A different kind of Bomber...
 

Decided I wanted to build something and the Bomber is my only RC at the moment so its getting a makeover again :lmao: While searching onlinemetals.com one day I saw they sold DOM tubing in 1/4" x .035 wall thicknesses. $50 later, I had a few sticks in my hand. Plan so far is this.. Remove the stock Axial Bomber cage and replicate the chassis out of 1/4" DOM to the best of my ability. Seeing as I haven't used my TIG welder much since I bought it, I felt it would be a good opportunity to get some machine time in.

I started building off the sub frame. After looking at the Axial chassis for an extended period of time, I decided to build the toughest single tube first. Basically build the chassis from the bottom up. This tube has 12 bends in it :ror: It did take a little tweaking to the driver side after this picture was taken but you get the idea "thumbsup" Its just about dead on center now.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Next I wanted to build the sliders since they seemed to be the next step in beginning to build the chassis upwards. The door bars and main chassis tubes all mount to the sliders. Since these are sufficiently melted, I may finish out all the bottom tubes first before continuing as some of them might be very difficult to reach with the TIG torch when I start adding more up top. This will do for now though "thumbsup" Don't mind the extra holes on the main chassis tube, they will get welded and ground smooth. That was part of tweaking the chassis more to the driver side to center it.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Just to show the difference between the Harbor Freight bender and a better quality bender with a tighter radius and a much shorter leg so less tube is wasted.

Also just ordered 4 feet of 3/16" x .035 DOM and 4 feet of 1/4" x .028 DOM in hopes of saving a little weight. I plan to make the parts that will see abuse out of 1/4" x .035. Stringers like window tubes will get 3/16 and structural tubes that might see a load but not a direct hit to rocks will get 1/4" x .028 tube. Can't wait to get more done!

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Got a little more done today. Sliders are done, ready to start moving upward in the chassis "thumbsup"

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Great start so far. Look forward to the progress updates.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

"thumbsup" I have not even attempted to TIG any tubing yet, I wouldn't even know where to begin on such a small dia tube.

What sort of tubing bender are you using, it seems to work very well.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Up to this point I've used this bender. While it works, its not the greatest by any means and is a little difficult to put 2 bends close to one another.

https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-bender-3755.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/media/...mage_18464.jpg

For the remainder of the build I'll be using one similar to this.

https://resources.cleanitsupply.com/...SCO/150518.JPG

Thanks for the feedback! Hoping to get more done on it this weekend "thumbsup"

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Having seen on IG the tube work you did to your taco, this should turn out awesome. "thumbsup"

You should look into something like this: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGFW4

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

I hope so! I like to think I have an eye for detail work. Is that a bender? See even I see that as limiting only because sometimes you need to bend in 2 different planes and that bottom plate would potentially interfere with a bend right next to it. I also think any tighter radius than 9/16 will flatten out the tube too much. DOM is a bit tougher to bend than other tube because its made for building structural items. I think the bender I've got will work fine "thumbsup"

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Few more updates. Added some structural tubes tonight. Don't mind the wonky tube at the very back, this DOM is stiff but not too stiff such that I can't bend it into the perfect position. The bottom A and B pillars are a little closer than the Axial version but it should be easy enough to trim out some new skins out of aluminum that are a little shorter in length. Height is almost spot on :twisted: Other than the A and B uprights, the chassis is only 1/16 off everywhere else. Having fun building this one!

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Una mas prior to welding

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Had to order a couple more sticks of DOM. So far I'm over $100 just in material alone! Oh well, the end result will be worth it "thumbsup"

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Very nice work so far."thumbsup"

Tubing is definitely expensive so it's no wonder why these are so expensive.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

You should look at your local metal supply store if you have one. Sometimes you can get lucky and find cut lengths in the scrap area for very cheap. I got 2 pieces that were about 4-5 feet for $3.

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Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

I tryed that with my wraith but by the time i was done i ended up with a 5th scale wraith lol

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Thanks! I tried to keep it scale with the 1/4" tubing. The stock chassis is .275" diameter and 1/8 of 1.75" DOM is .218". Close enough :lmao: Is yours made of solid rod or hollow? How much does it weigh? And what material did he use on it? Looks really nice!

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Yeah I should. The metal itself isn't much, $9 for 4 feet of it but shipping kills the deal.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Yeah. I agree about the shipping being expensive. Check out Zoro, I bought my stainless for my cage there. I paid $5 shipping for 1 6ft piece.

