|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
06-08-2008, 09:42 AM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: san pancho, ca
Posts: 224
| anyone ever move there fnt steering rod higher on there AX10?
I have read a few low mounting servo posts...but this did not change the steering rod location from stock. When I look at the back of my steering servo, I have about 3/16" clearance before hitting the nylocks from my 4link. If the servo was moved up and back, this would allow for the steering rod to be moved up...providing for a better approach angle? possibly even protecting the servo arm a bit more thanks, manny |
Sponsored Links | |
06-08-2008, 09:59 AM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Sidney, OH
Posts: 190
| |
06-08-2008, 10:22 AM | #3 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Temecula
Posts: 52
|
I did the same thing browncoat did but my servo is flipped 180.
|
06-08-2008, 11:20 AM | #4 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Seattle
Posts: 28
|
I used the spacers from the kit that space the upper links off the chassis to bring up my steering link and some lexan sheets under my servo to bring it up too. Works good, I just had to get some longer screws to attach the steering links to the arms. I'll try to get some pics of it later...
|
06-08-2008, 12:17 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: in a basement in Kalispell, MT
Posts: 857
|
My attempt at improving steering. Gained correct ackerman, but if flex's a lot. Servo horn still hits when approaching a vertical accent. |
06-08-2008, 10:59 PM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: SSF
Posts: 1,614
|
Here's what I did today Manny. Did a search here for steering and found a thread that one person added some good info (too lazy to hunt it down for proper props, but thanks). The key notes I got from the info was a stub shaft mod. Cut .035" off the coupling face and cut the inside angle back the same amount. The first thing to bind is the outter stub shaft's skirt maxing out on the inner shaft. The gain is about 10 degrees more turn. Without this mod my EPA settings were 73% left and 81% right. Next was clearing the tie rod/diff interference. Simple fix, I cut stock link material into seven pieces after drilling the tubing with a .125" drill. Five pieces are .250" long, three fit atop the axle, spacing the servo mount up. The other two space up the tie rod. Because of my servo/batt mount I made the other two spacers 1.0" long and they support the mount outboarding the diff. These two pieces are threaded 3mm on each end. I threaded set screws into the axle lockout holes, screwed the spacers onto them and then used countersunk screws for the top fasteners. This next picture shows the details better. Also the swing point of my servo arm is .875". The 1.0" spacer on the driver's side is in the rear most lockout hole, otherwise the drag link/tie rod bolt would hit it limiting steering (if it were in the forward hole). I don't have before pictures but I do have numbers. I listed my EPAs above, Now they are 100% right and left, could actually go more but I'm happy with 100. I'm not concerned with raising my mount and COG, the benefits are much better with great steering. Last edited by JeepinDoug; 06-08-2008 at 11:02 PM. |
| |