3.85"
Rear upper 5"
Rear lower 4.5"

I tried to fit the hand bro CMS but no luck is made for the C frame of the SCX10
So i came out with this

is flush with the frame.
wonder if is going to be to high giving a bad angle.
I hope the hood cover it, if I end up using this setup.

anyway I ordered a servo 4 link plate just in case
New STRC SCX10 Black Aluminum Front or Rear 4 Link Servo Plate STA30485BK | eBay
are you guys using the 3 link up front?
I might have to order a new upper axle housing since I cut the plate support when I used the 4 link on the front.

[crazy nick]

Looking great so far. Gotta say wish I could afford one of these chassis' s . Just such a cool design.

[drywallguy]

Those bent links are too long. You shouldn't need to mount your shocks that far back.
The Wraith trailing arms are 3 3/4" without ends. Probably too long.
The recommended link sizes are here. Wreckluse Feedback, Support & FAQ. I fine tuned mine from there

[Postclanker]

I agree with drywallguy , those links are way too long.
The thread he posted is a good starting point for link lengths....and my lengths probably won't work for you either since I used wraith axles. Keep in mind most every Wreckluse build is unique and will probably have different lengths.

Shortening those lengths will bring your rear axle back under the frame...or at least closer to the rear. Also you won't have the shaft issue not being long enough. Mine sits right under the end of the chassis.

[Postclanker]

I wouldn't order any new shafts until you get your wheelbase set and your links right. Then you'll know what you need. Traxxas makes a "max shaft"...

You will need a panhard setup for a CMS.....read up on how that needs to go. I personally am not a fan, but a lot of guys on here are.