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Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

They have plenty of stainless but no A513 DOM

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Everyone likes pictures right? Finished off the other side and started tying it all together. Almost out of argon on the welder :roll:

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Very nice work, general. "thumbsup""thumbsup" I just found this thread by accident. Buying material online definitely hoses you down. My local metal supplier had roughly 70 feet of 1/4" x .065 or .058 (#30 drill bit fits perfectly inside) dom I scored for $15, in 3 foot sections. Picked up about 100' of 1/4" x .065 HR tube for $21. I continue to buy it whenever I find a deal, just because I can't pass it up. I think I could build about 20 cages with what I have on hand, go fast rigs that take a beating thus the heavy wall. I am curious to see how well your thinner wall material will hold up once complete. Strictly a crawler or some go fast trail time as well?
That pic with the side panel and the coved notches is epic. Someone stated earlier that the cages are expensive because of material costs. Ok. Its actually the labor. For those who haven't built a cage, oh my, these are labor intensive, lots of hours. Are you able to keep this rig symmetrical thus far?? Put the cage lacing in last to save yourself some headaches. Keep up the great work, its an inspiration to scratch build.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Thanks! As I mentioned before, the thinner wall tube will only be used for lacing; stuff that won't see direct hits from rocks so it should be ok. Its noticeably lighter and a little tougher to weld since it melts faster though. The 3/16 tube will be used for lacing for visibility reasons from the driver seat, if that makes sense :ror: It's pretty close to symmetrical. I'm literally eyeballing everything so if you look close you can see inconsistencies but oh well. The only other difficult tubes that need to be done are the A/Roof/C pillars since its all 1 piece with a roll in the center and they're all in different axis I think. I'm trying to do the lacing as I go because once all the tubes are in, it will be difficult to access some of the areas.

It will be a crawler/go fast rig. At one point I was literally driving the wheels off it every time I took it out so I bought a Tekno Truggy for fast and retired the Bomber to crawling/lightweight getting it. Hell, if it dents, more scale points :lmao:

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A suggestion if you're pondering the roof line. To get your roof line on axis, bend the A pillar first, measure the offset difference between the A pillar and the C pillar. Square off the bender the offset amount of the A pillar. Just make sure you make a left and a right so you only have to bend them once!! Or use a protractor like the 1:1 guys do.

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Yup I always start on one end. I have a small protractor I made out of aluminum and a nut and bolt to get the angles close enough "thumbsup" The real question is how should I finish coat the chassis? Sand and metal protect it like the real chassis? Powdercoat?

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I don't have the skills to make my own so I ponied up to have a professional do mine. The conversations we had made me realize the talent, time and cost to do one of these.

With that said, if I had done it,my go to color is Orange so the cage would be that color and I have a white scheme for the Barndog panels. I didn't do the cage and can't possibly think of covering up the joints and cage work with any color. So, I am soda blasting mine and clear powder coating it. Your joints look perfect and I would want to show that of with colors elsewhere. Just my .02

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I wish my TIG welds looked as good as the notches did :lmao: I'll probably sand it and coat it with a rust preventive and see how long it lasts. Usually doing that results in a lot more upkeep so it stays nice looking but we'll see.

Thought I'd roll the axles underneath to get an idea how it'll look and it looks... very similar to the plastic cage "thumbsup" As you can see, symmetry is almost spot on. It would take a very calculated eye-crometer to notice inconsistencies.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

When I was bored with the Bomber during summer time I slapped a Proline Toyota on it. In order to get the proportions correct I shortened the front links 1/2" or so. Since I'm now going back to no body, I'm ordering the full Vanquish link set since no one seems to sell the front links only :| Oh well, at least RPP will get them here quick. Also ordering some Gearhead tabs for whatever I might need to bolt to the chassis.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

Figure I should update this since I got more done on it the last couple days. Got the top main tubes done which turned out pretty good! All I have left to do thats going to be "fun" are the tubes just above the rear axle but nothing like what I've done so far, should be cake. Need more argon for the TIG :roll: I included pictures of some of the notches that need to be done. The TIG really doesn't like big gaps to fill, the tighter the better. Also included a pic from the rear showing the symmetry I've got going on. All precision eyeball technique :ror:

Buddy gave me some RC4WD Kings for the build too "thumbsup"

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

That's looking great - excellent tube work

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Awesome!! Have you thought about different ways to increase wheel travel, particularly up front, before you weld the rest of the tubing/shock mounts into it? You really got me wanting to do one of these things now after seeing your build. Props for the encouraging motivation, for me anyhow. "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"
.025 mig hard wire works great for filler rod if you aren't already using it, melts before your tubes do to fill your small gaps. How much does it weigh now?

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Thanks! Yeah I'm hoping I can use the shocks I got and keep them under the hood. They are shorter than stock which is good. The only way to really increase wheel travel up front is to put the shocks on a trailing arm and I don't think I'm going to go that crazy with it. Just build some mounts like the stock plastic chassis and call it good. In the pic I had the shocks mounted on the very top and they'd stick up way too high if I put them there.

I am using .035 solid core MIG wire for filler and its awesome! 1/16 filler is way too big for tiny stuff like this.

Picked up a glass cup for the TIG welder today, time to see what the hype is all about "thumbsup"

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Got a bunch done yesterday. Worked on it for about 6 hours :lmao: Thinking this chassis might look even better with SCX10 axles and 1.9s...8) Will be getting the rest of the tube work done tomorrow then its time to fully weld everything then start figuring out how to mount panels. I think I'm going to have the whole chassis bead blasted then coated in Steel-It stainless steel coating. Should turn out pretty good "thumbsup"

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

As small as it is you can powder coat it in a toaster oven. A Harbor Freight gun is maybe $100 or less, then an old oven. 1000s of choices for color out there. HF has red, black, and white. Maybe yellow. I’ve done a few 1:1 engine parts over the years. ColumbiaCoatings, IIRC, has a good selection.


Either way, I think it’ll look good.

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Looking awesome! Now to finish weld? Hope you have a flex torch! How are you going to mount the body panels? If this were about 6th or 7th scale, I found a source for the appropriate sized dzus fasteners. Expensive as heck, but bad to the bone. Steel-it is common for 1:1 so you're styling, but isn't it like $50 a can? Plans B and C could possibly be rattle can clear (choose your finish from matte to luster) or linseed oil (flammable, can spontaneously combust so use cautiously) which will also darken the tube colors a bit but easy no rust protection and also cheap. Plan D is car wax. Scotch bright the chassis if you want uniform appearance and apply your choice of finish. Any changes/repairs or alterations are easily touched up that way. Most all 1:1 race vehicles are raw or clear coated anyhow so you can see any cracks in the chassis much easier, especially if you're shooting for that full race look.

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Flanged M3 nylon lock nuts for panels. The flange will give you something to weld to.

Re: A different kind of Bomber...
 

love this idea, I'm currently fitting a MJ comanche body to my bomber because I was bored with it. How did you go about getting the side mounting posts and did you run into them snagging?

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Yeah my Lincoln Square Wave TIG 200 came with a flex head torch. Have to get pretty creative with holding the chassis in my vice and orienting the torch in such a way thats comfortable to weld. I did some finish welds and some places are so tight I won't be able to weld them but the chassis should still be plenty strong enough. 1/4 turn fasteners are nice! I got some of them for the center console on my 1:1 build. Another thing I have to figure out is a battery holder since the stock one isn't going to work. Should be easy enough I think. Oh also shock mounts :roll:

I think Steel-It is only about $20 a can, other companies make stainless aerosols too so I have some options. Best part about those coatings is you can weld over them should any cracks arise. I don't think I've seen a Bomber coated in Steel-It, they are almost all raw metal. Only reason I don't want to do raw is my TIG welds are less than stellar :lmao:

Got more done on the chassis today, just the V bars behind the driver and passenger heads and tubes connecting the rear bumper to the sub frame. These King shocks are going to work out pretty nice! No pictures from todays progress unfortunately.

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Not a bad idea. I bought some Gear Head tabs from RPP I'll probably use in some places and will probably pick up M3 nuts for panels. Only problem I have with the nylock is once you weld a nylock, the nylon is usually toast so I will just use standard M3 nuts.

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I drilled out the stock panel holes in the chassis and threaded in some studs then cut down stock body posts and threaded them onto the studs after drilling a hole in them. It actually worked out really well because the Toyota body is wider than the Bomber chassis so the side mounts sucked the body in tight. I don't recall having issues snagging them but I didn't use it much when the body was on.

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Ya that crossed my mind too, but I figured 2 tacks shouldn't kill the nylon? Or will they need more then that to hold?

Killer work though! Can I be next in line for one? Lol. :mrgreen: